Team Orion Engines
#572
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,355
From: Chicago, IL/St.Petersburg,FL
#574
I have my new engine 

and I am setting up the clutch bell. How much back and forth play should the clutch bell have? The Mugen 6T kit has a bunch of shims but dosn't say how many or how much play there should be.
Should there be a shim or two between the inside clutch bell bearing and the clutch retaining nut?
In my simple brain the bearing should ride against a shim instead of the edge of the clutch retaining nut.
I am also looking for some more detailed instructions on properly sealing up the carb.
The only complaint I have after buying the NEW Team Orion ABI 3 port engine and a NEW Team Orion 2013 tuned pipe is not one sticker came with either item for my truck body.





Thanks in advance.


and I am setting up the clutch bell. How much back and forth play should the clutch bell have? The Mugen 6T kit has a bunch of shims but dosn't say how many or how much play there should be.
Should there be a shim or two between the inside clutch bell bearing and the clutch retaining nut?
In my simple brain the bearing should ride against a shim instead of the edge of the clutch retaining nut. I am also looking for some more detailed instructions on properly sealing up the carb.
The only complaint I have after buying the NEW Team Orion ABI 3 port engine and a NEW Team Orion 2013 tuned pipe is not one sticker came with either item for my truck body.






Thanks in advance.
#575
I have my new engine 

and I am setting up the clutch bell. How much back and forth play should the clutch bell have? The Mugen 6T kit has a bunch of shims but dosn't say how many or how much play there should be.
Should there be a shim or two between the inside clutch bell bearing and the clutch retaining nut?
In my simple brain the bearing should ride against a shim instead of the edge of the clutch retaining nut.
I am also looking for some more detailed instructions on properly sealing up the carb.
The only complaint I have after buying the NEW Team Orion ABI 3 port engine and a NEW Team Orion 2013 tuned pipe is not one sticker came with either item for my truck body.





Thanks in advance.


and I am setting up the clutch bell. How much back and forth play should the clutch bell have? The Mugen 6T kit has a bunch of shims but dosn't say how many or how much play there should be.
Should there be a shim or two between the inside clutch bell bearing and the clutch retaining nut?
In my simple brain the bearing should ride against a shim instead of the edge of the clutch retaining nut. I am also looking for some more detailed instructions on properly sealing up the carb.
The only complaint I have after buying the NEW Team Orion ABI 3 port engine and a NEW Team Orion 2013 tuned pipe is not one sticker came with either item for my truck body.






Thanks in advance.
You are correct, the bearing should run on a shim on both sides, not against the nut. No stickers? Where do you race? Hopefully you can get some stickers at the track. There should be a sticker sheet in the engine box, no?Take your time sealing the carb. Thick grease on all the o-rings, and a small zip tie around the dust boot. If you move the bango fitting, you should use sealant on the washers before you tighten it back up.
#577
#579
Just the tiniest click of play should exist on the clutch bell. Basically the smallest amount of play you can get, while still having any play at all, does that make sense?
You are correct, the bearing should run on a shim on both sides, not against the nut. No stickers? Where do you race? Hopefully you can get some stickers at the track. There should be a sticker sheet in the engine box, no?
Take your time sealing the carb. Thick grease on all the o-rings, and a small zip tie around the dust boot. If you move the bango fitting, you should use sealant on the washers before you tighten it back up.
You are correct, the bearing should run on a shim on both sides, not against the nut. No stickers? Where do you race? Hopefully you can get some stickers at the track. There should be a sticker sheet in the engine box, no?Take your time sealing the carb. Thick grease on all the o-rings, and a small zip tie around the dust boot. If you move the bango fitting, you should use sealant on the washers before you tighten it back up.
I did move and seal up the washers. Should I pull the different needles and grease the o-rings on them too or no? BTW, I tore the boxes apart looking for stickers and nope, no stickers.

All in all, Orion has a great looking product and you represent them well! Very pleased with my purchase and I haven't even fired it up yet! I cant wait to tear up the local track!




#581
Thanks Pitpop. Your help has been indispensable!
I did move and seal up the washers. Should I pull the different needles and grease the o-rings on them too or no?
BTW, I tore the boxes apart looking for stickers and nope, no stickers.
All in all, Orion has a great looking product and you represent them well! Very pleased with my purchase and I haven't even fired it up yet! I cant wait to tear up the local track!




I did move and seal up the washers. Should I pull the different needles and grease the o-rings on them too or no? BTW, I tore the boxes apart looking for stickers and nope, no stickers.

All in all, Orion has a great looking product and you represent them well! Very pleased with my purchase and I haven't even fired it up yet! I cant wait to tear up the local track!





yes, you can carefully take out the needles and grease the outer o-ring
#583
I use permatex form-a-gasket, being VERY careful not to get any on the bango fitting itself when putting the washers on. If you get any goop in the holes on the bango, it's not good. Some guys use black silicone adhesive, which is also made by permatex. Either of those work. I like the form-a-gasket because it doesn't harden. If you want to clean it off it's pretty easy.
#584
i just broke in a new MTE today, I ran it on the track for about 4 tanks and 5 brakein tanks. I got the temps at 230 at the most. Was just wondering if i still need to pre heat it before i run it or no?
Thanks
Thanks
#585
Pre-heating is never a bad thing as it will help get your tune quicker and less strain on the rod..Me personally i like to pre heat my motors at least for the first gallon, although i dont think its always needed...If you cant turn the flywheel over by hand then i strongly suggest you preheat it until you can...



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