Originally Posted by Rsickles (Post 12805836)

Is that just RTV over the MSN?

Looks like they just cut the MSN down (probably glued/set it at factory) and stuck RTV over it so you can't mess with it.

If they wanted to go back to a two-needle, should've went back to the original 2-needle that came on the GX's, JS's, Precirotate, etc.

Originally Posted by Frans1978 (Post 12804135)

Hello

I have a Go 21 3 ports (it says R21 on the crank) with the blue head and long LSN, it's just broken in. Great engine :)
When I got it, HSN was 3 turns out from closed (so not flush but about 0.5 mm in from flush) and LSN way out of flush.

So far I tuned it the way its described in this forum :)
ie: set idle gap to 0.7mm (actually it's more like 0.5mm now) max and then only tune LSN for steady idle and crisp acceleration and leaving the HSN alone for the moment

I was wondering if it tuned like the GX series, if the HSN had to be flush when you start tuning the engine with very little tweak afterwards or if the HSN non flush position was the normal factory setting with these older Go engines??

I can't really go further with the LSN as idle will start to rise after a few secs when the buggy gets to a stop with 1/4 left in the tank. LSN pinch is about 4 secs at 105 degres celcius

Thanks a lot guys :)

Francois

Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 12807789)

Hi Francois,

Sounds like you have one of the "Sport" motors.
The early GO two needle carbs with the long LSN all tune as you have described. The HSN stays around flush.
Set the idle gap to around .5 - .7 mm, then tune the LSN in for nice bottom end. The HSN only effects the top 5% - 10% of the power, so once you have the bottom right you can adjust the HSN for good WOT performance. Then return to the LSN and fine tune if you needed to lean the HSN at all.

With these carbs, if you start getting lean bog around the half tank mark, you are too lean on the HSN. Just richen a screwdriver blade width at a time until the lean bog goes.

Hope this helps :)

Originally Posted by Frans1978 (Post 12808206)

Thanks Grizz1 for your help

I really like Go engines

I see so should I turn out the HSN back to flush (around half a turn out from where it is now/factory setting to reach flush position) and keep leaning the LSN for more power through the bottom/mid range or should I leave the HSN as it is now from factory ?

If idle start rising up after a stop after a several seconds is it because LSN got too lean/what would be the signs of a too lean LSN? What do you think is the minimum temp to start tuning this engine?

Sorry for all the questions

Thanks a lot :)

Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 12808852)

We never stocked the Sport motors, so if the factory setting is half a turn in, I would try that first.
If it lean bogs then richen to the top end a little at a time until it comes right.

With the long needle LSN's this needle controls the fuel delivery from idle up to around 90% WOT, so yes, most of the bottom and mid range tuning is done with the LSN.

Don't worry about temp. Tuning to a temperature is not a good idea.
Tune for nice power with good smoke. If the engine is performing well and not bogging down or going flat at WOT then it is in a happy place temp wise - whatever that particular temp may be. All motors will be a little different (due to fuel, plug, pipe, even driver style), so tuning by matching the temps of someone else's motor is a recipe for trouble.
Generally most motors will run between 95C - 115C at a race tune, but some can be higher and still be totally happy.

Originally Posted by Frans1978 (Post 12820396)

Ok I think I get the hang of long lsn style by now, ran it today and it was good.

I get the feeling it's a pretty lean bottom end/pretty rich top end engine type. It's all in the idle gap/lsn combination isn't it?

I like the smooth power delivery, quite different from other engines :)

Thanks for the tips on RC tech!

Originally Posted by invrtd (Post 12874901)

The 3 needle carb works pretty well if you know you to tune a 3 needle. I still have a 21GxII RHO. Keeps up with the best of them and parts are cheap. Otherwise, 2 needle is fine. Go just needs to get a reliable engine out for the right price. Why would I spend $245 for a go when I gen get a Nova Plus 4T for about the same price, and a nova will last me all season and the Go maybe not. Not trying to pick on go, but they need to get the act together if they want to compete in this hobby with loyal customers. If they had the New GHO for the right price, I think they would sell like hot cakes. OS and NOVA are 80 percent of the motor where I drive and Alpha are the other 15-20. I am the only one who still has a GO and most won't touch one even if they made a new one.

Originally Posted by invrtd (Post 12874901)

If they had the New GHO for the right price, I think they would sell like hot cakes.

Originally Posted by grizz1 (Post 12875786)

The Cera motor you mention is not going to happen - it was canned in the re-structure.

Originally Posted by Bellgate (Post 12875996)

What do you consider "the right price?"

Originally Posted by Eivind E (Post 12876495)

Well, there clearly is one named Cera, as you can tell by the pictures.
And it is listed as in stock.

Whether or not this is "the" Cera that was supposed to be, is another matter, this looks like an Arrow GTR with a different heatsink head on it and a Cera label, if you ask me.

Maybe they just had a bunch of heads with Cera on them and wanted to use them..