The reedy runs great. 260 is not hot for this engine.

hearing those temps didn't bother me, I was just wondering if that is pretty kosher with everyone who now has one in there buggy/truggy.

I just got mine in late last week, but have yet to get one on the track.

. . only ran 1 race with mine. It started and finished around 230 deg / 20 min main. Another was at our local track and I think it was 215 to 220 deg.

Air temperature, humidity, different fuel brands, . . etc.. . play a part in engine temp's.

Watch for the smoke out of your pipe at the end of your longest straight . .

. . but some tune strictly to engine temperature.

Hope this helps.

Been running this motor for a month now and absolutly love it. Timed it in my RC8T yesterday and got 12 1/2 minutes on a tank. Temps were at 245.:nod:

just wondering what plugs everyone is running.

I was actually runnin an Axe Rossi RT5, ran really good on it, around 225 deg and loads of power. Give a P4 a shot, seems to me that this motor doesn't really need the ultra hot plug like some motors

what about novarossi #5 or #6 plugs. i can get them for super cheap from a buddy.

run the #5, works good

Right, going to pick one of these 'bad boys' up tomorrow. I've read the manuel online and it says to use 30% nitro. I use this anyway but what i'm asking is, i guess that it is set-up out of the box to use with 30%....or is it set at 25% fuel meaning i need to add another .1mm shim?

Cheers, Chaz

It comes with an extra shim, i'm running the extra shim in mine and i'm on 25%, didn't really notice a difference from when it was in and when it wasn't...

The extra shim is way too think to actually use in a race tune. If you want to use it for break in, that's fine, but to get a race tune with it is difficult.

The extra shim is .40 mm and the shims that come in the motor are .55mm. You almost double the deck height when adding it. If you need to adjust I would put in the .40 and remove the .30 or .25 shim, but using .95 of head shims will not yield good power.

For most applications, the stock head shimming (.55mm) after break in will work just fine.

picking one of these up today at the track :blush::nod:

brandon i put extra shim in and broke in motor with odonnell 30% and p4 gp, but now broken in it wont take a tune, so ill try shimming it with the .40 for race tune up thanks for info i was going to give up on it and go back to my speed motors ........:nod:

Seel both sides of the carb gasket. I had tuning issues before and that took care of them. Engine runs awesome now.

I see you are in FL, which right now would be high in temp and humidity. We also have high humidity here in NC. I have had great tunability out of the Odonell 97T plug, I think it's better than P4. It holds and amazing idle and also immediately comes down to idle if the LSN is tuned correctly. Taking out .4 of shimming will make it tune quite different, which is probably where you got lost.

Run the engine with the stock head shims first, which like I said is 2 shims, each being .30 and .25 mm.

My needle setting are roughly 2 3/4 turns out on the LSN and 2 turns out on the HSN. Keep in mind the HSN on the engine is really sensitive, so 1 hr. makes a big difference. SET THE IDLE GAP FIRST when using these settings. I set my idle gap by eyeballing the gap to half the distance of a 1.5 allen wrench tip, which puts you around .7-.8 mm gap. With an idle gap of this size, there's no reason it won't idle, so if you get a finicky idle, your LSN isn't tuned properly.

There's really no way around it, but in the summer with high humidity, the engine will run between 260-270 for good performance.