The best thing i could tell you is get your recipt and take pics and send them to racefactor and see whats up not shure if your in the US or not.

Ok started my break in of my 21 PRO Go-Tech 7P+2.

I let it idle for two tanks with the temps on the head never exceeding 160 F with a average of maybe 145 or so.

The exhaust header had a max temp of maybe 175F right next to the exhaust port on the engine.

Through this whole 2 tanke I had to tip the buggy over to get the excess fuel out of the pipe because it was wanting to pool up in there.

To add I am running ODNNELL High Performance 30% racing fuel throughtout the entire break-in process. This fuel seems to burn much better than the fuel (traxxas 20%) I am used to in my Traxxas vehicles. (yes I am a recent graduate from the rtr crowd but yet I still ove my Slayer)

I have a few questions about my motor. I am unsure if it is the newer style. Where exactly do I measure at to get the correct reading.

What carb restrictor should I start out with. I will be using a Dynimate Platinum 053 pipe, I was thinking maybe the gold 6.5. Till I learn to drive the beast well. It came with a black plastic one, orange 6.5, silver 7.0, blue 7.5, and the red 8.0.

Secondly what does it mean by 7P+2 I thought it was just a 7 port engine. Are there different ones.

I did take the engine apart and clean it but it looked very good. I would of been ok to not of even doing it.




Lastly I am going to have to wait till I finish assembling the new buggy to proceed with the next steps of the break in procedure. Is this going to hurt anything. I did afterrun procedure and used afterrun oil.

You may want to check if your rod has been damaged . Idling an engine that cold can cause the rod big end to oval. Especially when its new.

You need to contact your point of sale for this information. Having said that i know that Go Factory are hands down the best at honoring warranty.

Let me know how you go with it

Cheers MM

Yeah 69er you should have got it up to 190-200 and just threw it on the ground and started driving it around in circles but just give it 1/4 throttle for like 2 more tanks. That ide you did at them low temps wasnt too good for the internals but just keep it close to 200 as you can at least I know it can be hard at 1st. just lean the low end needle a few hours after you start it and get it warm then lean it 2 hours or so check it and get it hot. But drive it around to get it hot dont be scared to get the motor warm. Just at the 2 gallon mark do what I said with the rod pin clips and if you want them TKO's you was talking about. By idling it at them low temps your mill will lose its mechanical pinch sooner now but you didnt kill it or anything so dont worry.

This is how it said to break it in according to the little pamphlet that came with the motor. It was worded saying not to get it hot.

I took the engine back apart and everything looks to be ok.

Did you measure the big end bushing ? it should measure 4.988 ID mm

Ok maybe you are lucky , please run the engine hotter from now on . Just put it on the ground and begin to play with it

Cheers MM

go engine, and go tech
 

i have a go 7port turbo .21 My question is that my case broke on both sides. i was going to replace it but the case is different:confused: than any gotech ive seen on the case is only a G and the other side as R21, not GO and B21 like the go tech. i have found a website with my case but now im confused anyone help :confused:

Yeah, what does the +2 mean? I believe they're called relief ports? What do they do?

What's the difference between a sleeve with and without those relief ports? Thanks!

go go go!!! :lol:

Yeah I don't know why they recommend running an engine that tight that cold. Search back through this thread a couple of really good break in methods have been discussed.

go engine
 

190 is the min according to Bridges.

Question, what are the views of using an os 2050 or 2060 on the the moded 5 port?

Thanks

086 is the recommended pipe so the 2060 is a no go 2050 I am not shure of the style of pipe sorry, what you need is a high end pipe.

I'm trying out a Race 3 Port. I was curious what pipe works best on this engine (Runtime Mainly)? I have JP1, JP3, DYN 053, GO 2047, and the Redline Pipe that came with the OCM Redline Motor awhile back. Also, Which carb restrictor would give it the best overall mileage without sacrificing too much power?

Thanks!:nod:

i believe the redline is the 0801 pipe and that will work fine... jp3 would be ok not great ..... o53 would chock it up and 2047 would be good choice thnx will g

Smiley if you want rid of that 2047 or 053 let me know. I got a set of WB 6mm alum towers brand new for the D8 or $.