no problem ...i dont have the standard i have the tuned ....didnt you say yours was a powerhouse motor ? if so it should run about the same or better than the tuned ...mark does phenomenal work ...he did my trinity extech .24 and it rocks ...on the power band ...it is very smooth from top to bottom ....so smooth that it just doesnt even sound like any other motro you have heard run down a straight away ....when your running down a 100ft straight it should sound like its spooling but never really screaming winding out at the top ....those od plugs go 99 cold-med...97 medium ....77 hot ...keep in mind the colder it is the med.or hotter plug you might run ...the hotter it is the med colder plug you might run ...the 97 is a good all around plug ....good luck ...let everyone know how it goes

No , I just have the regular non-tuned grp. I traded my slash for it aand it is new so I think I got a good deal. How does the non tuned compare to the tuned. I heard that the non tuned has a bit better bottom but the tuned has better top and mileage. Ya it is going to be around 55 when I am running for the first time so I thought a medium plug would work, am I correct?

ok gotcha ..i have never run a non tuned ...but i would think the milage may be a little less and your probably right on the bottom end ...still should be awesome ...yes on the plug the 97 would be good ...it was 50-57 when i ran 2 weeks ago ....

aright great, I will lyk.

So what is the hot ticket on an exhaust for the tuned motor? Is the 2053 indeed the bomb or are there any other pipe header combos that work good?

The 2053 is a tame pipe for the tuned version. I changed the header to a Ninja long FLS which helped the tuned in a heavy truggy. I run a 053 which is close to the 2053 but a little bit freer and a 086 or 9886 for tracks with long straights. Long header on tight technical tracks for more bottom end or the short header on larger less technical tracks to open up the top end.

The Non-tuned crank has a bigger internal bore compared to the tuned but the tuned has alot more intake timing. There are pros and cons to both. The bigger bore slows the mixture velocity so the case doesn't pack as well so the engine will be smoother on the bottom and have less overall power. The Non tuned crank intake is small in diameter with a very short duration which will accellerate the mixture for a very short period of time to help maintain the velocity in the crank bore. The tuned crank has a smaller bore to keep the mixture velocity higher and with that needs more intake timing to get a better case fill. On the Non-tuned engines I have modified, I increase the intake timing beyond what the tuned version has and because the crank bore has a larger ID and the velocity will be a little slower, the extra induction timing gives the engine the case fill needed to perform well. To help round out the performance, I increse blowdown timing to give the engine a little more time to burn the increased cylinder pack and with that comes increased torque, peak horsepower and more rpm and depending on how you configure the timing will dictate he personality of the engine whether you want to hit hard and like a light switch or roll on power nice and smooth keeping the power to the ground. Thats a big reason why the two engine's have different running characteristics. The sleeves are the same, the stock port timing is the same, the compression is the same, the carb's are very similar, the cases are the same. The backplate's are slightly different but doesn't affect a thing and the rod's are slightly different also a non contributing factor to performance. Both team engines run side by side, hold the same temp and have the same milage. One with a knife edged rod and one without again proving an old myth wrong.

Someone please help!!
I am destroying flywheel collets on my GRP at a rate of one per race day. I am tightening the clutch nut quite snug, but sometimes the flywheel spins when on the starter box without turning the engine over.
If i tighten it as hard as I can (with threadlock), the same thing happens and the collet gets destroyed.
The engine is pretty new, 3 gallons, but at the same time, I have used 4 collets. I have tried a new clutch nut, checked the threads on the shaft (look OK, but not 100% sure). Apart from that, can anyone advise as to what may be causing this?

do you have a shim behind the collet? you might wanna try 2 shims behind the collet ...not sure on that one ...i do know if the collet is not shimmed right it will cause the flywheel to not tighten up...

have you tried shimming behind the collet if so what collit are you running because this also can make a differance also how old is your flywheel the inside of it could also be worn out

i have had this drama with the colets just out of interest what brand clutch are you running my losi clutch used to do this i found that the small collets that came with these flywheels were not deep enough and didnt seem penetrate in the fly wheel as much , i got the standard size collet and was much better no problem at all even better i went to a 3 shoe clutch system on my losi 8 2.0 much better but if you are having trouble with the losi size collet just try the standard ones worked for me .... mine used to come loose regulary on my car and that was with other motors aswell the grp but my brother has no problems at all with his

Another thing to look for is the collet may be too long and either flush with the top of the flywheel or just above and the nut may be bottoming out on the collet giving you a false tigtening effect. Also make sure you bearings in the case are seated all the way cause that could also cause problems. Try the shim behind the collet as mentioned before but I will bet it is something to do with the taper/length of the collit or the bearings not being seated. I have run flywheels with and without the shim and have been fine. The shim will help with spacing more than anything and you would know if the flywheel bottomed out on the engine case as it would not turn over. Other than that, can't really say what it is without seeing it.

Odds are that the tapered hole in the flywheel is now a little oversized from spinning on the collet. In most flywheels there is a shall shoulder in the tapered bore that the collet can botton out on. This can prevent the collet from going deep enough into the taper to tighten properly. If you file down the small diameter end of the collet about 1/32 of an inch the collet will seat deeper into the flywheel and most likely hold tight again.

Hi Guys,

Thank you all for the ideas. I am using the Losi steel flywheel with answer rc clutch shoes and springs. The flywheel is brand new, just added it last night.
I am definitely going to try the shim behind the collet as I think the clutch nut is bottoming out, with a false sense of tightness. Studied the old flywheel and found major slip damage on the inside where the clutch nut should be tight.
I tried the grp collet that came with the engine and fried that, so went back to losi collets, but as I said, keep frying those too.
I will shim behind the collet and try it out on Friday and will keep you posted.
Thanks again to all for the great ideas.

so how do the non tune perform is the power band as smooth as the nova 21 5k. Do it have a good low and top in i'm thinking about getting they are 209 at amainhobbies.