Here's vid of a Go .25 6 port.
http://www.mnnitroseries.com/gunner/...4%20Truggy.wmv
My son Kendall is the one in front, it was new for this weekend, I heard they get better! Kyosho st-rr, 14t clutchbell, low speed needle shortened. = very fast!

Rex

For those of us with the short LSN....any tuning tips? It seems that most of the settings that are used here are for those with the long LSN. Should we follow basically the same rule of thumb for our race tune like 1-2 hours in on the HSN and 2.5 turns on the LSN? My break-in on my 5pt. turbo will be complete tomorrow and was wondering if the tuning procedure was about the same? Thanks in advance

First set the idle gap, .7-1. mm! The low speed setting for the long needle should be close as the needle at idle is the same. You should be able to go leaner on top because it's getting more fuel.

Rex

i would have to agree. i swapped to the short lsn and am around 2.5 turns in on the lsn but i am around 1 turn in on the hsn. this is on a 3R w/ 086 pipe and P3 plug. i was temping around 265 after quals/main last weekend. couldnt be happier after the needle switch!!!

with the short needle

my 7pt is about 2.5-3 turns on the lsn and 2-2.5 turns on the hsn 2047 pipe
and my 3pt race is 2.5 turn lsn and 1-1.5 turns on hsn 0801 pipe

and my 5pt with the long needle is 2-2.5 turn on lsn and .5-1 turn on hsn 2047 pipe

running nova #6 turbo plugs and 25% MM fuel
just make sure your idle gap is between .7-1mm and you should have no problems tuning

Adrian:tire:

Your son is fast, not one mistake in that heat.
What pipe does he have on the .25 Go?

He was running an 086 or 9886. That was actually the main, he lead until a screw in the ackerman plate came out. In the buggy main he ran 30 minutes on the same track and got marshalled twice. Once when a car was stopped in the middle of a corner and once on his victory lap and tried a backflip. He won by 3 laps, he was running a Gen5 5 port in the buggy, it rips! Our Mn Nitro series rocks!

Rex

22Racer,nitro0619, and RETRO....thanks for the info. So I guess the concensus is that the LSN is about the same as with the long needle but the HSN should come into play a bit more? I am currently flush on the HSN and about 2 1/4 turns in on the LSN. I noticed that most people were recommending that I break it in @ 1.5 turns on the LSN, but the engine was way to fat to even stay running through a tank. Once I went to 2 turns, it idled fine and I could actually continue with the break-in (still had raw fuel and plenty of smoke so I wans'nt worried) I haven't attempted to play with the HSN much, but Ill be running it once more today before I put it on the track tomorrow. Just running it in the yard now with my settings, I am very impressed! It seems to be temping around 245. Hopefully leaning the HSN some more will not increase the temps too much! Again, thanks for your help

I can't let this thread slip to page 2. What happened to
everybody? Alright, here is something off the wall.
I think I'm going to try a three needle carb off of my
ninja on my PTM GO 5 port, just for the ---- of it.
Have any of guys tried a three needle carb out on
a GO motor yet?

Maybe it's slipping because all the new carbs are working right?:D

Yea, I have four GO now and three of them run great
with the long or short LS needles. But the carb that
came with my 5 port was a P.O.S. from the start.
I swapped carbs off of my 7 port and it runs great.
No big deal I just bought up a few novarossi carbs
and run one on it. One bad carb out of four isn't
that bad. As a matter of fact out ot the last ten
motors that I have bought, this was the only one
with a bad carb. I guess a carb setting on the shelf
of shame is better than a whole motor. Ha!Ha!Ha!

last night while running at a club race, the pin on my crankshaft snapped off. (the pin that attaches the con rod to the crank) anybody have this happen to them. the motor has about 4 gallons total on it.

Never heard of that happening. Possibly there was alot of rod slop?

Rex

i just put in a new piston about 3/4 of gallon ago. so that can't be the issue.

the motor was on it's second gallon when i started to run the gen 2 fuel from byron. the piston and sleeve were out at about the full gallon mark. a guy i know had a motor deal with race factor so he was able to replace the piston for, not the sleeve. don't ask about only the piston, just that it was just the piston. i will take what i can get for free if you know what i mean. i started running tq fuel since about the beginning of the first full gallon. have ran the motor great for the last gallon and a half on tq fuel. always using after run oil, watching temps and performance.

but this is something that many people from any forum have not seen, just seems odd to break in that particular spot

Why was the piston/sleeve done at 1 gallon?


Running overly rich will cause excessive wear and strain on the crank pin and rod bushing.

I've got 5 gallons on my PTM 3R.....all original internals.