Windays

Took it out and tried it, it won't even stay running. reset back to factory needle settings and it just dies after 3-4 seconds. I can keep it running if I consistently blip the throttle every couple of seconds. It's running like crap at this point though and it shifts but if you give it any throttle after it shifts it just pegs the redline instantly. I can't really see where it would be leaking as well, it doesn't look like any fuel or vapors are spraying from around the head, the carb or the needles. The chassis from the fuel tank back is definitely covered in fuel residue though. Appreciate the help but I think this thing may have been a dud from the factory. I mean even during break in I had tons of trouble keeping this thing going. I'll chalk it up as a $500 mistake. I'm just gonna use it as target practice and pack it with some Tannerite and send it on it's way.

petersen114

have you re tightened all of the engine screws after the initial run in? Have you removed the clutch and checked the front bearing, etc… Just because something is loose doesn’t mean it will leak fuel. Also have you mentioned that from the fuel tank back is covered with fuel. You could have a small crack in the fuel tank.

Windays

I checked the fuel tank and it's not leaking anywhere. The fuel pressure seems good. I ran it today, I actually got it tuned running good and it was shifting at WOT. then it started running like crap, not shifting and dying at idle after 2-3 seconds. I did notice the needles seem very very sensitive and it's sensitive to fuel level changes. If I tune it and getting it running good at a full tank at 3/4 it will be very lean, especially on the low end and start moving on it's own. I tried the trick of tuning it at a half tank but it would just die after idling 2-3 seconds with a full tank. at empty it would be very lean and start running off. It seems extremely hard to tune because of that and I think that's why I've been having so much trouble. I don't know if that's indicative of an air leak or not. Should I have to remove the body and tune for differing fuel tank levels? That seems kind of a PITA.

Now though at the end of the last run it just started revving up and not moving and upon pinching the fuel lines it revved way up before it died. I checked and it looks like the flywheel moves independent of the clutch bell. Removing the clutch I don't know how to do, I'll have to watch a video on how to do it so I can check.

Windays

Just wanted to say I appreciate the help from everyone, However I'm just going to shelve this thing and stick with electric from now on. I thought it would be kind of fun to toy around with and just a different experience, and it was, but not really the experience I was looking for. Not sure if I'm not understanding the tuning aspect of it or if something else was going on with it not shifting reliably into second but I was thinking because it wouldn't shift into second and it sounded like the engine bogged down that it was running too lean however I think something else was going on with it. Maybe transmission related but the clutch on the engine is done and I can turn the flywheel and it doesn't turn the wheels or the piston in the engine. As for the fuel all over the car, I honestly can't tell where it's leaking from if it is leaking, and if it's from the exhaust it's all the way up about halfway down the fuel tank. Didn't even get 2 quarts of fuel through it so not too thrilled honestly.

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

Sorry to hear about it, I just got a Revo 3.3 and noticed my throttle trim at 0 was too high and not closing the carb all the way, which caused some issues. If you ever get back to it, make sure all of your throttle points are set correctly (trim, full brake, full throttle), else you will have issues with the idle screw seemingly not doing anything.

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

You are almost certainly making too-large adjustments to the engine. If you've ever tuned a carburetor on any engine before, you know that getting the ideal fuel mixture can require adjustments so fine it sometimes feels like you didn't make any adjustment at all -- turning a mixture screw just enough to break the friction on its O-ring, allowing it to rest at an ever-so-slightly different position than it was before. All that crap about half-turns or quarter-turns is badly exaggerated. Once you've gotten the engine to where it will run at all, the adjustments you'll need to make to fine-tune it will be less than the width of the screwdriver slot.

WAAAAAIT A SECOND. You can turn the flywheel by hand, and it doesn't rotate the internal components of the engine? The flywheel is loose. The engine will never run properly with a loose flywheel.

Windays

That was one of the first thing's I did. I made sure at neutral throttle the carb closed fully. I also had to take off the servo horns and also adjust the arm lengths for the dual servo's so they weren't fighting each other and they were as neutral as possible at 0 trim.

At first I think I was making too large of adjustments but I also think it's been running extremely rich all along and when I was leaning it out and it acted like it was bogging down and not shifting into second, there was either something wrong with the transmission or something wrong with the flywheel. Running extremely rich is the only reason I can think of as to why there's so much fuel everywhere unless there is a leak somewhere.

And yes I can turn the flywheel by hand and it doesn't move the piston inside when I had the glow plug out nor does it move the wheels. It turns, acts like it's catching on something and then goes right past it and repeats. I'll pull it out and look at it and try to figure out what's wrong with it eventually but right now I'm kind of annoyed by it.

kgombe

iTrader: (13)

couple things,

if you have fuel all over your car and you didn’t spill you have to find the leak.. if you can turn the flywheel and it’s not turn over the engine it’s loose, if it’s loose it is probably worn out to the point where it will never fully tighten. So you need a new one.. these two things must be fixed for the engine to run. If you don’t fix those 2 things it will never run properly

fyrstormer

iTrader: (1)

When you say there's fuel "everywhere", where exactly is it? Post a picture if you can.

Windays

Windays

Pretty much all over the rear end of the car, up the shocks and fuel tank. I believe that was after only 1 or 2 runs after I cleaned it.

1995 Monster T

First thing to check is the fuel filter. I doubt you have one. The truck dosen't come with one. Second thing to do is to see if fuel is spraying out of carb with the air filter off and blocking the tune pipe. If not then the problem is a blocked carb needle. You will have to disassemble carb and clean the blockage and add a fuel filter. IF fuel is coming out check your glow plug and make sure its glowing bright yellow. Re set you carb back to factory settings. I suggest 4-1/2 turns high. and low 1/2 turn out from flush from inside lip ring. It is easier to set carb with a caliper .025 out from carb lever. A rich engine will last longer. Use fuel with 14-18 oil lube.

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

Is your pipe bolted down on the hanger wire? Looks like it's missing. Maybe it's flopping around and leaking?

Windays

When I get time I will have to inspect it all. No fuel filter on it. I didn't see any fuel spraying out when I took off the air filter.

That's how it came. I know it flexes, but it can't move that much. It's not bolted to anything though no. I still don't see how it would get on the easy start and some of the other parts of the car though from the exhaust. It's almost like it's leaking out from around the cooling head or the engine itself somehow.

1995 Monster T

No fuel filler? is one reason a engine won't start. As I suggested you will have to clean out the carb and make sure there is no blockage and add a fuel filter and re set the carb back to my recommended settings. Any fuel residual on the outside of the case means a leak. Exhaust or engine block bearing are the main causes. Make sure to have plenty of glow plugs on hand. Too many people follow the manufacture carb settings only to end up with buying a new engine. These engine run great id you open the carb setting a little more.