Thanks

took my O'donnell Zo1-t and RB B9 2045 pipe combo to Motorama this weekend and man was I happy! I started the day with the carb HS needle at a about 1.5mm above flush and the low speed in a bit from flush maybe 1.5mm or so. it was low lean idling on the low end and i had no top end when my practice started so i turned the bottom out to flush and the top in a few hours and it ripped low-top end was great. i had to lean the bottom 3 more hours so it is barely in from flush. i am very happy with this engine i ran a 7 minute qualifer and had 40 % of my fuel tank still full, 11 minutes maybe i ran the OD 97t plug, great plug!

Awesome... 230 is right were you want to run these engines, on really hot days I have got up around 240-245. As for the K9, I don't have one but I have heard the LSN generally has to be run fairly lean on those. Try the settings others have suggested. As long as you lower the idle as your leaning the lsn you should be able to tell when it's just right, as it should accelerate nice and crisp without loading up. You may also want to run a bit more fuel before you start trying fir a race tune.

In truggy you should be able to get a good 11 minutes with that engine, doing timed runs several times I have gone a little over 13 minutes on some tracks.

I just got a RB s7. I havent broken it in yet, should i follow the "break in bible" verbatim? looks like it only says to do about 14 tanks before tuning for a race?

Also does anyone have a used 2045 pipe and header?

do you guys now if they sell a turbo button for the rb s3

I have not read the break in bible method but as long as it is a heat cycle method of break in that has you heating the engine up prior to starting the engine and getting the temps up around 200. RB's generally take more than 14 tanks before they are fully broken in. You should be able to put it on the track after 14 tanks you just shouldn't fully lean it out yet, after about a gallon it will fully free up and you can lean it out more at a full race tune. The key is to be patient in that first gallon and don't expect too much out of the motor, when people try to lean the engine out too soon is when premature wear happens.

I am pretty sure I do have a 2045 pipe that would work for ya, it is slightly dented but it still works fine. PM me if you are interested.

They sure do, the part number is 01080, and it looks like A-Main has them.

thanks

Got the shark yesterday and ill i can say is WOW motor and everything look GREAT just like always. I seen the manual say to add a .1 shim for anything over 25% nitro and im going to add one to be safe. Do you guys knoe any thing about the RB engine protecter #02010-001 looks very nice and i think it may make our engines last even longer. I was wanting to know if it would work with a Losi clucth if so im trying one out?? Do you guys think that less nitro = more runtime????

What is the difference (besides what is on RB's website) between the B.9 H.9 J.9 S.9 and WS.9 I have been out of the hobby for a while and I am a big RB fan. I have always ran a WS7 so I guess all these knew motors in comparison to that. Also is the WS7 3 a big difference. Whats the most and least powerful or what are the different power bands. Thanks

New vs older naming.: B9=C6 WS9=WS7 S9=S7 H9=S5 J9=S3 same engines other name for as far as i know.

anybody know the best pipe for a RB S9 and the rear bearing size?

Use the RB 2045 pipe with the 192 RB header, the crank bearing is the same as the WS 7, 13 x 25, there the same as S7 also.

Here is the Rb site link for you. http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...oduit=01009-S9