C6USA is a Novarossi based engine so it's made in Italy.

thank you chris for the knowledge cause i was under the impression that it was a taiwain base engine and its good it is not tks again for your time


TY Rottie

Pickle, I would only take out the smallest shim first, and only if I was dropping from 30% nitro to 20%. Unless you have minimal compression with all shims in.

My K9 has over 4 gallons now, with unbelievable results. I'm still getting at least 8.5 minutes on high-speed tracks; 10+ on technical tracks. There's no way I can see wasting the dough for another C6/B9, when the K9 can get more power to the ground and with just as good runtime. Now if we could just get a US RB dealer somewhere to just stock a handful of parts, namely a conrod.

Hi Guys,

Are the RB piston and sleeve same as the Nova? I thought of using the N21r piston and sleeve and conrod on the C5..

Hey Chris, whats the difference between the B9 and C6 USA? Have you used both? Which 1 is stronger?

The C6 has more bottom end.

No you should not try this. It's a possibility it will work but a better possibility you will destroy it.

the OFNA Force JL 21 is the exact same engine.....nitrohouse has the rods in stock

There are two things different between the B9 and the C6USA. First the turbo button it's self has a tear drop shaved into it that points toward the exhaust port. (Part number: 01082/R) Second is a modified, balanced crankshaft that has the black coating on the crank pin. (Part Number: 01164-14B/R)


The C6USA does have more bottom end than the B9 but with the balanced crank it is quite smooth and not like an on off switch. I also feel the top end may be a little better. I have ceramic bearings on the way to put in my C6USA which should wake it up a little more. The B9 does get a little better fuel mileage.

Also the C6USA was a limited run of engines so they are pretty hard to find. If you can get one I would grab it up because it is very fast!!!

Hello Gentleman,
I have a WS7III that after 2 years and 10+ gallons needed a rebuild. I have installed a new piston, sleeve, and con rod as well as replaced all of the seals and bearings (ceramic). I have replaced the head button with a turbo one. Should I expect better performance, or did I waste my money? I run Byron’s 25% with the factory shim set up. Would I show a performance increase by removing the 1mm shim? What about going to 30% nitro and keeping the factory shim setup? I run on tracks in the Atlanta, Ga area. Any suggestions for clutch/spring setups? I am currently running a RC8 with all of the B upgrades and a M2C Racing 4 shoe clutch and .9 springs. I love this motor and the linear power delivery! I would like to get a little more snap off of the bottom. I run the 2045/192 pipe combo.

The turbo plug will give you a little more power as well as a little better fuel mileage. I like turbo plugs because the seem to last a lot longer than normal plugs. As for the shims, you do not want to remove any shims running in Atlanta. The engine is shimmed for 25% nitro right now, you can probably run 30% and also be fine just make sure you have both shims. To get a little more snap from the engine you can try several things. First try 1.0 springs instead of .9 Then you can try the 198 header instead of the 192. Finally if you still need more bottom end play with your gearing. Make sure you take your time breaking it in again and you should get many more gallons thru the engine.

I've heard several people say they are the same, because they have a handfull of parts that look alike. However, looks can be deceiving. Here are the description and specs of the JL that I've found.

"The OFNA Force .21 JL Off-Road 7-Port Engine is a high performance racing engine at a price you would not expect from an engine with a chamfered and winded crank, anodized super flow rear cover plate, dual composite 8mm carb, turbo head button, and 5+2 port sleeve."

Specifications:

Hardened crank with chamfered exit port with turbo cut, and counter weight cut for windage.Anodized super flow rear cover plate.8mm carburetor with composite body to isolate heat and aluminum center fuel transfer port for strength and smooth slide action.Turbo head button. 5+2 Port Sleeve (5 transfer ports with 2 satellite ports) and new long lasting Supertanium Piston. CNC Buzz Saw cooling head. Includes JL port condoms to keep dirt out while cleaning or for storage.

Claimed HP 3.4
RPM 37000
Carb Type Slide
Constuction ABC

Type Rear Exhaust
Ports 7
Crankshaft SG
Stroke 17.6
Bore 18.35

There may be some similarities, but here are the differences:

1. Most importantly, the RB K9 has a completely different sized bore and stroke listed. So having identical conrods is nearly impossible. Although I hope and wish they are the same.
RB SPECS:
Displacement: 0.21cu in (3.48cc)
Bore: 16.20mm
Stroke: 16.00mm
Intake Ports: 5+2
Crankshaft: 14mm

2. The K9's crankcase, crank and back plate are not coated, like on the JL Force.
3. The K9 comes with a tapered shaped heat sink, drilled for light-weight, while the JL has an oversized head with the buzz saw design.
4. The K9 includes a hard-coated carb restrictor insert, wrist pin, and pinch-bolt.

The two engines obviously have similarities, like so many others out there, but they are far from identical.

they are the same engine....trust me ! rods, piston/sleeve/crank/carb/case/bearings/wrist pin are all interchangeable !

If so, that's awesome. Thanks.