hello bsmooth

i talked to RODY this morning and the engines should be available in another week or two, we have had released alot of new engines since the toy fair in germany and are just trying to keep up with it all.

the pricing is not set in stone yet so i do not want to open up my mouth on it but what i can tell you is this

according to Rody the engine block has been beefed up, similar to the MSC (massive stiff case) design on all of our nova based engines.

the rear main bearing will be ceramic instead of steel, the carburator is aluminum and not composite and thats basically it. i have asked about a modified version of the engine but have not heard anything back on that one yet.

the engine from what i hear is just stupid fast, cant say its faster than the old xenonr, but with the new upgrades to the engine its surely going to be a competitor at the big races.

That's great to hear dremelboy, and thanks for keeping us in the loop. HMMM rebuild the MaxPower and +21 or save for the Alpha------The Alpha fo' sho'

Whats the difference between Matrix R and Matrix RW? Is it just EFRA vs IFMAR/ROAR compliance?

Just got home from the track after breaking in my first RB R3 (stock out the box). Half a gallon later, still running a little rich and WOW... :eek: :nod:

Definitely the fastest all around motor I've ever run. Low end like a picco and still pulling effortlessly at the end of a 240' straight. :D

where do guys get your RB products?

which pipe combo do you use with R3. normally the break-in time is long for the NR base engine... have such a problem

Contact RB USA to find out where best to get your motor from. ;)

I'm using the 2604 pipe.

A good source for RB engines online is Winners Circle http://www.gasrccar.com
The online shop owner is Lee Muse and he also runs RB in his 1/8th on-road car. He is very helpful on the phone or by email and ships very promptly. Take a look, I know you will be pleased.
Roger

nova 2630 with short header. I always break my engines in slow. You can't hurt an engine with a slow break in but you can easily turn it into junk with to fast a break in. ;)

R3 temperature Range
 

Just broke in my RB R3 yesterday, motor was 2.75 turns in LSN, 5.5 turns in HSN, RB 6 Plug, 40mm shims in head, 40% nitro fuel, Doing lots of smoke coming out of the turns, but running really hot 148 C (298 F) and running rich, still needed to close HSN, to perform

This is my first RB

My Question is, Do these engines Run Hotter than 300F? like Nova P12, any Needle setting you may recommend?

Tanks

The nitro % and head shimming are not good at all. I would recommend using 16%, 20%, or at most 25%. The head shimming should be:

16% = stock (.3mm; one silver shim)
20% = .4mm
25% = .5mm

40% nitro is WAY too much content. :eek:

Your motor was probably detonating with that high of content and so low of shimming. If so, the head button should be ashen looking and pitted.

How many tanks did you run it like this? During my own motors *rich* break-in, the temp was around 200F while it four-stroked around the track. I had the following settings at that time (10 tanks):

HSN: 5.5 turns out
LSN: 2.5 turns out

These motors don't run that hot at all. After leaning it out for another 10 tanks, the temp was around 260F-265F. It just finally broke in yesterday, after a little more than a full gallon of fuel, and the temp went down to 220F, still slightly rich, but running pretty strong. :nod:

Tanks Teamgp

I´m running 40mm with 40% nitro because I live in Mexico City, 2250m or 7400 feet above sea level, so have to compensate lack of Oxygen. Most of the guys I run with have 30mm head with 40% Nitro Plug 7

Mi first Break in was heat gun and start for 125 ml rich idle 6 turns HSN
left cool down and re heat with gun and another 125ml 5.5 turns HSN and let cool down
checked head and very light amber color
again heated with gun and ran on track for 450ml lots of smoke never let car shift to 2nd gear, then let cool
After that started with 2.5 HSN and 6 HSN and leaned 1/8 to test performance on track till 5.5 HSN, lots of smoke and very high temp we tested for 125 ml,
After seen In your method 4000ml 1 gallon my guess is I need more break in time .

My R3 is a Murnan Modified version. Uriah himself told me that he was also running this motor at the time & 310 to 320 deg was normal & that I should just keep checking the plug & not worry about the temp. My last race it was running around 290 & was just beastly.

Acctually it is to hot. If you run long finals in this deg. You will loose after 15 min. your power! I had the same problems with my mm 353. I have to run the engine about 270 F. But after 15 min the engine loose power and I have to richen the engine. but under 270F is the engine not fast enough. The most importend is, How long did you drove the engine 310-320F ?

Jamie thanx for your help with the engines I needed last month. Antonino was easy to work with. It's sad to hear about the dicontinued units. Thanx Again Fab in CT:tire: