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Old 04-21-2011, 12:42 AM
  #1801  
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Originally Posted by mixedguy
Ok finally bought a ow motor. Hope it last. I have two pipes. Which do u all think is better. Have a sh 2060 is it the same as OS? Or a 086 pipe. It's going on a the new vspec whatever its called xv b. Don't have it front of me. I am at work. It's the one that sells for 259 wich replaced the v spec. Thanks for the help.
The SH pipe is not the same as the OS pipe.
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Old 04-21-2011, 03:26 AM
  #1802  
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Hello.

I would like to know, how is the wear of the crankpin on the new standart xzb .21, does it suffer from premature wear like the vzb?

Thanks
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Old 04-23-2011, 06:40 AM
  #1803  
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Okay Ill start out this post by saying that Im most likely an idiot.
Anyways, last year I got myself an OS 25XZ for my RC8T, now I should point out that I havent been into nitro for years before that. I quit in 2004 and started again last year so I might have forgotten alot about engine tuning.
Ran the engine in and everything went fine, but as soon as I started driving it on the track I noticed that the engine would rev up like it was running lean every time I let go off the throttle after the straight on the track.
Same thing when it was hot, revved it high for a few seconds with the wheels in the air and the engine would continue revving for a few seconds after I let go of the throttle.
I got numerous suggestions about decrease the idle and lean it on the low end etc but that only made the engine stall like all the time.
Cause the thing is, the engine ran stable when it was idling, and when I got on power it wasnt sluggish at all like it was bogging down from being too rich.

Either way I felt like I tried every single setup imaginable but nothing helped, I ran the engine rich and lean, both on high end and low end, but no matter what I did the engine would still rev up after the straight.
Season ended before I managed to figure it out and I sort of assumed that it was just me not being all that good at tuning engines.

Today I had my first run with the car of the season and oh my. Not only would it do exactly the same thing as last year where it would rev up after the straight but now it also started to sound like you know right before an engine runs out of fuel, it revs up and sounds like its sucking in airbubbles cause it jumps up and down really fast.
Every time I started the truck it would run great on idle, when I picked it up and held it in the wing, it would start doing that, where it sounded like it was sucking in air. After I put it down again it would idle as normal.
Didnt think much about it and started driving. The engine ran great, had loads of power in the low end and revved great, I drove almost 100 laps and it ran great, even though it revved up somewhat after the straight but I didnt really think about it.
Although, every time I stopped for fuel, and let it idle it would do that again, where it sounded like it was almost running out of fuel, like its sucking air.
I tried removing my fuelfilter and ran a straight fuelline from the engine to the tank but that didnt help. I tried all manner of settings on the carb but nothing helped.
So yea, here I am, midly annoyed but mostly confused about what to do.
Before this I actualy thought that I could tune engines, cause Ive never ever had this issue before on any car or engine Ive owned previously. Im almost convinced that its not a tuning error on the engine, but yea what do I know.

Id be greatful for your help cause Im almost giving up here.
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:09 AM
  #1804  
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Originally Posted by Lilja
Okay Ill start out this post by saying that Im most likely an idiot.
Anyways, last year I got myself an OS 25XZ for my RC8T, now I should point out that I havent been into nitro for years before that. I quit in 2004 and started again last year so I might have forgotten alot about engine tuning.
Ran the engine in and everything went fine, but as soon as I started driving it on the track I noticed that the engine would rev up like it was running lean every time I let go off the throttle after the straight on the track.
Same thing when it was hot, revved it high for a few seconds with the wheels in the air and the engine would continue revving for a few seconds after I let go of the throttle.
I got numerous suggestions about decrease the idle and lean it on the low end etc but that only made the engine stall like all the time.
Cause the thing is, the engine ran stable when it was idling, and when I got on power it wasnt sluggish at all like it was bogging down from being too rich.

Either way I felt like I tried every single setup imaginable but nothing helped, I ran the engine rich and lean, both on high end and low end, but no matter what I did the engine would still rev up after the straight.
Season ended before I managed to figure it out and I sort of assumed that it was just me not being all that good at tuning engines.

Today I had my first run with the car of the season and oh my. Not only would it do exactly the same thing as last year where it would rev up after the straight but now it also started to sound like you know right before an engine runs out of fuel, it revs up and sounds like its sucking in airbubbles cause it jumps up and down really fast.
Every time I started the truck it would run great on idle, when I picked it up and held it in the wing, it would start doing that, where it sounded like it was sucking in air. After I put it down again it would idle as normal.
Didnt think much about it and started driving. The engine ran great, had loads of power in the low end and revved great, I drove almost 100 laps and it ran great, even though it revved up somewhat after the straight but I didnt really think about it.
Although, every time I stopped for fuel, and let it idle it would do that again, where it sounded like it was almost running out of fuel, like its sucking air.
I tried removing my fuelfilter and ran a straight fuelline from the engine to the tank but that didnt help. I tried all manner of settings on the carb but nothing helped.
So yea, here I am, midly annoyed but mostly confused about what to do.
Before this I actualy thought that I could tune engines, cause Ive never ever had this issue before on any car or engine Ive owned previously. Im almost convinced that its not a tuning error on the engine, but yea what do I know.

Id be greatful for your help cause Im almost giving up here.
I had that same problem, it turn out to be a crack at the bottom of the fuel tank.
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:34 AM
  #1805  
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I just pressure tested the fueltank by submerging it in water and blowed in one of the fuellines while plugging the other one and it doesnt seem to be leaking at all. No airbubbles nothing.
Its starting to become very strange this thing. I should perhaps point out that I purchased the fuel last season, but its an unopened bottle so it couldnt have gone bad during the winter could it? Its been stored in room temp most of the time.
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Old 04-23-2011, 11:46 AM
  #1806  
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Default Plug "poped" out!!!

OS 21XZ-B Speed, P3 plug, in less than 30 mins on my first run (after the break in), the plug "poped" out!!!! Engine quit, bought her in, noticed the plug was gone, dirt/small sand was in where the plug is supposed to be!!!

Most likely it's a goner - liner and piston. I don't have the time to tear her down to check the damage.

It's probably and highly likely that it's my own stupidity for not bringing her in when her idle is not stable...a high price to pay.

Now the million dollar question is "how does the plug manage to come loose?"

Before the run, i made sure that it's was tight...but boy, i was sure dead wrong about it!!!

I just don't want to repeat this expensive lesson

Any ideas?
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Old 04-23-2011, 12:37 PM
  #1807  
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Originally Posted by ramjesr
I had that same problem, it turn out to be a crack at the bottom of the fuel tank.
Check for cracks in the engine block.
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Old 04-23-2011, 12:42 PM
  #1808  
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Originally Posted by Lilja
I just pressure tested the fueltank by submerging it in water and blowed in one of the fuellines while plugging the other one and it doesnt seem to be leaking at all. No airbubbles nothing.
Its starting to become very strange this thing. I should perhaps point out that I purchased the fuel last season, but its an unopened bottle so it couldnt have gone bad during the winter could it? Its been stored in room temp most of the time.
As long as the fuel bottle was not stored on the cement floor it should be ok.
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Old 04-23-2011, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ramjesr
Check for cracks in the engine block.
Doubt it since I dismantled the engine and cleaned it a few months ago. What I havent done though is I havent sealed the engine with silicone like I did last year cause I didnt really think it would be necessary.
Think Im gonna get a new fueltank, a new fuelfilter, new plug and test some other fuel. Then reseal the engine and check for leaks. Could also go back to factory settings while Im at it and see.

Im just finding it rather hard to believe that its a tuning issue since it has great power and great top end when Im running it, its just idling issues. But still it will idle forever once you let it and then take off without any bogging once you get on the throttle.
The problem only occurs after Ive been running it for a while and then let go of the throttle, it will start sounding like its sucking air or like its almost running out of fuel, but only for a while then it goes back to normal idle again.
But if I pick it up and hold it nose down itll start doing it again. It seems to also get worse the less fuel it has in the tank.
The day ended with me flipping, ran down to turn it over but it stalled before I could get there. There was like 1/4 of a tank left so I tried starting it, it idled very well for a few seconds, like 20 seconds or so then it stalled. Started it again and only ran a few seconds but I could see the fuelline had massive amounts of air in it, so it revved up like crazy and then stalled. Tried starting it again but it just ran alittle while and was stuttering alot. Still the fueltank wasnt empty, there wasnt alot in it but it wasnt empty.
I eventually got sick of it packed up and went home.
Im still clueless........
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Old 04-23-2011, 01:59 PM
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Double check if the dust boot is damaged or if fuel is coming out from there. From what you described it sounds like the idle gap is a bit wide and the LSN still needs to be leaned to keep it from dying. Yes, go back to stock settings. Then lean the HSN 3/4 and LSN 1/2 from stock settings. This will still put you on the rich side but closer to a tune. Keep working the HSN till it goes down your longest straight on the track while being able to still see smoke coming out the pipe and your RPM just about the max peak. Then start leaning the LSN to get a good punch. I usually do a WOT pass, I have the motor sit for 7 secs then punch it; now if it is sluggish I continue to lean the LSN. On the other hand if the LSN is to lean the engine will have that cut off effect which indicates the LSN is too lean. Do another WOT pass, let off the throttle and if the idle sound has a "Wee sound vise a Waa" close your idle gab a tad until the "Wee sound is gone". And even after a WOT the idle should have a nice hanging idle sound for aprrox 3 secs. Without me hearing the motor it is hard to pin point the problem but going back to stock setting should help.
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Old 04-23-2011, 02:35 PM
  #1811  
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Originally Posted by Lilja
Doubt it since I dismantled the engine and cleaned it a few months ago. What I havent done though is I havent sealed the engine with silicone like I did last year cause I didnt really think it would be necessary.
Think Im gonna get a new fueltank, a new fuelfilter, new plug and test some other fuel. Then reseal the engine and check for leaks. Could also go back to factory settings while Im at it and see.

Im just finding it rather hard to believe that its a tuning issue since it has great power and great top end when Im running it, its just idling issues. But still it will idle forever once you let it and then take off without any bogging once you get on the throttle.
The problem only occurs after Ive been running it for a while and then let go of the throttle, it will start sounding like its sucking air or like its almost running out of fuel, but only for a while then it goes back to normal idle again.
But if I pick it up and hold it nose down itll start doing it again. It seems to also get worse the less fuel it has in the tank.
The day ended with me flipping, ran down to turn it over but it stalled before I could get there. There was like 1/4 of a tank left so I tried starting it, it idled very well for a few seconds, like 20 seconds or so then it stalled. Started it again and only ran a few seconds but I could see the fuelline had massive amounts of air in it, so it revved up like crazy and then stalled. Tried starting it again but it just ran alittle while and was stuttering alot. Still the fueltank wasnt empty, there wasnt alot in it but it wasnt empty.
I eventually got sick of it packed up and went home.
Im still clueless........
Sounds like a bad tank to me. It is always worth changing the tank and all of the lines when you're having a tuning issue that won't go away. Also get rid of the inline filter. You don't need it and it will only cause problems. Seal the backplate, carb base and pinch bolt. That should take care of any air leaks you could be having. If it is still acting funny, it is most likely a tune issue. I would say you're still too fat on the bottom with too much idle gap.
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Old 04-23-2011, 06:49 PM
  #1812  
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Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
Sounds like a bad tank to me. It is always worth changing the tank and all of the lines when you're having a tuning issue that won't go away. Also get rid of the inline filter. You don't need it and it will only cause problems. Seal the backplate, carb base and pinch bolt. That should take care of any air leaks you could be having. If it is still acting funny, it is most likely a tune issue. I would say you're still too fat on the bottom with too much idle gap.
Try to get some Lucky7 engine seal if not I guess any rtv will work.
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:54 PM
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When you pick the car up by the wing, you move the fuel away from the pickup... it's going to lean out if you don't hold it level.

Other than that, check to make sure your center diff isn't leaking, and that the rear chassis brace is the correct length. These things severely effect the tune of an engine.
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Old 04-24-2011, 07:01 AM
  #1814  
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Originally Posted by Lilja
I just pressure tested the fueltank by submerging it in water and blowed in one of the fuellines while plugging the other one and it doesnt seem to be leaking at all. No airbubbles nothing.
Its starting to become very strange this thing. I should perhaps point out that I purchased the fuel last season, but its an unopened bottle so it couldnt have gone bad during the winter could it? Its been stored in room temp most of the time.
I still think you are to lean on top !! Keep turning the top richer untill the problem stops. Dont worry about if it idles or not at this point, you can even turn the idle down a full turn to eliminate that even being a problem. If you cant stop the high rev after full throttle from richening the top excessively, then you have a air leak. You can spray the engine with carb cleaner spray (useing the straw), when the engine is doing the high rev thing and when you spray the spot leaking it will drop the idle instantly. Just spray a small amount, in a small area at a time. Good luck,


Scott
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Old 04-24-2011, 07:09 AM
  #1815  
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Originally Posted by Skillett
What kinda of run times should I look for
With a vzb os speed with a 2060 pipe in a buggy.
Is the 6mm restrictor ok or does it make the bottom
real touchy like most motors.....Thanks
I run a 6 restrictor in my speed with the 2060 and the bottom is still very smooth.

Scott
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