Guys, need advise, after i ran byron 25k/9% for5/7gallon, remove break in shim .2shim for go 5port n udp 4 port.

I experience increase in power, both engine temp around 95-110°c. I blow 3plugs which is 2 os p3 n 1 argus t3 with good smoke.

Should i switch to colder plug? Ambient temperature around 32-35°c

Try an O.S P4, only slightly cooler but a good plug. I have been using the P4's in my GO 5 port (modded GX5R) & they have been great, never blown one, also the P5 is worth a look, both work well in my engine.
The P3 has a very thin coil, easier for it to be damaged/broken.
My fuel is 25/10 with full synthetic bio oil.

Thanks then no more issue

Cera engine is Long/Short stroke? Looking for pipe now

Cera is a 3 + 2 short-stroke.

Cera engine combo pipe
 

I saw in ebay (german seller) combo pipe 2103, other than that, will the 2072 suitable?

VP pro has the 2103 pipe as well as Arrow parts to fit
http://www.vpprousa.com/826/arrow-ra...ipe-set-detail

hope this cera engine produce good power like underdog project 4 port

Other than Pato (@tabushi) I don't know anyone who is running the Cera. If he checks in here again maybe he can tell you.

Illl be getting one soon here.

I love the underdog project. Without information for cera. I will gamble with it. Hope it was insane motor like udp

Does this apply to both short and long low speed needles??

http://go-racing.vpweb.co.nz/Tuning-Guide.html

Yep, should work the same on both types of carburettor.
Starting flush on both needles is a precaution that means you can never start off too lean by mistake.
The .5mm - .7mm idle gap is pretty universal, then setting the idle speed with the low speed needle gets the relationship between these two correct right from the start.
The most common cause of tuning problems is the idle gap ending up too big - causing a very rich bottom end, and a lean top end in order for the motor to run half decent.
Setting the gap at the start (then not touching it) and then tuning around it, makes it way easier to get the air / fuel ratio (idle gap vs low speed needle setting) correct.

Then just lean the top end for performance, then go back and re set the idle speed with the low speed needle again (as leaning the top end will have also indirectly leaned the low speed as well - raising the idle up). So richen the low speed if necessary to get the idle back down - then you are good to go.

Anyone tested cera? If compare to gx2 plus?

Cera and GXII Plus
 

Pato Concha is running the Cera in South America. He says it is an "amazing little engine" and he is running it in both buggy in truggy and is going to start testing it in 1/8 on road. He mentioned that the Cera was in the car that won the Argentinian national truggy championship last year.

I just received a report about the GXII Plus from a driver that just finished breaking one in. He raced it for the first time last weekend and he said the bottom end was "finicky" with a fine line between rich and lean. He eventually got the tune down and in his words started "hauling the mail." He was pulling the pack down the straights and he wound up qualifying 4th for the Amain. In the Amain he was running in 2nd place when a hole opened up in the carb boot and he started sucking air and that ended his run. In terms of fuel economy he reports he is getting 12 minute run times.

I hope this helps.