Go-Tech Engines Thread
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BASIC TUNE this site is to give your opinions. i gave mine plus the way i do it before a morning heat as we dont have practice. so i do what i said she comes up to heat easy with a few revs on the box...
mybe your just not going fast enough for cooling![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
however i struggled with the long needle carbs... as you know.
the tuning is just a pain in the $%*^ but i throw in the short needle LSN. and the gx hums to life so much easyer...
mybe why alot are switching to the shorts.
im not saying the engines blow. i love the way it deals with its power.
i have a super hard time getting the gx up to temp with the long needle. taking like 2 tanks yet... once its there its good.
i do think i get a nicer bottom with the short needle too.
mybe your just not going fast enough for cooling
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
however i struggled with the long needle carbs... as you know.
the tuning is just a pain in the $%*^ but i throw in the short needle LSN. and the gx hums to life so much easyer...
mybe why alot are switching to the shorts.
im not saying the engines blow. i love the way it deals with its power.
i have a super hard time getting the gx up to temp with the long needle. taking like 2 tanks yet... once its there its good.
i do think i get a nicer bottom with the short needle too.
![Ha!](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/ha.gif)
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
However I would suggest that your trouble with the long needle may stem from the tuning routine you are using to some extent, as 99% of people running the long needle and following the recommended tuning guides have no problems. Just an observation. Subject closed. Peace
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Inferno:
The long needle is easy to tune once you get your head around it. It gives a nice smooth powerband because the response is regulated by the one needle from idle to WOT, and you don't have to tune around the transition of the LSN coming out of the receiver jet and the HSN taking over. That's why the factory fits the long needle as standard.
Refer to the long needle with the garden hose analogy - Think of the HSN as the tap, and the LSN as the nozzle on the end of the hose. Think about how the pressure and flow of the garden hose works when you turn the tap on and off and open and close the nozzle, then apply that to the corresponding needles on your carb. This makes it easy to see why having the HSN set rich enough with the long needle is so important (if this doesn't make sense, PM me and I will elaborate a bit more).
The biggest things are having that idle gap set right before you start tuning, having the HSN set flush to start with and only making very small adjustments on the HSN, and fine tuning the motor when it's hot.
The short needle works fine too, and if some people are having trouble tuning the long needle then maybe a switch to the short needle is the way to go for them. It's all about enjoying yourself, not about struggling to get your motor running right. Tuning basics still apply with either needle though.
Last edited by grizz1; 07-28-2010 at 09:04 PM.
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![Ha!](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/ha.gif)
![Smilie](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/smile.gif)
However I would suggest that your trouble with the long needle may stem from the tuning routine you are using to some extent, as 99% of people running the long needle and following the recommended tuning guides have no problems. Just an observation. Subject closed. Peace
![Cool](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/cool.gif)
Inferno:
The long needle is easy to tune once you get your head around it. It gives a nice smooth powerband because the response is regulated by the one needle from idle to WOT, and you don't have to tune around the transition of the LSN coming out of the receiver jet and the HSN taking over. That's why the factory fits the long needle as standard.
Refer to the long needle with the garden hose analogy - Think of the HSN as the tap, and the LSN as the nozzle on the end of the hose. Think about how the pressure and flow of the garden hose works when you turn the tap on and off and open and close the nozzle, then apply that to the corresponding needles on your carb. This makes it easy to see why having the HSN set rich enough with the long needle is so important (if this doesn't make sense, PM me and I will elaborate a bit more).
The biggest things are having that idle gap set right before you start tuning, having the HSN set flush to start with and only making very small adjustments on the HSN, and fine tuning the motor when it's hot.
The short needle works fine too, and if some people are having trouble tuning the long needle then maybe a switch to the short needle is the way to go for them. It's all about enjoying yourself, not about struggling to get your motor running right. Tuning basics still apply with either needle though.
i just leave my gx7r at one full turn in on lsn an about 1/8 in on hsn... runs. so i dont even worry about tuning it... unless its xtremely hot outside i will lean the lsn a tad.
seeing as you have more experience with these motors. how will my gx7r do under alot of WOT. around a 20m x 20m playground... as we used to race around it with trucks. its got 4 cornors but will be a heap of WOT how do you think it will handle that?
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The GX-7R is renown for it top end, so I think it will like it a lot
. In a straight line drag race it would be one of the quicker motors at the top end on the market.
If you are doing a lot of WOT running just run it a tad richer on top. Not so it´s blubbery, but just to make sure it gets enough fuel through with the constant WOT running. It will thank you for it.
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
If you are doing a lot of WOT running just run it a tad richer on top. Not so it´s blubbery, but just to make sure it gets enough fuel through with the constant WOT running. It will thank you for it.
![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The GX-7R is renown for it top end, so I think it will like it a lot
. In a straight line drag race it would be one of the quicker motors at the top end on the market.
If you are doing a lot of WOT running just run it a tad richer on top. Not so it´s blubbery, but just to make sure it gets enough fuel through with the constant WOT running. It will thank you for it.![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
![Nodding](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/nod.gif)
If you are doing a lot of WOT running just run it a tad richer on top. Not so it´s blubbery, but just to make sure it gets enough fuel through with the constant WOT running. It will thank you for it.
![Wink](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/wink.gif)
Tech Adept
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WOT
Have to say my old gen 5, 7 port luvs it![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Gets a flogging on the road/courts and holds it's tune well, shame the tyres and clutch shoes cant keep up
![Rotating Tire](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/tire.gif)
![Big Grin](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Gets a flogging on the road/courts and holds it's tune well, shame the tyres and clutch shoes cant keep up
![Stick Out Tongue](https://www.rctech.net/forum/classic_images/smilies/tongue.gif)
Tech Regular
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hi
got my self a very gentely used GX-3r
can you give me a good starting point on the Low speed needle (the one in the midle of the throttle pull)
i am new to nitro. i know it will need to be fine tuned on the track. just need a good starting point. is one turn out good?
thanks in advance
Rick
got my self a very gentely used GX-3r
can you give me a good starting point on the Low speed needle (the one in the midle of the throttle pull)
i am new to nitro. i know it will need to be fine tuned on the track. just need a good starting point. is one turn out good?
thanks in advance
Rick
Tech Regular
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hi everyone
i just got the go .28 6 port and breaking in the motor. it came with 2 .004 head shims installed and 1 .008 not installed. i installed the .008 with the 2 .004's for breakin.
what shims should i use after breakin, im using byrons 25% with 11% oil.
thanks. this is my first go engine.
i just got the go .28 6 port and breaking in the motor. it came with 2 .004 head shims installed and 1 .008 not installed. i installed the .008 with the 2 .004's for breakin.
what shims should i use after breakin, im using byrons 25% with 11% oil.
thanks. this is my first go engine.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
hi
got my self a very gentely used GX-3r
can you give me a good starting point on the Low speed needle (the one in the midle of the throttle pull)
i am new to nitro. i know it will need to be fine tuned on the track. just need a good starting point. is one turn out good?
thanks in advance
Rick
got my self a very gentely used GX-3r
can you give me a good starting point on the Low speed needle (the one in the midle of the throttle pull)
i am new to nitro. i know it will need to be fine tuned on the track. just need a good starting point. is one turn out good?
thanks in advance
Rick
High speed needle - .5 of a turn in from flush
Low speed needle - 1.25 turns in from flush
This will get you going and then fine tune from there. Should be pretty close on the top needle, maybe a little tweaking on the bottom needle from that setting.
Be aware the top needle is very sensitive to adjustment (like 1/16 at a time).
Hope you enjoy the GX-3R, they are a great little motor.
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Hi Rick, If your motor is a US model (which I guess it is) it will have the short low speed needle fitted, so base settings woud be around:
High speed needle - .5 of a turn in from flush
Low speed needle - 1.25 turns in from flush
This will get you going and then fine tune from there. Should be pretty close on the top needle, maybe a little tweaking on the bottom needle from that setting.
Be aware the top needle is very sensitive to adjustment (like 1/16 at a time).
Hope you enjoy the GX-3R, they are a great little motor.
High speed needle - .5 of a turn in from flush
Low speed needle - 1.25 turns in from flush
This will get you going and then fine tune from there. Should be pretty close on the top needle, maybe a little tweaking on the bottom needle from that setting.
Be aware the top needle is very sensitive to adjustment (like 1/16 at a time).
Hope you enjoy the GX-3R, they are a great little motor.
Couple of "pre" announcements:
We should have some Carb/LSN/HSN complete seal rebuild kits together (with pricing) in the next couple of weeks. A few of you have asked me about this, and I apologize about not getting back to you sooner.
We will be announcing a new partial sponsorship program within the next week. This will largely be managed by Team Manager/Factory Team Driver, Matt Sistrunk. In addition, Matt will be processing many of the orders from Lousiana. We are currently ironing out the logistics, but good things are happening.
Pricing- I have managed to negotiate a lower price from the factory. In turn, I'm relaying the savings on to you. Effective August 1st, 2010, I am reducing dealer and STREET price by $15USD on GX Engines and GX Engine Combos. This will remain in effect for as long as I can keep the negotiated price from the factory. Furthermore, I am eliminating mention of "MSRP," since I feel that this is misleading. There will be "dealer price" and "street price."
Many changes are taking place behind the scenes. For those of you that I havent responded to, let me apologize in advance. Also, the BEST place to contact me is at the company email address: [email protected]. I rarely check PMs on here.
well... its 2am (yet again)... time for sleep.
T
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Hi Trey, like most other people who have run the long needle carb you commented on the smooth linear powerband. It is definitely a feature of the long LSN.
All the GO motors here in NZ have been sold with the long needle for some years now, and everyone is very happy with the performance and the ease of tuning (once the slightly different tuning process is explained to lesser experianced tuners who may not be able to work it out for themselves). This might be the only glitch you will strike, but it is easily sorted with a tuning guide placed in the box with every motor sold, and backed up with a how-to guide on your web site.
95% of customers pick it up straight away, and then comment how well the motors hold their tune, and how easy they are to adjust if required.
For those that just can't get their head around the tuning, there is the short needle alternative (which is what I offer here).
From our experiance here (on a much smaller scale obviously), I think it would be a positive move for the GO product in the US.
All the GO motors here in NZ have been sold with the long needle for some years now, and everyone is very happy with the performance and the ease of tuning (once the slightly different tuning process is explained to lesser experianced tuners who may not be able to work it out for themselves). This might be the only glitch you will strike, but it is easily sorted with a tuning guide placed in the box with every motor sold, and backed up with a how-to guide on your web site.
95% of customers pick it up straight away, and then comment how well the motors hold their tune, and how easy they are to adjust if required.
For those that just can't get their head around the tuning, there is the short needle alternative (which is what I offer here).
From our experiance here (on a much smaller scale obviously), I think it would be a positive move for the GO product in the US.
Last edited by grizz1; 07-30-2010 at 03:47 AM.
Tech Regular
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Hi Rick, If your motor is a US model (which I guess it is) it will have the short low speed needle fitted, so base settings woud be around:
High speed needle - .5 of a turn in from flush
Low speed needle - 1.25 turns in from flush
This will get you going and then fine tune from there. Should be pretty close on the top needle, maybe a little tweaking on the bottom needle from that setting.
Be aware the top needle is very sensitive to adjustment (like 1/16 at a time).
Hope you enjoy the GX-3R, they are a great little motor.
High speed needle - .5 of a turn in from flush
Low speed needle - 1.25 turns in from flush
This will get you going and then fine tune from there. Should be pretty close on the top needle, maybe a little tweaking on the bottom needle from that setting.
Be aware the top needle is very sensitive to adjustment (like 1/16 at a time).
Hope you enjoy the GX-3R, they are a great little motor.
Rick
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Thanks for the feedback, griz. I may end up just dropping in the long needle as an add-on. Not sure yet.
Another thing I'd like to note is that the new hsn has double nitrile seals. They are VERY tight, and its best to use some grease when reinserting them. Some guys also indicate that the top seal gets a little chewed up. Using grease will mitigate some of this.
We are starting to gear up for the worlds and the 2011 season... exciting things around the corner!
Another thing I'd like to note is that the new hsn has double nitrile seals. They are VERY tight, and its best to use some grease when reinserting them. Some guys also indicate that the top seal gets a little chewed up. Using grease will mitigate some of this.
We are starting to gear up for the worlds and the 2011 season... exciting things around the corner!
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
hi everyone
i just got the go .28 6 port and breaking in the motor. it came with 2 .004 head shims installed and 1 .008 not installed. i installed the .008 with the 2 .004's for breakin.
what shims should i use after breakin, im using byrons 25% with 11% oil.
thanks. this is my first go engine.
i just got the go .28 6 port and breaking in the motor. it came with 2 .004 head shims installed and 1 .008 not installed. i installed the .008 with the 2 .004's for breakin.
what shims should i use after breakin, im using byrons 25% with 11% oil.
thanks. this is my first go engine.
![Default](https://www.rctech.net/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the feedback, griz. I may end up just dropping in the long needle as an add-on. Not sure yet.
Another thing I'd like to note is that the new hsn has double nitrile seals. They are VERY tight, and its best to use some grease when reinserting them. Some guys also indicate that the top seal gets a little chewed up. Using grease will mitigate some of this.
We are starting to gear up for the worlds and the 2011 season... exciting things around the corner!
Another thing I'd like to note is that the new hsn has double nitrile seals. They are VERY tight, and its best to use some grease when reinserting them. Some guys also indicate that the top seal gets a little chewed up. Using grease will mitigate some of this.
We are starting to gear up for the worlds and the 2011 season... exciting things around the corner!