Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree2Likes

Go-Tech Engines Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-28-2010, 01:36 PM
  #11266  
Tech Elite
 
grizz1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 2,983
Default

Originally Posted by 808gx7r
BASIC TUNE this site is to give your opinions. i gave mine plus the way i do it before a morning heat as we dont have practice. so i do what i said she comes up to heat easy with a few revs on the box...

mybe your just not going fast enough for cooling

however i struggled with the long needle carbs... as you know.
the tuning is just a pain in the $%*^ but i throw in the short needle LSN. and the gx hums to life so much easyer...
mybe why alot are switching to the shorts.

im not saying the engines blow. i love the way it deals with its power.

i have a super hard time getting the gx up to temp with the long needle. taking like 2 tanks yet... once its there its good.

i do think i get a nicer bottom with the short needle too.
Fair enough bro, whatever you say Just trying to help out.
However I would suggest that your trouble with the long needle may stem from the tuning routine you are using to some extent, as 99% of people running the long needle and following the recommended tuning guides have no problems. Just an observation. Subject closed. Peace

Inferno:
The long needle is easy to tune once you get your head around it. It gives a nice smooth powerband because the response is regulated by the one needle from idle to WOT, and you don't have to tune around the transition of the LSN coming out of the receiver jet and the HSN taking over. That's why the factory fits the long needle as standard.

Refer to the long needle with the garden hose analogy - Think of the HSN as the tap, and the LSN as the nozzle on the end of the hose. Think about how the pressure and flow of the garden hose works when you turn the tap on and off and open and close the nozzle, then apply that to the corresponding needles on your carb. This makes it easy to see why having the HSN set rich enough with the long needle is so important (if this doesn't make sense, PM me and I will elaborate a bit more).

The biggest things are having that idle gap set right before you start tuning, having the HSN set flush to start with and only making very small adjustments on the HSN, and fine tuning the motor when it's hot.

The short needle works fine too, and if some people are having trouble tuning the long needle then maybe a switch to the short needle is the way to go for them. It's all about enjoying yourself, not about struggling to get your motor running right. Tuning basics still apply with either needle though.

Last edited by grizz1; 07-28-2010 at 09:04 PM.
grizz1 is offline  
Old 07-28-2010, 11:55 PM
  #11267  
Tech Addict
 
808gx7r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 721
Default

Originally Posted by grizz1
Fair enough bro, whatever you say Just trying to help out.
However I would suggest that your trouble with the long needle may stem from the tuning routine you are using to some extent, as 99% of people running the long needle and following the recommended tuning guides have no problems. Just an observation. Subject closed. Peace

Inferno:
The long needle is easy to tune once you get your head around it. It gives a nice smooth powerband because the response is regulated by the one needle from idle to WOT, and you don't have to tune around the transition of the LSN coming out of the receiver jet and the HSN taking over. That's why the factory fits the long needle as standard.

Refer to the long needle with the garden hose analogy - Think of the HSN as the tap, and the LSN as the nozzle on the end of the hose. Think about how the pressure and flow of the garden hose works when you turn the tap on and off and open and close the nozzle, then apply that to the corresponding needles on your carb. This makes it easy to see why having the HSN set rich enough with the long needle is so important (if this doesn't make sense, PM me and I will elaborate a bit more).

The biggest things are having that idle gap set right before you start tuning, having the HSN set flush to start with and only making very small adjustments on the HSN, and fine tuning the motor when it's hot.

The short needle works fine too, and if some people are having trouble tuning the long needle then maybe a switch to the short needle is the way to go for them. It's all about enjoying yourself, not about struggling to get your motor running right. Tuning basics still apply with either needle though.
yep i was just so used to the sound of the short needles... as i base alot of my short needle tuning on sound...

i just leave my gx7r at one full turn in on lsn an about 1/8 in on hsn... runs. so i dont even worry about tuning it... unless its xtremely hot outside i will lean the lsn a tad.

seeing as you have more experience with these motors. how will my gx7r do under alot of WOT. around a 20m x 20m playground... as we used to race around it with trucks. its got 4 cornors but will be a heap of WOT how do you think it will handle that?
808gx7r is offline  
Old 07-29-2010, 12:09 AM
  #11268  
Tech Elite
 
grizz1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 2,983
Default

The GX-7R is renown for it top end, so I think it will like it a lot . In a straight line drag race it would be one of the quicker motors at the top end on the market.
If you are doing a lot of WOT running just run it a tad richer on top. Not so it´s blubbery, but just to make sure it gets enough fuel through with the constant WOT running. It will thank you for it.
grizz1 is offline  
Old 07-29-2010, 12:18 AM
  #11269  
Tech Addict
 
808gx7r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 721
Default

Originally Posted by grizz1
The GX-7R is renown for it top end, so I think it will like it a lot . In a straight line drag race it would be one of the quicker motors at the top end on the market.
If you are doing a lot of WOT running just run it a tad richer on top. Not so it´s blubbery, but just to make sure it gets enough fuel through with the constant WOT running. It will thank you for it.
just wasnt too sure with how the tune will hold with so many wots
808gx7r is offline  
Old 07-29-2010, 07:01 AM
  #11270  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
 
Stalkie's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NSW, Australia
Posts: 110
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

WOT Have to say my old gen 5, 7 port luvs it
Gets a flogging on the road/courts and holds it's tune well, shame the tyres and clutch shoes cant keep up
Stalkie is offline  
Old 07-29-2010, 04:30 PM
  #11271  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
kilfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Florida/US & Manila/CDO PI
Posts: 398
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default need some help

hi

got my self a very gentely used GX-3r

can you give me a good starting point on the Low speed needle (the one in the midle of the throttle pull)

i am new to nitro. i know it will need to be fine tuned on the track. just need a good starting point. is one turn out good?

thanks in advance
Rick
kilfish is offline  
Old 07-29-2010, 07:25 PM
  #11272  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
GNS Racing 86's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kalkaska Michigan
Posts: 322
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

hi everyone
i just got the go .28 6 port and breaking in the motor. it came with 2 .004 head shims installed and 1 .008 not installed. i installed the .008 with the 2 .004's for breakin.
what shims should i use after breakin, im using byrons 25% with 11% oil.
thanks. this is my first go engine.
GNS Racing 86 is offline  
Old 07-29-2010, 07:38 PM
  #11273  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
GNS Racing 86's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kalkaska Michigan
Posts: 322
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by inferno13
you know it!!!!!
what up inferno!!!!!!!!!!
you ready for sunday yet? company is gone and getting the new mill broke in now, only nine more tanks to go in the Go LOL
GNS Racing 86 is offline  
Old 07-29-2010, 09:27 PM
  #11274  
Tech Elite
 
grizz1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 2,983
Default

Originally Posted by kilfish
hi

got my self a very gentely used GX-3r

can you give me a good starting point on the Low speed needle (the one in the midle of the throttle pull)

i am new to nitro. i know it will need to be fine tuned on the track. just need a good starting point. is one turn out good?

thanks in advance
Rick
Hi Rick, If your motor is a US model (which I guess it is) it will have the short low speed needle fitted, so base settings woud be around:

High speed needle - .5 of a turn in from flush
Low speed needle - 1.25 turns in from flush

This will get you going and then fine tune from there. Should be pretty close on the top needle, maybe a little tweaking on the bottom needle from that setting.
Be aware the top needle is very sensitive to adjustment (like 1/16 at a time).
Hope you enjoy the GX-3R, they are a great little motor.
grizz1 is offline  
Old 07-29-2010, 11:50 PM
  #11275  
Tech Fanatic
 
Ruune's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 891
Default

Originally Posted by grizz1
Hi Rick, If your motor is a US model (which I guess it is) it will have the short low speed needle fitted, so base settings woud be around:

High speed needle - .5 of a turn in from flush
Low speed needle - 1.25 turns in from flush

This will get you going and then fine tune from there. Should be pretty close on the top needle, maybe a little tweaking on the bottom needle from that setting.
Be aware the top needle is very sensitive to adjustment (like 1/16 at a time).
Hope you enjoy the GX-3R, they are a great little motor.
Speaking of the long and short low speed needles, we have these in-stock. I've been experimenting with one of my GX-5Rs, and I have to say I like the more linear powerband better. I'm thinking about ordering my next shipment (already have a large one on the way) with the longer needles, but would like to get some impressions from the guys that count... (YOU!!).

Couple of "pre" announcements:
We should have some Carb/LSN/HSN complete seal rebuild kits together (with pricing) in the next couple of weeks. A few of you have asked me about this, and I apologize about not getting back to you sooner.

We will be announcing a new partial sponsorship program within the next week. This will largely be managed by Team Manager/Factory Team Driver, Matt Sistrunk. In addition, Matt will be processing many of the orders from Lousiana. We are currently ironing out the logistics, but good things are happening.

Pricing- I have managed to negotiate a lower price from the factory. In turn, I'm relaying the savings on to you. Effective August 1st, 2010, I am reducing dealer and STREET price by $15USD on GX Engines and GX Engine Combos. This will remain in effect for as long as I can keep the negotiated price from the factory. Furthermore, I am eliminating mention of "MSRP," since I feel that this is misleading. There will be "dealer price" and "street price."

Many changes are taking place behind the scenes. For those of you that I havent responded to, let me apologize in advance. Also, the BEST place to contact me is at the company email address: [email protected]. I rarely check PMs on here.

well... its 2am (yet again)... time for sleep.
T
Ruune is offline  
Old 07-30-2010, 12:18 AM
  #11276  
Tech Elite
 
grizz1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 2,983
Default

Hi Trey, like most other people who have run the long needle carb you commented on the smooth linear powerband. It is definitely a feature of the long LSN.
All the GO motors here in NZ have been sold with the long needle for some years now, and everyone is very happy with the performance and the ease of tuning (once the slightly different tuning process is explained to lesser experianced tuners who may not be able to work it out for themselves). This might be the only glitch you will strike, but it is easily sorted with a tuning guide placed in the box with every motor sold, and backed up with a how-to guide on your web site.
95% of customers pick it up straight away, and then comment how well the motors hold their tune, and how easy they are to adjust if required.
For those that just can't get their head around the tuning, there is the short needle alternative (which is what I offer here).
From our experiance here (on a much smaller scale obviously), I think it would be a positive move for the GO product in the US.

Last edited by grizz1; 07-30-2010 at 03:47 AM.
grizz1 is offline  
Old 07-30-2010, 05:38 AM
  #11277  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
 
kilfish's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Florida/US & Manila/CDO PI
Posts: 398
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by grizz1
Hi Rick, If your motor is a US model (which I guess it is) it will have the short low speed needle fitted, so base settings woud be around:

High speed needle - .5 of a turn in from flush
Low speed needle - 1.25 turns in from flush

This will get you going and then fine tune from there. Should be pretty close on the top needle, maybe a little tweaking on the bottom needle from that setting.
Be aware the top needle is very sensitive to adjustment (like 1/16 at a time).
Hope you enjoy the GX-3R, they are a great little motor.
Thanks Shane that is just what i was looking for. i let you all know how i went. i will race it this weekend.

Rick
kilfish is offline  
Old 07-30-2010, 06:15 AM
  #11278  
Tech Fanatic
 
Ruune's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 891
Default

Thanks for the feedback, griz. I may end up just dropping in the long needle as an add-on. Not sure yet.

Another thing I'd like to note is that the new hsn has double nitrile seals. They are VERY tight, and its best to use some grease when reinserting them. Some guys also indicate that the top seal gets a little chewed up. Using grease will mitigate some of this.

We are starting to gear up for the worlds and the 2011 season... exciting things around the corner!
Ruune is offline  
Old 07-30-2010, 06:40 AM
  #11279  
Suspended
iTrader: (202)
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: northern michigan
Posts: 7,916
Trader Rating: 202 (96%+)
Default

Originally Posted by GNS Racing 86
hi everyone
i just got the go .28 6 port and breaking in the motor. it came with 2 .004 head shims installed and 1 .008 not installed. i installed the .008 with the 2 .004's for breakin.
what shims should i use after breakin, im using byrons 25% with 11% oil.
thanks. this is my first go engine.
im sure someone will chime in and awnser your question GNS, grizz1 really knows his stuff here and was a big help to me (thanks grizz1) as for sunday, ya, cant wait!!
inferno13 is offline  
Old 07-30-2010, 07:40 AM
  #11280  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: TX
Posts: 307
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Ruune
Thanks for the feedback, griz. I may end up just dropping in the long needle as an add-on. Not sure yet.

Another thing I'd like to note is that the new hsn has double nitrile seals. They are VERY tight, and its best to use some grease when reinserting them. Some guys also indicate that the top seal gets a little chewed up. Using grease will mitigate some of this.

We are starting to gear up for the worlds and the 2011 season... exciting things around the corner!
Glad to see things are on track Trey. I am also glad to see Puddin is giving you some much needed help.
matrixmike28 is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.