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Old 12-22-2008 | 11:17 AM
  #781  
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well i have my clutch set-up on my grp now just waiting till dec. 24th to get the 2.0... Im going to do the heat cycle(idle thru a couple tanks at 220, im going to let it do 4 tanks) then drive it around for for a couple tanks(1/4, 1/2,3/4, then full throttle blips) then take it to the track and start tuning it.



I was going to use my jp3 pipe and see how it did.


anyone have any different suggestions
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Old 12-23-2008 | 09:37 PM
  #782  
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Any updates on this question? I just got my non tuned version and it has 2 copper shims in the box. I run 30% OD.

Any help is appreciated.

Tony

Originally Posted by rrawrrrrr
I got the non tuned version.. (.21)

Um, do I need to add any shims to the head if I'm goin to run 30%?
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Old 12-23-2008 | 09:53 PM
  #783  
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Originally Posted by ade
Any updates on this question? I just got my non tuned version and it has 2 copper shims in the box. I run 30% OD.

Any help is appreciated.

Tony
I run the exact same fuel. You go with the GRP pipe/manifold? If so, lemme know how it works out

I can't really run mine though. need a new starter box.
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Old 12-23-2008 | 10:23 PM
  #784  
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I put 1 of the extra copper shims in only for breakin or about 3/4 gallon of fuel then removed it. I run a jp4 header with a dynamite 086 pipe this combo has good bottom but also lets the motor rip up quick! I run 30% byrons.
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Old 12-24-2008 | 08:45 AM
  #785  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
well i have my clutch set-up on my grp now just waiting till dec. 24th to get the 2.0... Im going to do the heat cycle(idle thru a couple tanks at 220, im going to let it do 4 tanks) then drive it around for for a couple tanks(1/4, 1/2,3/4, then full throttle blips) then take it to the track and start tuning it.



I was going to use my jp3 pipe and see how it did.


anyone have any different suggestions
well ive seen alot of people say the 053 dyn pipe wakes the motor up a good bit ...less restrictive than the 2053 grp pipe ...im gonna try mine with the 053 after i get it all the way broke in ...which with the hollidays will probably not happen until week after new years
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Old 12-24-2008 | 09:12 AM
  #786  
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i just picked the 053 pipe up. ill let u know how it goes
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Old 12-24-2008 | 01:41 PM
  #787  
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Can you guys help me out. I want to change the bearings in my GRP .21 do I have to use stock or is there a ceramic replacement. If so do you know where to get it and what size. Thanks
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Old 12-24-2008 | 02:45 PM
  #788  
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Originally Posted by Marcus Falconie
Can you guys help me out. I want to change the bearings in my GRP .21 do I have to use stock or is there a ceramic replacement. If so do you know where to get it and what size. Thanks
Rear Crank bearing 14 x 25.4 x 6
http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...roducts_id=157


Front Crank Bearing 7 x 19 x 6
http://tkocompetitiondev.com/product...roducts_id=156
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Old 12-24-2008 | 03:15 PM
  #789  
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sorry no grp pipe. I have a range of JP pipes (1-4). I was gonna try one of these prior to picking up a dynamite 053, which I hear works good too.

Originally Posted by rrawrrrrr
I run the exact same fuel. You go with the GRP pipe/manifold? If so, lemme know how it works out

I can't really run mine though. need a new starter box.
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Old 12-25-2008 | 01:12 PM
  #790  
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will they replace the carb on my grp? my motor isnt even broken in. i moved the part that the throttle linkage connects to(ball end) and tighten the screw and the part the screw goes into twisted off the whole assembly. i wasnt even puttin a lot of torque on the screw either i was tighten it just a little more then snug

if u dont understand heres the carb on amain i need the thing on the very left of the carb

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/28030
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Old 12-25-2008 | 10:05 PM
  #791  
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losi racer, same thing happened on my grp.21 or grp.28. any how amain has the part in stock under the ninja.28 parts page. I also tightened very lightly and the collar broke.
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Old 12-25-2008 | 10:21 PM
  #792  
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thanks, im going to give horizion a call tommrow.

Anyone have any tips on tuning this beast? i heard its hard and different to tune??

i idle thru 6 tanks of fuel today but ran out of light so i couldnt drive it so im going to drive it more tommrow. ill prob do like 3 tanks and slowly leaning it out then go ahead and start tuning.
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Old 12-25-2008 | 10:35 PM
  #793  
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I have had some major tuning issues with the GRP.21. I am no pro tuner so I could use some help. I have had some experience with the jammin jpx.21 &.28, os vspec & a few others with good results, but I am currently running the GRP.21 in buggy & GRP.28 in truggy (JAMMIN X1X CR & X2 TRUGGY) The GRP.28 tuned very easily but the .21 has been frustrating. The problem I have is that it seems like it is always running very fat off the bottom until it hits the mid. My current needle settings are aprox. 3 3/4 on HSN and 5 on LSN. If I lean out the top much more it continues to flame out. If I fatten the hsn back and lean out the lsn then it sounds lean and has little bottom end. I have tried to keep temps arround 190 -205. I run a fioroni turbo slider clutch, 13 tooth cb and a jammin jp3 or jp4 pipe(most the time the jp4 as it seems to help the bottom a little more. I have tried the c6 ,c5 ,c4 GRP plugs. I run BYRONS GEN2 30% and have tried running it with 1 extra shim and also stock shim set up. I have researched this thread and a lot of guys are running totally different needle settings. some say 3 1/2 hsn & 5 1/2 LSN & some are 6 hsn & 2 1/2 lsn. 2 1/2 lsn just seems way to lean and 6 to fat to even fire. Although when I called horizon hobbies for stock settings they gave me 6hsn & 2 1/2 lsn. HAVING 1 HECK OF A TIME WITH THIS ENGINE any thoughts or input would be appreciated. THANKS
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Old 12-26-2008 | 04:23 AM
  #794  
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I have the GRP Tuned .28 in my X2 CRT with the GRP pipe, #5 plug on 30% with 1 head shim.
So much power nothing will touch it in a drag up the straights, but with no carb restrictor it tends to load up with fuel. I need to lean the low end out to be sure of getting off the line without a flameout.
Leaner than I would prefer but it hasn't affected its reliability.
Sure I've only run about 30/35 tanks through it but when I pull it down for inspection it still looks new.
Dont be afraid of this motor....
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Old 12-26-2008 | 04:31 PM
  #795  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
thanks, im going to give horizion a call tommrow.

Anyone have any tips on tuning this beast? i heard its hard and different to tune??

i idle thru 6 tanks of fuel today but ran out of light so i couldnt drive it so im going to drive it more tommrow. ill prob do like 3 tanks and slowly leaning it out then go ahead and start tuning.
most of the tuning comes in from the lsn ...its kinda reversed from most engines ...from what i understand ...i have not ran mine at race tune ...but have seen plenty of them at the track ...all temping at 180-210 and running good ....i will go out on a limb and say your not gonna touch the top end alot ....mostly the bottom ....will know more as i get more fuel on it

Originally Posted by tristyn
I have had some major tuning issues with the GRP.21. I am no pro tuner so I could use some help. I have had some experience with the jammin jpx.21 &.28, os vspec & a few others with good results, but I am currently running the GRP.21 in buggy & GRP.28 in truggy (JAMMIN X1X CR & X2 TRUGGY) The GRP.28 tuned very easily but the .21 has been frustrating. The problem I have is that it seems like it is always running very fat off the bottom until it hits the mid. My current needle settings are aprox. 3 3/4 on HSN and 5 on LSN. If I lean out the top much more it continues to flame out. If I fatten the hsn back and lean out the lsn then it sounds lean and has little bottom end. I have tried to keep temps arround 190 -205. I run a fioroni turbo slider clutch, 13 tooth cb and a jammin jp3 or jp4 pipe(most the time the jp4 as it seems to help the bottom a little more. I have tried the c6 ,c5 ,c4 GRP plugs. I run BYRONS GEN2 30% and have tried running it with 1 extra shim and also stock shim set up. I have researched this thread and a lot of guys are running totally different needle settings. some say 3 1/2 hsn & 5 1/2 LSN & some are 6 hsn & 2 1/2 lsn. 2 1/2 lsn just seems way to lean and 6 to fat to even fire. Although when I called horizon hobbies for stock settings they gave me 6hsn & 2 1/2 lsn. HAVING 1 HECK OF A TIME WITH THIS ENGINE any thoughts or input would be appreciated. THANKS
you have your settings very close to stock ...someone said horizon=retards ...in an effort to dispell any rumor about stock needle settings ...i measured mine brand new out of the box ....never touched
hsn=3-1/2 turns out from bottom
lsn= 6 to 6-1/2 turns out from bottom

the lsn looks like another turn and it will fall out ....this being said when braking in ...i had to lean the lsn 1/2-3/4 of a turn and the hsn i left alone ...and could idle it for like hours ..again im not broke in yet so i wont know fully till i am ....also consider the fioroni clutch(which i ran my first full year of nitro ...they work ok and are low m/a ...but i had them cause some problems on the low end when i was running gotechs ....do you have all standard springs on it ? if so ...you may wanna try 1 standard in the front and 1 standard and 1 hard in the rear ...possibly even 1 hard up front and 1 standard and 1 hard in the rear ..also if youve been running them for longer than 3-5 races becuase you thought they never wear out ..trust me they do wear out allthough the shoes dont ...was just a thought ...also you may try an 053 pipe none efra as many have said it wakes the bottom up ...im breaking in with the grp 2053 then going directly to the 053 as it has less restriction ....hope that helped anyways ...later
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