GRP... Engine... Thread...
#1338
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,905
From: SOMEWHERE LUVIN ME SOME RC
I've gotta think that burton driving for team losi and grp and horizon. Knows the grp inside and out. I just watched how he tuned his asked questions and listened to what he had to say. And it help me out a bunch.
#1340
Your about right where I am on the lsn. Just thought I would throw a few things out here. The stumple that people are feeling in the mid range can be normal at some point even running the grp pipe. I know that when alan burton helped me with mine to make sure it was right after I broke it in. He kept saying listen for the little hesitation in the middle of a smooth trigger pull. By smooth I mean pulling lightly all they way through not just jerking full trigger. He said it was about normal for these motors to have that stumble in the mid range. It also probably been said but the motor shouldn't feel like its winding out on the straights. It should feel and sound like its lugging the whole way. While generating smooth consistent power from bottom to top. Besides the stumble he mentioned. Was also gonna throw out yall may wanna check your bearings at the gallon break in mark. I had bought tko's and was gonna put em in about 2 gallons mark. Took my tuned apart to check it out at a gallon. And the front bearing was tanks away from going south. Real rough and gritty. Tko's solved that.
I've gotta think that burton driving for team losi and grp and horizon. Knows the grp inside and out. I just watched how he tuned his asked questions and listened to what he had to say. And it help me out a bunch.
I've gotta think that burton driving for team losi and grp and horizon. Knows the grp inside and out. I just watched how he tuned his asked questions and listened to what he had to say. And it help me out a bunch.
#1341
I am using the dynamite 053 pipe. I have a dynamite 086 that I am going to try this weekend at a large track. The last few tracks I have been racing on were small indoor to med outdoor. Oh BTH I am running in an 8t 2.0.
#1342
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,835
From: Birmingham Alabama
When my engines are tuned perfect they are just as zixxer has described. If I warm them up, make a few passes, and then come to a stop and very smoothly roll onto the throttle you will get a slight "mid range" transition sound or whatever you want to call it. This will not be noticed on the track and under race conditions. After sitting for say a couple minutes of idle once you pull full throttle the bottom should have "NOT" loaded up very much at all and have no risk of flaming due to loading up within thta time frame. Top end should pull well but won't have that scream some other engines will.
I always get whoevers engine idling well first with the bottom, start with the top rich on the track and work it in until it's sounding good.
I always get whoevers engine idling well first with the bottom, start with the top rich on the track and work it in until it's sounding good.
#1343
Mine sounds a lot like that also. I was practicing with another guy the other day and noticed how mine sounded like it was rich and his engine was much higher pitched (not sure what it was). Despite the sound, mine was keeping up with his.
#1345
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,905
From: SOMEWHERE LUVIN ME SOME RC
When my engines are tuned perfect they are just as zixxer has described. If I warm them up, make a few passes, and then come to a stop and very smoothly roll onto the throttle you will get a slight "mid range" transition sound or whatever you want to call it. This will not be noticed on the track and under race conditions. After sitting for say a couple minutes of idle once you pull full throttle the bottom should have "NOT" loaded up very much at all and have no risk of flaming due to loading up within thta time frame. Top end should pull well but won't have that scream some other engines will.
I always get whoevers engine idling well first with the bottom, start with the top rich on the track and work it in until it's sounding good.
I always get whoevers engine idling well first with the bottom, start with the top rich on the track and work it in until it's sounding good.
#1346
So how much fuel did anybody else have to run through there motors before they "really" were broken in. I have over a gallon through my non tuned grp and the motor just wont hold a tune.
It still has a lot of pinch but every time I start the motor up it is pig rich and not making any power. I let the motor warm up, retune the carb until the motor runs good but by the time I run the tank low and come in for a refuel it richens right back up! I am not worried about numbers on the temp gun but I do use it for a reference and it seems the motor likes to be happy around 250. I find I am chasing the tune because I have yet to get anything consistent. While I was running the motor in for the first couple of tanks I figured this was acceptable but now that I have over a gallon on it I am starting to get a bit frustrated. The motor does not flame out, it does idle well, and it does have great power when it is in tune but the tune just keeps changing. Also does anyone feel that maybe the bottom end needle is more sensitive than the top or vise versa? Anyones thoughts? The motor is good just cant get it fine tuned yet.
It still has a lot of pinch but every time I start the motor up it is pig rich and not making any power. I let the motor warm up, retune the carb until the motor runs good but by the time I run the tank low and come in for a refuel it richens right back up! I am not worried about numbers on the temp gun but I do use it for a reference and it seems the motor likes to be happy around 250. I find I am chasing the tune because I have yet to get anything consistent. While I was running the motor in for the first couple of tanks I figured this was acceptable but now that I have over a gallon on it I am starting to get a bit frustrated. The motor does not flame out, it does idle well, and it does have great power when it is in tune but the tune just keeps changing. Also does anyone feel that maybe the bottom end needle is more sensitive than the top or vise versa? Anyones thoughts? The motor is good just cant get it fine tuned yet.
#1347
Tech Regular
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 302
From: Virginia
JPZ - when I ran it last year (STRR, 30%, GRP 4 plug, Dyn 53 pipe), it took about a gallon or so before it was run in. That being said, I idled a tank, then drove around on the ground for 2 tanks (all the while keeping the head around 200 degrees), and then raced it (albeit easy the first race with it). The stock plug is too cold...the GRP 4 works great. I also tuned mine with the LSN first...preheat the engine, and run it a bit...bring it in after a high speed run and listen for the idle..if it is idleing high, and then drops down, you are too rich on the LSN..lean it out, run it a few passes, and repeat test..once you have a consistant idle, you will likely have to lower the idle speed via idle screw, as well as richen the top end a bit...make high speed passes adjusting the HSN until the motor pulls strongly from a standstill to top speed (smoking all the way). Mine always ran cool....the hottest I ever saw it was around 215 after a 30 minute main (90 degree heat outside). Many times it would come off the track a 190-195. I was getting about 9 1/2 minutes a tank.
#1348
Tech Initiate
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 43
+1 on preheating the motor i have done it for all but 1 tank im at roughly a gallon on mine and the 1 time i did not preheat the motor it was acting as you describe it took about half a tank to warm up and was at perfect tune it was way rich while it was warming up so i would preheat to about 180 run a few laps and tune from there and as stated above get the low needle set first and tune the high end from there. its hard to tune the motor before its up to temp
#1349
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,905
From: SOMEWHERE LUVIN ME SOME RC
im gonna go out on a limb here
and say you have the hsn to lean if your temping 250 as a reference ....and yes the lsn is more sensative than most ...and yes you should run it richer up top and leaner on the bottom ....but the fact that it wont hold a tune at a gallon is kinda odd ...even during break in my tuned would hold a tune for longer than the time frame you are giving ....it did bounce around a little just like with any motor breaking in ...i have just under 2 gallons on mine and it has never lost a tune after about the 1/2 gallon mark ...im sure you checked everything out ...but if its that irratic ...you may have another issue than the motor ....the non-tuned i would think would run a few 10-15 degrees hotter than the tuned because the head is not drilled ...but i wouldnt think it wouldnt like to run at 250 degrees ....just inmho ...my .02 from what ive seen mine and every other grp locally act like ....have you tried setting the needles back to factory settings and starting over ....heres the settings for the tuned ...i have a nip non tuned but i havent measured the needles yet ...but i would think it would be the same ...it looks the same when i pulled the non tuned out the box
HSN=3.5 TURNS OUT FROM BOTTOM
LSN = 6.5 TURNS OUT FROM BOTTOM
IDLE GAP = 1-1.5MM
it wont run like this but at least you will have a startin g point to get back to right ...lean the lsn one small hour at a time until it will idle on the box then tune from there ....and like my man up there said you cannot tune this motor in a hurry or really even on the box ....warm it up with at least 5-6 hard laps before you say its warmed up ...hope that helps
and say you have the hsn to lean if your temping 250 as a reference ....and yes the lsn is more sensative than most ...and yes you should run it richer up top and leaner on the bottom ....but the fact that it wont hold a tune at a gallon is kinda odd ...even during break in my tuned would hold a tune for longer than the time frame you are giving ....it did bounce around a little just like with any motor breaking in ...i have just under 2 gallons on mine and it has never lost a tune after about the 1/2 gallon mark ...im sure you checked everything out ...but if its that irratic ...you may have another issue than the motor ....the non-tuned i would think would run a few 10-15 degrees hotter than the tuned because the head is not drilled ...but i wouldnt think it wouldnt like to run at 250 degrees ....just inmho ...my .02 from what ive seen mine and every other grp locally act like ....have you tried setting the needles back to factory settings and starting over ....heres the settings for the tuned ...i have a nip non tuned but i havent measured the needles yet ...but i would think it would be the same ...it looks the same when i pulled the non tuned out the box HSN=3.5 TURNS OUT FROM BOTTOM
LSN = 6.5 TURNS OUT FROM BOTTOM
IDLE GAP = 1-1.5MM
it wont run like this but at least you will have a startin g point to get back to right ...lean the lsn one small hour at a time until it will idle on the box then tune from there ....and like my man up there said you cannot tune this motor in a hurry or really even on the box ....warm it up with at least 5-6 hard laps before you say its warmed up ...hope that helps



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