you can run 30% out of the box but if you find your plugs dont last put the extra shim in. Some will run on some will pop plugs at factory shimming. It all boils down to many things that i dont have time to go into.

Realise that more shims makes a steady idle , less shims makes the idle a lottle narrow to tune but better economy . More shims = less torque but freeer top end charge , less shims = more snappy torque , slightly less top end.

If you want an average down the middle set up run 25% nitro .5 shims total , Medium plug . 7.5 restrictor.

MASSSIV E!

need some help guys,i started breaking-in my motor yesterday, pre-heated the engine with a hair blower,the engine starts but keeps on flaming out,it will idle for about 10 seconds then flames out,so i pulled the engine and sealed the carb base,backplate,pinchbolt,checked for any airleaks on my fuel tank,tubing..then put it back again on my car,but still doing the same thing,there is no problem with my needle settings,btw im using an os carb on my engine,then the last thing i check is my turbo plug(NOVAROSSI PLUG),when i put it in on my igniter it does give a bright orange color.Im still figuring out what could be the cause.

How have you determined your needles are not off even it keeps dying on idle ?

Quite right :confused:
Sounds like it is just too rich down low. Take the LSN in a little at a time until it idles. If it's brand new you may need to lift the idle a little to keep it running too, because it is still really tight. Just remember after it's run in to return the idle gap to .7mm before you try and put a proper tune on it.

Hi Mark. With .5 shims total, is that including the head button or just the shim stack ?? It's always confusing when it says "total" - well it is for me anyway, duh :D

me too lol

are you counting the alloy shim plus the copper washers?

lets assume the alloy shim is always used:

what amount of copper shims are we using on 30% .2mm?

i brought my engine along with the kit to my friend,first he borrowed the glowplug and tested it on his igniter again the glowplug giving a bright orange light,and then installed it to his nova engine,the engine didnt idle same as my engine but when he use his os p3 on his engine the engine idles smoothly,am i using the right plug on my engine?i forgot what novarossi plug it was but there's a #6 and f etched to the plug.

Well, i just edited a small video a friend sent to me ... he captured part of my 1/4th finals during the 2010 Southamerican Championship in Buggy Class ... i ended 2nd place just 2 seconds behind the first on this round and bumped up to Semifinals (IFMAR tree racing structure) :

GO ENGINES .21 5 ports + 2072 pipe !!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BVkA_md5NU4

As you can see, track got little deteriorated on jumps, so you had to race more with brains than heart, something that fails on my sometimes lol !!

I will be posting more videos as soon as i have time ...

quick question, i'm starting to break in my go.7 port, i normally use byrons gen2 2500 & debating about switching to gen2 3000....is that a good move ?

One more time congratulations pato!

Can i use your video at my local track site? i had posted some infos about suda, and would be great if i can post you video there!

cheers

gen 2 3000 is what I use.

No problem !!

Give us the link !

Sounds like you have a bad plug. They can glow and still not work properly. #6 might be a bit cold for a new engine running rich too. Try a P3 or P4.

I tried using Nova plugs and had to lean out the motor to get it to run at break in (#5 or6) I had alot better luck with odonnell 97t ot go t3.

Rex

I read the shimming 101 last year and it confused me.
I always break in a Go motor with stock shimming, no break in shim. After the motor loosens up a bit, a couple race weekends or a gallon on it I take out one brass shim. This leaves me with one aluminum and one brass shim. This is for 30% fuel, for 20% i think you could run one alum shim fine.

Rex