I heard they're gas hogs. I have 2 of the regular vr's and i run the crap outta the one in the buggy. People are gonna steer you into the ea 2031 I believe thats the number. Thats what I run and I have no problems. Love the older reedys.

I broke my motor in on a Reedy 2039 pipe, which is for top end and works pretty well on my small indoor track but now I'm gonna try the 2035 pipe. Have not had a chance to do any fuel mileage runs since the motor is new.

But be prepared tho for the temps this motor puts out. I broke mine in and was pretty normal, but when I hit the track to do some slow speed laps the motor tempted out like 250-260 which is crazy to me, but tried to richen the LS and HS and motor just bogged down so bad it would not run. Now I'm on about my 8-9 tanks and getting closer to a race tune and still rich on top the temps are in the 280 range. Getting good smoke and still a little rich bog on top and bottom, so I'm going to leave the temp gun at home from now on LOL

yeah the engine does like to run hotter than most others. And yes leave the temp gun at home. I only temp engines during break in just to make sure there getting up in temp. To many people try to tune a engine to a specific temp. As long as there is a little smoke its good. I have both the 2035 and 2039 pipes. I have only run the 2035 so far and really like the bottom it has. But I feel it could just use a little bit more top end, so Im gonna try the 2039 next race

I need some help. I broke my engine in with a 2035 pipe. I ran it at idle for three tanks. I then ran a tank at part throttle. I started to tune the top end and started loosing idle as well. I was running a RT3 glow plug. After a while I couldn't keep it lite. I changed the plug with another RT3 and it was starting OK and I was able to tune idle and part throttle again and then as I was starting to tune the top end the engine would stall at idle. It was showing a good amount of blue smoke so I leaned out the high speed needle some but again stall. What am I doing wrong? First nitro in a long time! Should I try a cooler or hotter plug? Which plug is recommended? Need a process to tune the engine.

Leave the rt3 plug. Check your idle gap and make sure the linkages are correct. If all else fails my starting settings are 2 3/4 on both needles from closed. That will get you close, you may have to lean it a little from there but it will for sure run with those settings. The reedy is actually a easy to tune engine, My needles only change a hour or so from each race day

I changed to the OD 97T plug and that made a world of difference.

Thanks for the input. I also was directed to a video from Jared Thebo that was really good. The Reedy manual for break-in has you start with the factory settings and run the engine at idle. The idle was a little rich but for break in that is good. Then after you run half throttle start to increase to full throttle and adjust the high speed needle for smoke. I think this is not the best process since the high speed needle effects the low speed some. I got lost in the needle settings. I really appreciate you base settings and will use them to start the next tuning session.

What Thebo shows in his video is pretty logical to me. Start with rich settings and more air than normal. Then set the high speed needle first for half to full throttle so that it is crisp and light smoke trail. This sets the flow into the carb. At this point the idle is too high and rich. He then starts to lean out the low speed needle and reduces air little by little until the return to idle is level. When rich it will hang high for some seconds and then reduce and load up. It was critical that he would clean out the engine during this iterative process. His goal was to have a return to idle that was consistant and did not have any saging or loading. Seems really logical to me and I will do this when I return to the track.

I must have burned out the plug. I have a RT4 in the engine right now so I will swap that out to a RT3. I also have a OS P4 plug. I don't have any OD 97t plugs. I heard that is what Saxton uses. What drives you to change the plug temps? I expect to see temps between 60 and 110 hear in Brazil. Should I consider RT3 and cooler? I am running a 30% nitro mix fuel.

The 97T is the best all around plug for these engines IMO. They work when it's freezing or hot and humid. Best idle, low end tune and they last a really long time.

I have to agree with Brandon, I broke my ST in with the Reedy plug then installed a 97T plug and idles allot smoother. It's a good all around plug.!

I will try to get the OD 97T plug. For now I will have to deal with the plugs I have. The local AE guys here in Brazil are running the OS P3 plug. All I have left are RT3, RT4 and some OS P4 plugs. I noticed that the 97T is also reasonably priced as well. Is there any difference in top speed with these plugs? What changes to compression ratio are needed. The local expert is suggesting that changing the head gasket may be good. I am running the head gasket that came with the engine.

The #800 engine comes built with 2 head shims and the RT3 plug. Running the hotter plug with this compression works great for break-in, but I change those out as it gets closer to a race tune.

I replace the 2 thin head shims with the extra thick one that comes with the engine (that increases compression slightly). I also then go to the cooler RT4 plug. Once in a while, I'll try the RT3 in there and it works well when it's cold out, but 90% of the time I stick with the RT4. I've been running that setup in Reedy engines for 3 years now and I'm very happy with it... although since Brandon now swears by the 97T, I guess I'll finally have to break down and give that a try too.

I had my head off and I only noticed one shim. Maybe there was two shims and I was not clear. I did notice the extra shim included in the kit. I don't have a dial caliper to measure them. I like you plan to use the thick shim with the RT4 plug. I may try this too.

Do you notice better or worse fuel ecomony with this set-up? Are you racing?

I pulled the head and swapped out the two shims for the thick on in the kit. I have the RT4 plug in the head and will be testing Saturday. I will post my experience tuning this configuration and see what else. I am assuming that the OS P4 plug is similar to the RT4which I have. I will most likely run this as well soon.

If I detonate I will hear the pinging I'm sure.

Spoke to the local rep and he recommended 0.55mm of head shims and my P4 OS plug. I hope to measure the shims and get to the recommended thickness and swap plugs.

I had a really hard time getting this motor to break in and the idle and temp were all over the map... This is my 3rd Reedy Engine that I have broke in now and this is my thoughts...

1. The low end needle tends to ship from factory pretty lean... I had to richen it up a bit to get correct idle and make sure air gap is set correclty.

2. You need to turn the idle up a bit on these as they will stall easily in the first 1/2 - 3/4 gallon as they have a pretty tight pinch to wear in.

3. Preheat the engine every time if possible at least duing break-in.

4. These engine go from tough to keep running to super easy to tune and provide just stupid power once they break-in... I find this to be right around a full gallon.

I was running my ST in my truggy this weekend and it was fighting me a little on the tune plus i was finishing the breakin.... The motor came in during the A-Main and it was a MONSTER... I ran it with a 7.5mm insert and the 2035 piple... The power was amazing! I have not done a runtime check as of yet because the motor just come into it's own.

These engines do run a bit hotter then other ones I have run... My ST runs best around 260 - 270 in the truggy but as stated above... It has good smoke, idles great and provides TONS of power... So all good in my book!

Hope this helps.