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-   -   Go-Tech Engines Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/177028-go-tech-engines-thread.html)

ChampionRC 03-21-2014 05:53 PM


Originally Posted by cczjordan (Post 13079457)
I'm having trouble to run my go 5 port silver head after resting it for 3 weeks, it will die if WOT or run after few minutes. already changed a new OS p3 plug, have been leaning the LSN and not working, riching HSn also not working. Anyway it will run good with igniter on.*Is it good to tune it to factory setting? plz assist. thanks in advance.

I tried richening but no improvement.

i suspect the conrod the engine stil new with a tone of compression, or carburetor? Plz help


It sounds to me like you are lean on top.

I would reset the HSN and LSN to flush.

Lean the LSN 1/1/4 turns in.

Lean HSN 1/4 turn in.

Check your plug as well , if it has been fouled it may give you grief.

Clean your air filter properly and use a basic oil like castor as your filter oil. The motorbike oil ( blue ) is usually too thick... some of these new air filter oils have some chemical in them that makes engines flame. We don't know what it is yet but when having similar problems we have cleaned the air filter and changed the oil and it made a huge improvement.

Hope this helps.

cczjordan 03-23-2014 07:24 AM

i did everything i can:

1. reset to flush - still flame out
2. replace with novarossi carb - stil flame out
3. replace new air filter - still flame out
4. replace new glow plug (argus, O.S) - stil flame out.

Note: compression still tight at TDC.

Additional question is can the go 7port P/S/C fit into this silver head 5 port? i plan to replace it.

Thanks in advance

22Racer 03-23-2014 08:39 AM


Originally Posted by cczjordan (Post 13122233)
i did everything i can:

1. reset to flush - still flame out
2. replace with novarossi carb - stil flame out
3. replace new air filter - still flame out
4. replace new glow plug (argus, O.S) - stil flame out.

Note: compression still tight at TDC.

Additional question is can the go 7port P/S/C fit into this silver head 5 port? i plan to replace it.

Thanks in advance

Yes the 7 port p/s/r will be a direct fit.

Did you set the idle gap? The hsn starting point is flush but probably will need to be turned in from there. When it flames out is it blubbering like there is too much fuel or does it sound like it is running out of fuel?

Rex

cczjordan 03-23-2014 08:52 AM

Idle gap - .5 and .7 tested but still flame out. Even with 1mm idle gap idling high will still flame out.

It sound rich when flame out, possible air leak or conrod malfunction or burn room glow plug leaking?

22Racer 03-23-2014 09:40 AM


Originally Posted by cczjordan (Post 13122419)
Idle gap - .5 and .7 tested but still flame out. Even with 1mm idle gap idling high will still flame out.

It sound rich when flame out, possible air leak or conrod malfunction or burn room glow plug leaking?

turn hsn in 1/4 turn at a time to see if it helps. Does it flame out at high speed or idle? If the head button was leaking there would be fuel around where it is leaking.

Rex

cczjordan 03-23-2014 10:27 AM

It will only flame out at high speed (WOT), I'd try everything in my knowledge. I'm planning to get a new p/s/c to troubleshoot

ChampionRC 03-23-2014 06:28 PM


Originally Posted by cczjordan (Post 13122628)
It will only flame out at high speed (WOT), I'd try everything in my knowledge. I'm planning to get a new p/s/c to troubleshoot

Have you checked your tank seal and pipe seals ? pressure line ? fuel line ? any leak here will cause this symptom and by the sounds of it its happening no matter what you do to the engine.

Try looking outside the engine for the fault. It definitely sounds like a loss of fuel or pressure at wot.

cczjordan 03-24-2014 09:32 PM

had replace the seal, hose and even new tank. I troubleshoot with other engine and it was ok. I wondering would it be the compression is good but the the piston/sleeve is damage. Visually everything is fine. Physically the metal pinch stil noticeable.

ChampionRC 03-24-2014 11:53 PM

can you post a photo of the damage ?

curacing2 03-25-2014 05:20 PM

Are the engine bearings ok?

cczjordan 03-25-2014 06:30 PM

already dissemble and resemble, found no fault at all, fyi the engine only had quarter gallon and I rested the engine for 3 weeks then the problem occur.

ChampionRC 03-30-2014 02:00 PM


Originally Posted by cczjordan (Post 13130383)
already dissemble and resemble, found no fault at all, fyi the engine only had quarter gallon and I rested the engine for 3 weeks then the problem occur.

Have you flushed the HSN ?

Johan_f 04-13-2014 02:31 AM

Carb questions
 
1 Attachment(s)
Hi all

I'm pretty new to this and I have tried to find the answers in this forum and tought I did, then I was talking to my vendor and he told me different.

To the question:

which carb to use, I have one 2 needle carb and one 3 needle carb with black anodized throttle slide. I thought I found out here that the carb to use is the 3 needle carb with black throttle slider, but my vendor told me that he got the 2 needle delivered from GO to change out the 3 needle.

The engine is a GO GX2 5RHO

Pls help me out :)

Regards from Sweden, Johan

grizz1 04-13-2014 02:49 AM


Originally Posted by Johan_f (Post 13180177)
Hi all

I'm pretty new to this and I have tried to find the answers in this forum and tought I did, then I was talking to my vendor and he told me different.

To the question:

which carb to use, I have one 2 needle carb and one 3 needle carb with black anodized throttle slide. I thought I found out here that the carb to use is the 3 needle carb with black throttle slider, but my vendor told me that he got the 2 needle delivered from GO to change out the 3 needle.

The engine is a GO GX2 5RHO

Pls help me out :)

Regards from Sweden, Johan

Hi Johan,

You can use either carb, but the 3 needle was the production carb for the GXII-5RHO in it's last year of manufacture.
The 3 needle is a good carb.
Don't adjust the 3rd screw from the factory setting , and just treat it like a 2 needle carb for tuning.
The 3rd screw is not actually a needle, but an adjustable fuel tube. It is factory set for the best engine response, so mark it for reference, and just leave it.
You will get better power and response from the 3 needle carb on the 5RHO motor.

Hope that helps.

Johan_f 04-13-2014 03:00 AM

Tnx Shane


Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 13180188)
Hi Johan,

You can use either carb, but the 3 needle was the production carb for the GXII-5RHO in it's last year of manufacture.
The 3 needle is a good carb.
Don't adjust the 3rd screw from the factory setting , and just treat it like a 2 needle carb for tuning.
The 3rd screw is not actually a needle, but an adjustable fuel tube. It is factory set for the best engine response, so mark it for reference, and just leave it.
You will get better power and response from the 3 needle carb on the 5RHO motor.

Hope that helps.



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