345? I'm sure you were hot if you say so. I haven't been able to get my car that hot without it leanbogging to the point where it stalls.

You weren't doing high speed runs on the street or in the open were you? Keep in mind the car leans out the faster it goes.

If your useing good fuel watch for smoke for the first half of your straight.




Its easy to tell if an engine went too lean. The sleeve will have verticle lines in it. Like a smooth spot then a regular spot then a smooth spot again. If you sleeve still looks uniform and has decent pinch and compression your fine, unless a bearing had metal to metal contact at speed due to no fuel oil.

I am a relative noob to the nitro world and have just picked up an RB Speedline J3 engine. Can anyone shed any light on this engine, there seems to be a relative lack of info on the engine on the net. Is it similar to the original V12 turbo? Is it similar to the newer R3 ?

Yes, i'd like to know more about the J3 aswell, i can not find any info on it anywhere, not even on the RB site.

My father is having all sorts of dramas trying to run it in (sticking to the instructions) It gets hot (not overly) but mainly because it won't run long enough.
We aren't sure if its a engine problem or an issue with the clutch on his new Serpent 720
We havn't had this problem before with any OS or Novarossi engine we have. Only with a Collari that we would get it tuned well, run one tank through it, then the next it wouldn't run. It was the hardest to tune motor we have ever come across.
We eventually shelved that motor

Any good pipe i could pair the R3???

Come on guys!
Doesn't anybody know anything about these RB motors.
This engine is really getting to me.
Its going to end up an expensive paper weight very soon. :flaming:

Its just won't run any longer than 1/4 of a tank.
Lean it, richen it high speed, low speed nothing seems to work. It does the opposite to everything i would thing, richen it and it gets hotter, leaning it doesn't help, still cuts out, and there is plenty of smoke.

Again, only ever had a problem with this motor and a collari. Have several Nova Rossi's and OS motors and they never miss a beat

contact rb directly, your account seems strange... you are richen it up and still nothing??:weird: check your spark if its a hot get rid of it and use a cold one(hope this helps)...

Check if it has any airleaks, also check the tank and exhaust if they provide enough pressure. But to me it sounds like the engine isn't completely air tight.

change to another carb and try again...:nod:

This engine is brand spanking new going into a brand new car, so it shouldn't have any air leaks or need a new carby.
We have however found that the low speed needle was pre set at one turn out from closed, the instructions say 2.5. Reset that, but still didn't change anything.

It will start easy, run for maybe 3-4 minutes at slow speed then stop, and it cant restart, if you listen it sounds like the fuel is boiling inside the crank case. Head temp at the glow plug is 240deg F at that time. Temp guage has been checked and is accurate

Two more things to try:

1. Try another fuel tank.

2. Try some fresh fuel. This sounds like a bad fuel issue to me. Seen it a hundred times.

Just because it is new doesn't mean there aren't any air leaks or carb problems.

It seems we have found the problem.
The low speed needle was pre set far too lean. 1 1/2 turns to far.
Took it back to what the instructions say, and, its not perfect yet, but its getting very close now.

Either way.

Why is there absolutely no information on this engine, not even by RB themselves?

There have been a lot of changes at RB in the last few months. May take some time for them to get it all worked out. Plus, no more Rody to chat with :cry:

Hi, I have now had some time to play with the J3, despite being a nitro noob, I managed to get a reasonable tune out of it after break-in. It has been on the track but appears to lack some pace compared to the cars running R3s (as expected). I will have to properly tune the clutch engangement but first impressions are that it will make for a good club-race engine.
I have opened it up and checked out the internals, all I can say is that it looks bread and butter, although surfaces look smooth and well machined, the sleeve isn't ported for flow etc....

Hey guys, I have a RB R3 motor and would like to know how soon after break-in do u suggest I change the rod? Does anyone know if the rod from the 353 is the same as the R3?

Thanks.