Sorry I missed the question. I have a race mod and a turbo mod. The race mod is good but the turbo mod feels like a completely new engine. I run it in an 8T 2.0 so I wanted a little more torque and powerhouse did exactly that. There is not much on the track that I cant outrun. The turbo spools up quicker and revs higher. It runs best with the 053 pipe and when I get the tunning right I get 11-11.5 min. I ran a .21 tuned version last year so I am very familiar with the GRP engines. The powerhouse engine is far superior, like night and day difference. Mark at powerhouse is the man.

053 is a great pipe for this engine. Much better over the GRP 2053.

hey guys, just dropping because I have a quick question,

One of my friends bought the .21 rally tuned engine for his truggy. I really can't find any info on that engine and I was curious on how it preforms compered to the .21 buggy tuned,

Has anyone else heard that GRP is shutting down?

i heard that mario was leavibg grp which raises the question will grp still be making these motors ?

Are these the o-rings for the carb restrictors? It seems like every time I take out the restrictor the bottom o-ring is stretched and won't go back in.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/23854

This is what I just found on Mario leaving GRP.But can't find anything on them ckosing.I hope not I love the engine's.As long as there production stays the same why would they. Neobuggy has a email he wrote to them on there site.

does anyone have Alan Burton's email?? Tried contacting him, but nothing....

[email protected]
205-601-5578

they arent shutting down ..they are going to streamline there distribution chain to cut costs and pass the savings on to customers ..they will probably be with horizon losi for another year ...mike truhe is still running grp and has signed up to do so for the rest of the year ....about 2 months ago they made a statement on neo-buggy iluding to the fact that this is what they were doing....go to neo buggy and search the news section and type in gandini ....you can folllow the progression ......

how about the engine? will it be the same power as the rossi tuned ones? how about the new product that already breakin by mario rossi, thus the production continues?

on the "rossi-tuned" version i mean the only difference in that and the standard motor is port-timing exhaust-timing and crank size .....also that the tuned version has the nice coating and treatment on the internals ...its not like he laid hands on them and did anything to them ....inmho .....mark at powerhouse rc performance ...has spec'd out each motor and found this to be true ....check his thread out here and search through the last coup,e of pages ......
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...ngines-46.html

i few pages back he goes into more detail about it

Ok so i had to get on here and say that i now have about a gallon on my tuned .21 and at first was happy with the motor i was running a jp 2 pipe and i felt the bottom end was awfull so this weekend i switched to the dynamite 086 and all i can say is im not happy anymore im completely in heaven this mill has so much power it unreal and 12 minutes run time with the 6 mm restrictor also temps are starting to drop and its really coming in to its own so i dont know if the jammin pipes bog this motor down or what but the dynamite pipes are a dream for this engine

I got me a .28 truggy tuned motor jsut got it and what after run oil would you guys recomend for it the last nitro cars i had i never used it, so are they pretty much the same or are some brands better?

I raced my tuned modded .21 this weekend it has just over a gal on it. During the quals it was running 220's then after the 25 mn main it must have. Broken in completly because power was up and when of came after the track after 25 min it came in at 175. I was suprised and so was my pit guy. I am having one issue that I need help with. After comming down the straight I hit the breaks go into the 180 and stab the gas and it bogs for just a sec. I changed the clutch shoes and springs. And it still does it. I am thinking it's a lean bog but it runs good. Good smoke and good power just this one area where power is not there 4 a sec. Any ideas top of bottom to lean to rich. Thanks.

frank what pipe are you running i had the same thing with my jammin pipe i switched to the dynalite and all is good to me the low end needle wants to run about 2 hours lean from where it came out of the box

what is the allowable tolerance for the crank pin and the rod...mine is 4.94mm for the crank pin and 5.02mm for the rod...time for replacement or not?

thanks for any replies
C.R.

Your about right where I am on the lsn. Just thought I would throw a few things out here. The stumple that people are feeling in the mid range can be normal at some point even running the grp pipe. I know that when alan burton helped me with mine to make sure it was right after I broke it in. He kept saying listen for the little hesitation in the middle of a smooth trigger pull. By smooth I mean pulling lightly all they way through not just jerking full trigger. He said it was about normal for these motors to have that stumble in the mid range. It also probably been said but the motor shouldn't feel like its winding out on the straights. It should feel and sound like its lugging the whole way. While generating smooth consistent power from bottom to top. Besides the stumble he mentioned. Was also gonna throw out yall may wanna check your bearings at the gallon break in mark. I had bought tko's and was gonna put em in about 2 gallons mark. Took my tuned apart to check it out at a gallon. And the front bearing was tanks away from going south. Real rough and gritty. Tko's solved that.
I've gotta think that burton driving for team losi and grp and horizon. Knows the grp inside and out. I just watched how he tuned his asked questions and listened to what he had to say. And it help me out a bunch.

Anyone know the factory settings on the MR Ninja B01A, should in theory be quite similar to the GRP tuned.
No guesses, please!

I'm very pleased to read about other engines acting like this. This is what I've been experiencing so far. I kind of thought the engine would smooth out after time but if not then oh well. She's performing great and tuning very well. I"m not worrying too much after hearing this.

I am using the dynamite 053 pipe. I have a dynamite 086 that I am going to try this weekend at a large track. The last few tracks I have been racing on were small indoor to med outdoor. Oh BTH I am running in an 8t 2.0.

When my engines are tuned perfect they are just as zixxer has described. If I warm them up, make a few passes, and then come to a stop and very smoothly roll onto the throttle you will get a slight "mid range" transition sound or whatever you want to call it. This will not be noticed on the track and under race conditions. After sitting for say a couple minutes of idle once you pull full throttle the bottom should have "NOT" loaded up very much at all and have no risk of flaming due to loading up within thta time frame. Top end should pull well but won't have that scream some other engines will.

I always get whoevers engine idling well first with the bottom, start with the top rich on the track and work it in until it's sounding good.

Mine sounds a lot like that also. I was practicing with another guy the other day and noticed how mine sounded like it was rich and his engine was much higher pitched (not sure what it was). Despite the sound, mine was keeping up with his.

has anyone tried the Losi Pipe R-10 on these mills??

V.I.P. thanks for popping in ....alan is really good with these motors as he is sponsered by them ....he knows them upside down and backwards ....listen to the words that are coming off his key board ...he the man on some grp's

thats why people get them to lean up top because they dont sound the same as most motors when they get on the pipe ....as long as your keeping up or pulling someone i dont care what it sounds like .....rock on :nod:

So how much fuel did anybody else have to run through there motors before they "really" were broken in. I have over a gallon through my non tuned grp and the motor just wont hold a tune.
It still has a lot of pinch but every time I start the motor up it is pig rich and not making any power. I let the motor warm up, retune the carb until the motor runs good but by the time I run the tank low and come in for a refuel it richens right back up! I am not worried about numbers on the temp gun but I do use it for a reference and it seems the motor likes to be happy around 250. I find I am chasing the tune because I have yet to get anything consistent. While I was running the motor in for the first couple of tanks I figured this was acceptable but now that I have over a gallon on it I am starting to get a bit frustrated. The motor does not flame out, it does idle well, and it does have great power when it is in tune but the tune just keeps changing. Also does anyone feel that maybe the bottom end needle is more sensitive than the top or vise versa? Anyones thoughts? The motor is good just cant get it fine tuned yet.

JPZ - when I ran it last year (STRR, 30%, GRP 4 plug, Dyn 53 pipe), it took about a gallon or so before it was run in. That being said, I idled a tank, then drove around on the ground for 2 tanks (all the while keeping the head around 200 degrees), and then raced it (albeit easy the first race with it). The stock plug is too cold...the GRP 4 works great. I also tuned mine with the LSN first...preheat the engine, and run it a bit...bring it in after a high speed run and listen for the idle..if it is idleing high, and then drops down, you are too rich on the LSN..lean it out, run it a few passes, and repeat test..once you have a consistant idle, you will likely have to lower the idle speed via idle screw, as well as richen the top end a bit...make high speed passes adjusting the HSN until the motor pulls strongly from a standstill to top speed (smoking all the way). Mine always ran cool....the hottest I ever saw it was around 215 after a 30 minute main (90 degree heat outside). Many times it would come off the track a 190-195. I was getting about 9 1/2 minutes a tank.

+1 on preheating the motor i have done it for all but 1 tank im at roughly a gallon on mine and the 1 time i did not preheat the motor it was acting as you describe it took about half a tank to warm up and was at perfect tune it was way rich while it was warming up so i would preheat to about 180 run a few laps and tune from there and as stated above get the low needle set first and tune the high end from there. its hard to tune the motor before its up to temp

im gonna go out on a limb here:lol:and say you have the hsn to lean if your temping 250 as a reference ....and yes the lsn is more sensative than most ...and yes you should run it richer up top and leaner on the bottom ....but the fact that it wont hold a tune at a gallon is kinda odd ...even during break in my tuned would hold a tune for longer than the time frame you are giving ....it did bounce around a little just like with any motor breaking in ...i have just under 2 gallons on mine and it has never lost a tune after about the 1/2 gallon mark ...im sure you checked everything out ...but if its that irratic ...you may have another issue than the motor ....the non-tuned i would think would run a few 10-15 degrees hotter than the tuned because the head is not drilled ...but i wouldnt think it wouldnt like to run at 250 degrees ....just inmho ...my .02 from what ive seen mine and every other grp locally act like ....have you tried setting the needles back to factory settings and starting over ....heres the settings for the tuned ...i have a nip non tuned but i havent measured the needles yet ...but i would think it would be the same ...it looks the same when i pulled the non tuned out the box

HSN=3.5 TURNS OUT FROM BOTTOM
LSN = 6.5 TURNS OUT FROM BOTTOM
IDLE GAP = 1-1.5MM

it wont run like this but at least you will have a startin g point to get back to right ...lean the lsn one small hour at a time until it will idle on the box then tune from there ....and like my man up there said you cannot tune this motor in a hurry or really even on the box ....warm it up with at least 5-6 hard laps before you say its warmed up ...hope that helps:tire:

just wanted to let everyone know that i found a deal on the tuned version, $261 to the door with the $25 coupon. i have mine on the way.

I had exactly the same problems with my GRP .21 Tuned. After reading some other forums someone suggested to try a different carburetor which helped him to stop the tuning problems. I used one from my RB S7 and the problems are gone. The engine is running great now en holds it's tune.

Thanks for the replies. I will take the motor back to the original settings and retune.

Make sure you don't let the lid slap shut. That will cause the car to go rich after a fuel stop.

why is that?

Yeah, I can see a very quick pressure increase when the lid closes but it should equalize very quickly.:confused:

Check the needles on your carb very closely. On my GRP, the o-rings for the low and high speed needles were shot, and the needles were backing out due to engine vibration when the engine was running (causing the motor to run richer and richer). Drove me nuts, till I replaced the o-rings.

I just got to thinking about the mixture changing when refueling problem. Could the fuel temperature have something to do with it? When you are running the exhaust going into the tank could heat up the fuel. When you refill it with cool fuel could it make it run richer? Just thinking out of the box here.

Try lengthening the pressure hose. When the fuel gets lower in the tank I looses pressure. Then when you refill, the pressure comes back up making it force more fuel in. Just a thought.

That is an idea. I had a helicopter that had that problem. You would have to start out rich to keep it from leaning out too much.

question i have the 086 pipe and 6 mm restrictor in and my track is on the medium to small side there are some guys running tourque pipes on the buggy and get better run up to some of the jumps i keep up just fine but feel the bottom is a little soft for these conditions. if i switch to the 053 will it have more bottom end like the tourque pipe or should i just go with the 007