Questions on Sirio S12 SE Blue Head, Threaded Crank
 

I am trying to rebuild this but am struggling.

1. Can anyone provide me with a link to an exploded parts manual?
2. I pretty sure that the piston to sleeve clearances are poor, there is very little compression and no pinch when cold; I'm told should there be, is that right?
3. When cold, fuel bubbles out around the exhaust port when cranking by hand and it's easy to take it right over TDC with my finger on the flywheel. Are these signs of wear?
4. I can wobble the conrod slightly when I place it on the crank, is this worn too and if so, what can be done to fix it?
5. It runs at power but hates to idle; is this a sign of wear.
6. Where's the best place to buy spares?
7. Should I bother rebuilding, I don't mind the engineering but I also don't want to throw good money after bad.

Thanks

I just orderd an STI Evo 3 and wanted to know if I can use Novarossi plugs on it? Also whats the procedure for break-in on this engine?

Thanks.

comparing a Vr12plus and Sirio pipe into Sirio motor....
any big different between them ?

thanks ;)

Biggest difference is run time with the Skyline besting the Sirio. The Sirio pipe will keep revving at the top end of the rpm range but bottom to mid the Skyline has a lot more snap. IMHO the Skyline is a better pipe overall.

thanks for the advised....
guess Sirio pipe is more suitable on big track less techical wherelse skyline more suitable to small techical track...
hope i get it right... :smile:

i would stick to sirio plugs if you can get some.
to break it in, just use josh cyrul's break in method found at cefx.net

New Sirio .12 Evo3 Break In Problems
 

I have a new Sirio .12 Evo3 - model S12T3AF 3-port, Rear Exhaust, Rotary Carb.

The carb has 2 needles and a slow running speed screw.

1. There is NO DATA AT ALL on settings for this engine, not in the box, not on the Sirio web site - UNFORGIVEABLE.
2. The engine was SOOO tight that it made juddering scraping noises and could only be turned over using an Allen wrench even though I had placed oil in the engine - I actually filmed this in case it was an indicator of a bad engine.
3. I can only get the engine to start and run with the LSN out 0.5 to 1 turn which seems crazy low. The HSN is set to 2.5 turns.

The engine is difficult to start, cuts out easily and seems to be running VERY rich with smoke from the exhaust when running but it struggles to build up any rpm which I suspect is due to it still being ridiculously tight. Although I have about 4 tanks of fuel though it, it often gets locked at TDC when I have it on the starter box and I have to free it with an Allen wrench. I have been running it for 3-4 minutes at a time and temps never get over 200F. I make sure that it's at BDC when I let it cool down.

Anyone with suggestions or ideas on how to proceed, settings, etc?

how many tanks have you run through it?
on a bench youll need 2-3 tanks before touching the needles,or in a car 5-6 tanks , top end is usually extremely rich , in some cases ive had to turn the top end in 2-3 turns after run in process to get it close,
all motors are tight when new and the all make that tight sound for the first few tanks
ive had and use sirios and have never had a problem, there the best motor by far :D

I have 3 or 4 tanks through so far, I probably need to stick with a few more from what you say.

Thanks but what are the initial recommended settings for an EVO3?

Seems like I am worrying too much, I will stick with a few more tanks. My last Sirio which I picked up as part of a used package was sweet. I have a new OS CVR and it was nowhere near as tight as this Sirio at first.

Blown sv had some good points to keep in mind... First thing, is there a hobby shop in your area that you can go to for some 1 on1 help?? That's the first thing you should do. It's very important to never rush or do the wrong things while trying to break-in a motor... Sirio's are some of the fastest motors you can buy and the manuel goes through the break-in process step by step... One thing to have while breaking in a new motor is a hair dryer... Heat the motor up with the hair dryer and it'll be much easier to start up... Also, when the motor is new and the carb is set with the factory settings, the motor will and should be rich... ie... full of fuel... The extra fuel and oil will help the motor break in correctly and for the metals to Seat properly... If your motor should lock up, clear out the unused fuel and use a hair dryer to add you in starting the motor... Read the manuel from front to back... And break in the motor as per the Sirio manuel only. It may take up to 10-15 tanks of fuel before the motor starts to loosen's up if not more, and that's a good thing. You never want a motor that's broken in on the 5th tank... Again, take your time... Rushing things will only hurt your motor and for what??? $200.00 plus dollars is alot of money to throw away by doing the wrong things... Again, if there is a lhs near by, take it to them and get some help that way. You'll be able to figure things out much better with someone that know's what they are doing right there in front of you then chasing tips gathered on the internet... .02 and Good luck. :nod:

RC_Alan

I'm sure Tim Johnson of Kyosho USA, know's the base line settings and will get you going in the right direction... :nod:

RC_Alan

Thanks for all the help so far. I just ran another couple of tanks through and I do believe it's getting a wee bit looser but it's a pig to keep idling; if I increase the low speed needle it stalls, if I decrease the low speed needle, it stalls, if I increase the high speed needle it stalls, if I decrease the high speed needle, it stalls, that makes me wonder if I have the wrong plug in it. Alos the fact that anything over 1.5 turn out on the LSN and it won't run seems plain screwy to me. Reading the manual is great advice except that there really is no manual worth speaking of and what there is I have read - it has such gems in it as... "A PREVIOUS CARBURETTOR CHECK LET OBTAIN THE OPTIMUM CARBURATION BY A MINIMUM ROTATING OF BASE AND SPEED NEEDLES." (Sirio's capitalization, not mine). I have also checked out their web site and looked at the Kyosho web site - no joy. Kyosho/Sirio could do themselves a lot of good simply by getting someone to write them a reasonable,basic, English manual. One that includes such advanced topics as:

1. Recommended glow plugs
2. Needle settings to get you going

I currently have an OS P7 medium plug installed, obviously a turbo plug. Air temperatures here are currently in the low 70s F (low 20s C). There does not appear to be any fuel leaks around the plug. Any info on what others are using as a plug in this Sirio EVO3 engine would be useful.

I'm not trying to rush this but I also don't want to grope my way in the dark. Maybe this will end up being a great engine if I can find or figure out the right plug and right needles settings. Compared with the OS CVR that I just broke in (plug and great instructions supplied with engine), this Sirio is a pain and I'm not sure that I'd want to go through this much hassle again, however good a performer it might eventually be.

I'll see if I can reach that guy from Kyosho.

Just tried to call Kyosho USA but their answering system says they are closed for the Memorial Day holiday. Do you have a direct number or email for Tim Johnson?

Your best bet is to contact them tomorrow... Here's there web-link if you don't already have it... http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/contact.asp :cool:

RC_Alan