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Originally Posted by grizz1
(Post 7495681)
Ahhh - Matt's liking that MG66, I can tell :nod: :cool:
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Hey ok my lhs has the associated hpi and maybe losi clutch springs. What ones would work with the hb clutch and what rate should i get? Thanks
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Originally Posted by kael
(Post 7494210)
Amain doesn't have any .21 Go's listed on their site. :weird: This makes me nervous, any inside info?
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i have a small problem on my mg66 mbx6t, it runs fine, tuning is great but when i come in to pit to top up, it will flameout. but if i top up not to the brim, it runs well. pls advise me what to check
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Originally Posted by fuse01
(Post 7508819)
i have a small problem on my mg66 mbx6t, it runs fine, tuning is great but when i come in to pit to top up, it will flameout. but if i top up not to the brim, it runs well. pls advise me what to check
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Thanks will try.
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Guys I need help,
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all. James W. |
Originally Posted by racer6888
(Post 7511934)
Guys I need help,
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all. James W. |
OD 97t, .6mm, 30% Blue Thunder HP8
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Originally Posted by racer6888
(Post 7511934)
Guys I need help,
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all. James W. how old are your clutch bearings ? if no good & all you seals & clutch are good retune from flush L/H needles good tuning guides can be found on GRIZZ 1 or MASSIVEMODS web sites let us know how u go |
Originally Posted by racer6888
(Post 7512210)
OD 97t, .6mm, 30% Blue Thunder HP8
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3 port sport
guys i got a friemd that has a 3 port sport.21 in a buggy. and the motor want to run 300 degrees to make any power, does the motor just not make any power to race or what? hes got an .086 pipe 30 % fuel, we have used 2 temp guns that r reading the same, and the spit test. we r getting 7.30 minutes out of a tank, and smokes good???? but y the hi temps ? what r we missing on this motor?? how much shimmimg does it need for 30% fuel??
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Originally Posted by racer6888
(Post 7511934)
Guys I need help,
I have the 3 port r engine(gen 4 or 5 i think-has long lsn) with Dynamite 086 pipe, carbon shoes, 1.0 springs, in a HB D8 and have no bottom. It bogs and right when it gets past that start it rips and is fast up top. Is it the clutch? Am I not tuning right? Can yall give any advice? Lmk if yall need more info at all. James W. Other thing it could be is your brakes are binding - ie they are on at idle, and are not releasing fully until the throttle is opened up some. Check that when your throttle slide is fully closed your brakes are completely free and the car will roll. Reset your brake rods etc if required.
Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
(Post 7512933)
guys i got a friemd that has a 3 port sport.21 in a buggy. and the motor want to run 300 degrees to make any power, does the motor just not make any power to race or what? hes got an .086 pipe 30 % fuel, we have used 2 temp guns that r reading the same, and the spit test. we r getting 7.30 minutes out of a tank, and smokes good???? but y the hi temps ? what r we missing on this motor?? how much shimmimg does it need for 30% fuel??
If you have the long needle carb, you are most likely too lean on the HSN. This will kill the power and make it run hot, plus lean bog at low tank levels. Combined with this you may well be way too rich on the bottom end with a too wide an idle gap as well. This also applies to the short needle carb in most cases. Reset your idle gap to .7mm max. Long needle set HSN to flush, LSN to 1.5 turns in from flush and tune from there. Short needle carb set the HSN to 1 turn in from flush and the LSN 1.5 turns in from flush and tune from there, being careful not to go too lean on the top end in both cases. IMPORTANT - If the motor won't idle at .7mm idle gap, lean the bottom end needle until it will idle - DO NOT ADJUST THE IDLE GAP. This is where the problem starts and you end up with a big idle gap and rich bottom end, which means you need to run the top end really lean to compensate. Secondly, you may have an air leak somewhere. Motor or fuel system. Run stock shimming for 30%. This is 1 x .3mm alloy shim and 2 x .1mm brass shims. Total shim stack of .5mm. Run a medium temp plug. You should be seeing 9 min easy with that pipe. Lack of run time is coming from the rich bottom end / wide idle gap I would say. |
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If i use 20% nitro i have to use ?mm shims?
I use odonel medium plug. |
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