hey royj,

I just got the K9 from

http://www.rc-toro.com/product_info....b69f8eb36523c7

I just finished break-in, and paired it with a nova 9001. The bottom end seems nice, but the top rpm isn't there. what pipe do you use? what is your setting?

What heat range plug would you recommend? I have always used a RB #6. If there is a solid alternative I would be interested in trying. The RB plugs are so expensive! I know changing heat ranges will impact performance. It appears several guys in the form use O’Donnell T97’s.

The 97T is a medium plug which is pretty close to the #6 plug you have been using. I personally like to run a #5 plug but my altitude and humidity are a lot different than yours. Maybe try a 77T and a 97T and see if they work for you.

When it comes to tuning my WS7III with a turbo plug, will the finial settings be that much different that a regular plug? Do turbo’s typically like leaner or rich settings than regular plugs? I really appreciate you input and quick response! Thanks! I am really looking forward to getting my WS7III back in action! During the service parts funk over the past year or so I had to switch to other brands of engines. I had one “less expensive brand” go bad in one gallon! You get what you pay for. The service parts situation seems to have gotten much better! The WS7III is so easy to drive!

So Rb have a Killer 10 out that replaces the Killer 9. Any info on whats different?


http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...p?storyid=7631

The tune will actually be very close between the standard and turbo plug. I would just start with the carb settings where they are at now. You will most likely end up leaning it out a little bit more. The parts should be much much easier to find now, RB USA was going thru a move from NJ down to Texas. Brian that runs RB USA has hired a few guys to help him out. They have a good inventory now and can keep the shops and distributors stocked up as well.

Thanks! I am seeing a big improvement in the parts distribution chain. Nothing more frustrating that having a high dollar engine and no service parts!

Wow Chris.............you really can be a nice guy

Rick -I also have the same engine and its been out of service since this time last year. I'm in a Nova 21+4 for now but I sure miss my WS7III. I need a con rod, piston & sleeve but gosh their expensive. I'd like to have it re-built before the first GCS race but we'll see.

When getting a new P/S/R for the WS7 know that there are 2 different sets avail. RBD01143-WS7, and RBD01143-WS7/M. The /M part is the new sleeve that has the MES exhaust porting so it has 3 exhaust ports rather than 1. I know on the C6 the exhaust port on the case it's self has some shaving done to the case so the two MES ports are open to the port on the case. The part number on the WS7/WS9 crank cases match up so I assume they are the same but it's possible there was just a running change done to open this up. I will look at my old WS7II later today and make sure the MES sleeve will work fine in the older engines.

MiniMe
I know they are expensive. I took the approach that “for the cost of a rebuild I could buy a new engine”. Plus RB parts were nowhere to be found at the time. I bought a “brand new” engine for $225.00 and it did not last one gallon. So then, because of readily availability parts, I bought a V-Spec which I am not all that impressed with. Do the math; $160.00 for the sleeve, piston, and con rod is not so bad! Plus the V-Spec is harder to drive. And I do not think it will last as long as a RB. That is why I bought the RB to begin with.

Dang! I was I had of known that! What exactly are the benefits of the MES exhaust porting? I have seen the ‘spec” mentioned in the sales information. Would it mean more low end? Do you give some up on top? Nothing more enjoyable than my RC8 at full tilt down the back straight! It appears that with the turbo head button and using the MES sleeve you have basically a WS9? Minus the cooling head.

MES design allows the engine to have a larger exhaust port volume without the risk of the piston catching the port... For the most part a MES is just a bridged exhaust port...tho some companies will alter the timing between the 3 ports to tailor the powerand....A engine with a bigger exhaust port has the potential to breath better and make more power.....

Does the RB design result in more low end power?

You didn't mention how much fuel you've run thru the mill for your break-in. Many confuse break-in with run-in. Run-in is what's done first, and can take several tanks. There is no top-end to be found this early. The break-in process should take a gallon or more total, depending on how soon you want to change the conrod or retire the motor. I prefer to take it easy for the first 2 gallons for the longest conrod life, and 10+ gallon engine life. So I don't even try to get full top-end rpms until I run a gallon. During that time I limited my tune for a max of only 80-90% power. That's probably why I still have running 6 out of the last 7 I purchased in 10 years.

I haven't tried a 9001 with my K9. I started with the Dynamite 053 for a smooth low to midrange power, with limited top-end, while waiting for my 2045 to arrive. The first race I ran the 053, I got 10 minute run times. After two gallons total, I next tried the JP3 which had more punch and similar run-times, great for shorter-run-up-to-jump style tracks. Since then I've been running the RB 2045, which is the most driveable. It's so smooth that it took some getting used to, since it's not as explosive as the JP3. The 2045 simply puts more power to the ground instead of wheel-spinning.

Both of my needles are really close to flush, and amazingly I have barely had to touch them, regardless of the track location or outside temps.