![]() |
Originally Posted by deadmancourt
(Post 8042809)
your motor just finally BROKE IN....thats why the sudden richness ....
|
Originally Posted by scurr
(Post 8042822)
so what needles do you think i need to change to improve this?? lean the lsn a little at a time ????
Just upgraded to a Spektrum Dx3 Metal geared servo broke and needed replacing Upgrade my clutch and clutch bell Oh and lost a wheel nut last night !!! so dont have a matchin set now lol |
What shims should I be using for 25% nitro 2 x silver and 1 x copper????
|
Originally Posted by scurr
(Post 8042917)
What shims should I be using for 25% nitro 2 x silver and 1 x copper????
|
Originally Posted by MAGPIE-121
(Post 8042950)
1 x alloy (silver) & 2 copper for now
|
Originally Posted by scurr
(Post 8043043)
for now???
Stick with the stock set up of 1 x alloy and 2 x thin copper until you have say 7 - 8 litres (1.5 + gal) through. Then if you feel the need, drop one thin copper shim out and see what you think for your track and set up. That sudden richness could be a plug on the way out. I have personally never experianced a huge change in performance or tune when my motors properly bed in, but that may have something to do with the run in procedure I use. They just get faster and smoother as I put more tanks through them. The tune doesn't seem to change - not dramatically enough to be readily noticed anyway. |
better wording than mine grizz, so i didn't post it :D
+1 |
I know a little bit about motors, and what I like to run for head space. My question to you guys is, WHY do you insist on running such HIGH head clearance? Any technical backing to why you guys suggest clearance in the .025 and up range? (not looking to start a pissing match of any kind, just curious is all). In our boats we run head clearance down to .004 with 60% nitro. .017 TOTAL bubble volume WITH the squish included. I know what I like to run my car engines at on the lower nitro, with the bigger stock button volumes, but why do YOU guys suggest such high clearance?
|
Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 8043115)
You want to make sure the motor is fully bedded in and most of the pinch is gone before dropping any shims.
Stick with the stock set up of 1 x alloy and 2 x thin copper until you have say 7 - 8 litres (1.5 + gal) through. Then if you feel the need, drop one thin copper shim out and see what you think for your track and set up. That sudden richness could be a plug on the way out. I have personally never experianced a huge change in performance or tune when my motors properly bed in, but that may have something to do with the run in procedure I use. They just get faster and smoother as I put more tanks through them. The tune doesn't seem to change - not dramatically enough to be readily noticed anyway. I must admit the performance of the engine improved greatly. I am loving it :D Thanks again I will wait until I am past that mark of fuel before I feel the need to take a shim out. |
Originally Posted by rodcpierce
(Post 8043267)
I know a little bit about motors, and what I like to run for head space. My question to you guys is, WHY do you insist on running such HIGH head clearance? Any technical backing to why you guys suggest clearance in the .025 and up range? (not looking to start a pissing match of any kind, just curious is all). In our boats we run head clearance down to .004 with 60% nitro. .017 TOTAL bubble volume WITH the squish included. I know what I like to run my car engines at on the lower nitro, with the bigger stock button volumes, but why do YOU guys suggest such high clearance?
http://www.massivemods.com.au/produc...roducts_id=192 |
I think he means 0.025 inches which is about .6mm..the GO engines are running about .8mm head clearance with the alloy and 2 copper shims plus the .3 from the head button.0.004" is 0.1mm..You can run these with that little head clearance but the tuning window gets progressively smaller as you reduce shims stack.with 0.1mm it'll eat plugs and the idle will be near impossible to keep rock steady.Besides even with no shims you still have the .3mm built into the head button.
|
thanks for the advice
got the bearing swap done. not as smooth as guy in video, without the bearing puller had to knock the main out with a little more force. But all good now. Just realized I have no extra head shims and the two of three were not in good reusable shape. full rebuild will have to wait until i get my hands on some. don't get why LHS does not stock much for .21 engines despite the 1/8th dirt track is less than 5 miles away.
|
Originally Posted by Gizmatron
(Post 8044450)
I think he means 0.025 inches which is about .6mm..the GO engines are running about .8mm head clearance with the alloy and 2 copper shims plus the .3 from the head button.0.004" is 0.1mm..You can run these with that little head clearance but the tuning window gets progressively smaller as you reduce shims stack.with 0.1mm it'll eat plugs and the idle will be near impossible to keep rock steady.Besides even with no shims you still have the .3mm built into the head button.
|
Hey guys..help me out. just bought a go 5 port 28 non turbo plug, for my neighbors truggy... it keeps fouling plugs and dont know why. I tryed different brands still the same thing. The motor has less than a gal run in and have gone through 4 plugs... never had that issue with my go 21 7ports...any input would be great....
|
Originally Posted by kaptain crash
(Post 8045562)
Hey guys..help me out. just bought a go 5 port 28 non turbo plug, for my neighbors truggy... it keeps fouling plugs and dont know why. I tryed different brands still the same thing. The motor has less than a gal run in and have gone through 4 plugs... never had that issue with my go 21 7ports...any input would be great....
|
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:46 AM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.