Definitely not.. Oh well, guess I'll have to eat some of what I paid for it to unload it...

Gonna' buy a V14 or make one last effort to find a new Fire..

ps Gotta's shot I think at a V11 for a good price.. But that's basically a B10/B11 right?...

the c5 has diffrent exhaust timing to c6. RB changed this on the c5bb onwords so the c5bb/c6 is the same liner. the s5 is a total diffrent engine
closer related to s7/ws7

So the V9 is an S5 with a C5 crank... I'm assuming the crank's not gonna' make a meaningful difference....

We have a new Fire in the case...

the Blasts use a Novarossi crank..... quite different then the original C5 and C6 cranks........

How can I tell?

remove the crankshaft and measure the diameter of the crankpin

RB will be 5 mm
Nova will be 4.95 mm

Help! My V12 is running really hot 290-310 range. Its still breaking in. I have the low speed about flush and the high speed a few hours in from flush. I originally started to back out the low speed but that didn't help...and I backed it out like almost 2 turns from flush. Still had lots of bottom end. Raced this weekend. Worked well but came off hot. A guy tried to help me out and we got to those needle setting...still hot. He suggested I add a copper shim to the head.
Thoughts?

How old is your fuel? Fuel with too much moisture in it will run hot.

Just bought it about 2 weeks ago.

What plug? Fuel 30%? What pipe/header? Anyone that just willy nilly suggests to add a shim with out any measurements to back it up is an idiot that should never be around an engine. If your low end is that far out something is way wrong either plug wise or pipe/header. My idle mixture is in .5mm from flush and main needle is just in a little from flush. So it sounds like you are way rich on the bottom. Gotta think about air leaks around the pinch bolt. The pinch bolt on these arent oring sealed so use a drop of silicon or air seal on that part.

My engine loves the OD 97t, been using the same plug for a month. The V12 didn't like any sort of long header, so if you have a short header use that.

Did you try a different temp gun? If the engine has a good trail of smoke coming out at full throttle it should be ok even though it is hot by temp gun. I don't temp engines much anymore, just listen and look at what it is doing. If it doesn't sound right at idle, or full throttle then something is wrong.

I'm using VP fuel 20%, nvision header and pipe (2058), and using the RB special buggy plug. Didn't try a different temp gun. I got a raytech...pretty accurate. It machine gun idles sometimes. It is getting hot. I can feel the power loss when i drive. I'll try the silicon idea. which one though?

Sensor Safe silicon or that Racers edge/Lucky 7 air seal.

Run 30%, makes your life a lot easier. I have no ideal why people are afraid of nitro....

Mine had that wacky idle when I had a long header and the stock plug. Put a shorter header on and OD 97t and it was perfect. It never really ran hot, just erratic idle.

Doesn't the erratic idle contribute to the high temps? Since it never really has a low idle?
Short header from who?

It sounds like you have so much wrong the whole setup is out of whack. Your idle gap is probably way to big because your idle mixture is way rich.

If anything you need to take out a shim if you are running 20%, but I say that not knowing where you are at in the first place.

Do this, run 30%, OD 97t, not sure on the length of the Nvision header. If it looks long try a shorter one. Set your low end back to about 1/2 turn in from flush. See how it runs then. Probably will have to close your idle gap a bunch. I'm surprised it still stays running with the mixture that rich on the bottom