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i wouldnt recommend the .21 buggy engine in the truggy, i raced my x2with it last weekend it was fast, just didnt have enough bottom for a few of the jumps, as far as the straightaway it stayed with anything, it was just on one of the jumps it just didnt have enough, i went lastnight and practiced with my x2 with my os speed with jp3 and it was much stronger on the bottom and had no issues with that jump, i like the grp in my buggy alot it has more then enough bottom in it, just gotta run the right pipe and right plug and insert, if you wanna run a grp tuned i would recommend it for the buggy and just put your speed in the truggy, or get a speed for the truggy i sell them on here for 400.00 shipped or ebay for 400.00 plus shipping
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I had a picco P3 28 and a JP P5 mod for my last CRT and I found the 21 gave me more consistent laps time and the fuel mileage is awesome. That is why i want a 21 in my new truggy.
I was told the the normal OS vspec has better bottom end than the speed, is it true? |
yes the speed is a little softer on the bottom but i found it has more then enough, the grp was just a little to soft , i havent tried the grp .28 i dont like the idea of the fuel economy going away, i have allways run .21's in my truggies in the past, the grp tuned is really good in the buggy, just wouldnt recommend the .21 for the truggy, i have actually run the speed and the grp in the same truck with the same gearing at the same track with the same tires and conditions, the speed just was able to make more bottom to clear the jumps better, as far as the straight aways and going from turn to turn they are about the same, fuel economy is really similar as well, i run the grp with the associated 2035 pipe with long header and 7mm restrictor with p3 os plug its an animal in the buggy and was fast in the truggy just didnt quite have enough pop
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Originally Posted by ultragraffics
(Post 4850831)
Jonro - Pull your carb apart and inspect your slide. i have a feeling that it has a bur on it where the idle gap is adjusted. I would be lead to believe thats what happened...
This can happen when you adjust the idle without pulling throttle slightly.. Dremel the bur off or use some scotchbrite. Also when you remove the burr dont be afraid chuck up the slide on a drill and run it some while in the carb body. It helps free it up some and may prevent additional sticking. Some guys have this problem some dont. It seems hit or miss. Hope that helped... |
No problem...
These are great engines. They just don;t have all the little quirks ironed out quite yet. They are well worth the little extra effort though... |
Originally Posted by Jonro
(Post 4850783)
First off i have to say this engine is running awesome, nearing the 4ltr mark.
But im having major problems with the carb binding with the engine in my 8ight and flexing of the radio tray, which in an 8ight can only mean certain death for a servo. I've tried adjusting my linkage and carb set-up every which way possible, different length servo arms and all. The funny thing is when the engine is cold and i think i have it set right the carb movement is buttery Smooth and no radio tray flex at all but when it gets any heat into it its a totally different story. When up to temp it totally binds up, so bad that it wont get past half throttle. I've tried adjusting this thing every way possible, different length servo arms, different carb rotation positions and different ball linkage positions. No matter how good i get it when its cold, once it heats up it binds like hell. Any ideas? I love this engine so much that im almost to the point of selling this damn 8ight with its stupid servo set-up and getting a conventional servo tray set-up buggy.
Originally Posted by ultragraffics
(Post 4850831)
Jonro - Pull your carb apart and inspect your slide. i have a feeling that it has a bur on it where the idle gap is adjusted. I would be lead to believe thats what happened...
This can happen when you adjust the idle without pulling throttle slightly.. Dremel the bur off or use some scotchbrite. Also when you remove the burr dont be afraid chuck up the slide on a drill and run it some while in the carb body. It helps free it up some and may prevent additional sticking. Some guys have this problem some dont. It seems hit or miss. Hope that helped...
Originally Posted by Jonro
(Post 4853711)
Aww! i really don't wannabe pulling apart my brand new GRP carb, but i guess it has to be done, it cant be good for it anyway the way it is binding up atm. Thanks ultragraffics.
Originally Posted by ultragraffics
(Post 4853737)
No problem...
These are great engines. They just don;t have all the little quirks ironed out quite yet. They are well worth the little extra effort though... About putting the slide in a drill and spinning it in the body for a while, should i heat up the body and slide first then try that? as its really smooth when its cold and i cant see that doing much when its cold. Thanks for any help. |
does it still bind if you remove the linkage and operate it manually? I had the same problem till I got the linkage lined up straight.
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Originally Posted by desertbird
(Post 4857939)
does it still bind if you remove the linkage and operate it manually? I had the same problem till I got the linkage lined up straight.
http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/xcga...TruheTQ008.JPG |
Originally Posted by desertbird
(Post 4857939)
does it still bind if you remove the linkage and operate it manually? I had the same problem till I got the linkage lined up straight.
It really is nice and smooth when cold absolutely no binding at all, soon as it gets heat into, binding. So frustrating! |
Originally Posted by Jonro
(Post 4858938)
yea when its hot it gets tight and crunchy, add in a linkage of any sort and bam it binds. I've tried adjusting this thing every way possible, different length servo arms, different carb rotation positions and different ball linkage positions. No matter how good i get it when its cold, once it heats up it binds like hell.
It really is nice and smooth when cold absolutely no binding at all, soon as it gets heat into, binding. So frustrating! Well, call me a noob, but when I had my eight, it did the exact same thing you are referring to...it did it with 3 different engines to boot....I spent hours on the throttle linkage too....I have not had a stuck carb in my three rides after I got rid of the 8ight....the 8ight is a good and fast car, but the throttle servo setup and linkage is very, very picky...good luck with it |
When I had my grp based ninjas and losi cars, i had the carb binding. No matter how much i messed with the linkages, i could never make it smooth. my only solution was to grease the carb barrel each race day. it solved all my problems, no more hitting jumps with the throttle sticking, worked well. just a negative to the losi with grp based motors.
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Originally Posted by gtsum
(Post 4859065)
Well, call me a noob, but when I had my eight, it did the exact same thing you are referring to...it did it with 3 different engines to boot....I spent hours on the throttle linkage too....I have not had a stuck carb in my three rides after I got rid of the 8ight....the 8ight is a good and fast car, but the throttle servo setup and linkage is very, very picky...good luck with it
I think ill be switching to ether the 808 or the MBX6, i think ive spent just as much time, if not more messing with the linkage and servos on this 8ight than i have driving it. |
they did address the servo tray with the 2.0
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Originally Posted by desertbird
(Post 4859232)
they did address the servo tray with the 2.0
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promo kit ?'s
about to order a .21 buggy promo kit, What carb inserts come in the promo kit? And which other brand inserts fit the GRP? I will be running a Losi engine in an Associated buggy.....quit laughing
Thanks Guys |
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