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TRX 3.3 Won't start

Old 07-03-2022, 08:59 AM
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With things leaking and falling apart and not running I'm not sure if I would call them great engines or great cars. Just my opinion. Also I mean I've barely ran two quarts of fuel through this thing. It's right out of break in. Possible broken or loose flywheel, leaking engine from the manufacturer, who knows what else is wrong with it. I'm also perplexed why if it needs a fuel filter it wouldn't come with one.

Last edited by Windays; 07-03-2022 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 07-03-2022, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Windays View Post
With things leaking and falling apart and not running I'm not sure if I would call them great engines or great cars. Just my opinion. Also I mean I've barely ran two quarts of fuel through this thing. It's right out of break in. Possible broken or loose flywheel, leaking engine from the manufacturer, who knows what else is wrong with it. I'm also perplexed why if it needs a fuel filter it wouldn't come with one.
Normal break-in is 8-10 tanks. Then you can make small carb adjustments. You have been rushing it and making too large carb adjustments. The only adjustment you should be making is the idle to keep the engine running. After 8-10 tanks you can start to drive it slow. I have 10 t maxx's and all run fine when properly broke in and tuned. Rite now you have no fuel to the engine and that requires you to clean out the carb blockage and hope for the best that you didn't lean the engine out too fast ruining your engine. Add a fuel filter and try again. Check the plug and starter battery are good and give it a go with my recommended carb settings. I have never turned the high past 4-1/2 turn on my trucks. The low should be close in not on with my settings. Once you get it stop buying fuel by the quarts . It's a big rip off!
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Old 07-04-2022, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 1995 Monster T View Post
Normal break-in is 8-10 tanks. Then you can make small carb adjustments. You have been rushing it and making too large carb adjustments. The only adjustment you should be making is the idle to keep the engine running. After 8-10 tanks you can start to drive it slow. I have 10 t maxx's and all run fine when properly broke in and tuned. Rite now you have no fuel to the engine and that requires you to clean out the carb blockage and hope for the best that you didn't lean the engine out too fast ruining your engine. Add a fuel filter and try again. Check the plug and starter battery are good and give it a go with my recommended carb settings. I have never turned the high past 4-1/2 turn on my trucks. The low should be close in not on with my settings. Once you get it stop buying fuel by the quarts . It's a big rip off!
I just followed the manual. I've never leaned it past factory settings, I've never been able to. I also bought a gallon of fuel but have only been able to use a quart because of the issue's I've had.
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Old 07-05-2022, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Windays View Post
I just followed the manual. I've never leaned it past factory settings, I've never been able to. I also bought a gallon of fuel but have only been able to use a quart because of the issue's I've had.
The manual is only good for carb settings. I take 8-10 tanks @ idle before I start to drive a new a engine and tuning.1/2 that for a used engines. Your problem was you didn't add a fuel filter to prevent crap from blocking the carb which can lean out the engine and cause damage. You now have to remove the carb and clean out the high needle screw and the metering jet same side of carb opposite the low needle. Make sure its clear and put back together and set carb again and add a fuel filter. $4. Tip: every time you put fuel in the tank dust partials or foreign derby you can see can fall in the tank and overtime it will get stuck in the carb blocking the fuel flow. Engine will then not start and you have leaned out the engine. A fuel filter will prevent this. Most nitro don't come with a fuel filter or tell you to use one.
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Old 07-05-2022, 09:50 AM
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Side note, I used to use fuel filters way back, but then stopped, haven't used one for 10 plus years. the tank already has a filter in it.

The fuel filter usually adds another point for leakage and problems.. this is just my experience, only time I ever seen a block carb is due fuel with high oil content... like what they used to call "Break in Fuel" back in the day. cause more trouble than anything else..


This is just my experience.

Good luck with your car .
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Old 07-05-2022, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by kgombe View Post
Side note, I used to use fuel filters way back, but then stopped, haven't used one for 10 plus years. the tank already has a filter in it.

The fuel filter usually adds another point for leakage and problems.. this is just my experience, only time I ever seen a block carb is due fuel with high oil content... like what they used to call "Break in Fuel" back in the day. cause more trouble than anything else..


This is just my experience.

Good luck with your car .
From what I had read, I agree with it just being another point for leakage. I'll take it all apart eventually, probably whenever I get the itch to mess with it again. I just have my electric cars and they work and pretty low maintenance, just shocks and diffs for the most part, so easy to keep running. I wonder if maybe the flywheel wasn't on right from Traxxas and that's why I had issue's leaning it out and it bogging down and not shifting. I also noticed temps skyrocketing after one or two pulls like right after the break in period, maybe it was binding up or catching. I'll have to take the motor out so I can get the flywheel off and see. Thanks for the help.
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Old 07-05-2022, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Windays View Post
From what I had read, I agree with it just being another point for leakage. I'll take it all apart eventually, probably whenever I get the itch to mess with it again. I just have my electric cars and they work and pretty low maintenance, just shocks and diffs for the most part, so easy to keep running. I wonder if maybe the flywheel wasn't on right from Traxxas and that's why I had issue's leaning it out and it bogging down and not shifting. I also noticed temps skyrocketing after one or two pulls like right after the break in period, maybe it was binding up or catching. I'll have to take the motor out so I can get the flywheel off and see. Thanks for the help.
I would recommend you take a good look at .tit. I never assume a RTR is ready to race. I have well over 10 Tmaxx's all second hand and inspected everyone. For the most part they were close but all need minor adjustments. The carb settings are close to the recommended factory settings, but I have learned to open them more to find the best settings with the fuel I use. I have electric but hate waiting for battery packs to charge. Nitro has a longer leering curve but is fun one you get it. Rember richer is better for nitro than leaning it out. Hope you get it running again.
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Old 07-05-2022, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by kgombe View Post
Side note, I used to use fuel filters way back, but then stopped, haven't used one for 10 plus years. the tank already has a filter in it.

The fuel filter usually adds another point for leakage and problems.. this is just my experience, only time I ever seen a block carb is due fuel with high oil content... like what they used to call "Break in Fuel" back in the day. cause more trouble than anything else..


This is just my experience.

Good luck with your car .
Not all tanks have fuel filters. I run kyosho 1/8 and they never had one in the kit nore recommended one. I have rc10gt with filters in tanks. A Blocked carb is blocked not from too much oil it happens from when you fill your tanks up outside and contaminates in the air can get inside Dust hair ect.. You won't see it fall in until the engine stops and leans out. I have had it happen once and I learned the hard way. A new engine. The carb had crap and junk blocking it. I cleaned it out but too late. Now I only run fuel filters and.If crap gets stuck in the filter the engine will just shut off and I clean it and back to good again. A save guard is better than a buying new engine. They don't leak if tightened. I have been running them for 30 yrs. now.


Break-in fuel is just another gimmick to get you to buy. I run fuel with 18% oil lube in all my engines. 14-18% oil lube is all you need. Race blend has less oil for racing and should not be used for backyard bashing.
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Old 07-07-2022, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 1995 Monster T View Post
Break-in fuel is just another gimmick to get you to buy. I run fuel with 18% oil lube in all my engines. 14-18% oil lube is all you need. Race blend has less oil for racing and should not be used for backyard bashing.
100% of the time, this statement has been proven wrong everytime. It's an antiquated, not backed by actual modern real world use, way of thinking.
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Old 07-07-2022, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 1995 Monster T View Post
Not all tanks have fuel filters. I run kyosho 1/8 and they never had one in the kit nore recommended one. I have rc10gt with filters in tanks. A Blocked carb is blocked not from too much oil it happens from when you fill your tanks up outside and contaminates in the air can get inside Dust hair ect.. You won't see it fall in until the engine stops and leans out. I have had it happen once and I learned the hard way. A new engine. The carb had crap and junk blocking it. I cleaned it out but too late. Now I only run fuel filters and.If crap gets stuck in the filter the engine will just shut off and I clean it and back to good again. A save guard is better than a buying new engine. They don't leak if tightened. I have been running them for 30 yrs. now.


Break-in fuel is just another gimmick to get you to buy. I run fuel with 18% oil lube in all my engines. 14-18% oil lube is all you need. Race blend has less oil for racing and should not be used for backyard bashing.

Not here to to Argue, but I race offroad and my first race car was a Revo, back when MT was a class. and off road is dusty and re-fuel is a must for long mains.. So yes I have refuelled outside for years and have my engines run a long time... the topic is about a Revo and they have a filter in the tank.

As for race fuel not having enough oil for break in.. this has been proven to be a myth, as again, we break our engines in with the same fuel we race with.. this was before EBIS and some of us still break our engines in that way...


now back to the topic at hand. you need to take you engine out out and have a good look at it. I believe you have a leak some where. and also get the hanger exhaust . have a look at the head make sure it is not cracked. make sure the head is tighten down properly, but I will say if all that oil is come from ez start you may have a leaky one way bearing which was always a problem these cars. if you having problems on a new vehicle, you can send the engine back to Traxxas for a look. they may send you a new one.

but your clutch needs attending to first and for most then the leak

good luck
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Old 07-08-2022, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by kgombe View Post
Not here to to Argue, but I race offroad and my first race car was a Revo, back when MT was a class. and off road is dusty and re-fuel is a must for long mains.. So yes I have refuelled outside for years and have my engines run a long time... the topic is about a Revo and they have a filter in the tank.

As for race fuel not having enough oil for break in.. this has been proven to be a myth, as again, we break our engines in with the same fuel we race with.. this was before EBIS and some of us still break our engines in that way...


now back to the topic at hand. you need to take you engine out out and have a good look at it. I believe you have a leak some where. and also get the hanger exhaust . have a look at the head make sure it is not cracked. make sure the head is tighten down properly, but I will say if all that oil is come from ez start you may have a leaky one way bearing which was always a problem these cars. if you having problems on a new vehicle, you can send the engine back to Traxxas for a look. they may send you a new one.

but your clutch needs attending to first and for most then the leak

good luck
I would prefer not to deal with Traxxas, their customer service was atrocious and hung up on me both times I called. Not impressed and not impressed with the product. Besides that though yeah I know what I need to do but focusing on running my other stuff for now and just having fun and I'll get to it one day. In hindsight I really wish I had gotten the Losi 8ight buggy instead. Might have been a different experience.
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Old 07-08-2022, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kgombe View Post
Not here to to Argue, but I race offroad and my first race car was a Revo, back when MT was a class. and off road is dusty and re-fuel is a must for long mains.. So yes I have refuelled outside for years and have my engines run a long time... the topic is about a Revo and they have a filter in the tank.

As for race fuel not having enough oil for break in.. this has been proven to be a myth, as again, we break our engines in with the same fuel we race with.. this was before EBIS and some of us still break our engines in that way...


now back to the topic at hand. you need to take you engine out out and have a good look at it. I believe you have a leak some where. and also get the hanger exhaust . have a look at the head make sure it is not cracked. make sure the head is tighten down properly, but I will say if all that oil is come from ez start you may have a leaky one way bearing which was always a problem these cars. if you having problems on a new vehicle, you can send the engine back to Traxxas for a look. they may send you a new one.

but your clutch needs attending to first and for most then the leak

good luck
If the engine was running during break in and now dosen't two things can be wrong. No fuel or no fire. If there is a fuel filter in the tank? I would like to see that! Then there is blockage in the tank or the carb. Check glow plug to make sure it glows bright yellow. Make sure the starter wand is functioning good. The glow plug ignitor can fail on the wand. Have a spare glow plug ignitor to test. A engine will run if it has fuel,fire and air even if the engine has minor leaks Which I doubt it has. As it's a new engine. I suspect what is supposed leaks is oil residue from the exhaust that can spray all over the place. If there is a puddle under the motor then you have a leak ant the most common place is the front and rear bearings or exhaust coupler. A simple test to see if fuel is getting to the carb ad threw is remove the pressure line and open the carb so you can see in full throttle and blow hard to see if fuel travels up the line and into the carb. You should see a stream inside the carb .

As for fuel filters : I know for a fact the T -maxx's don't have one!
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Old 07-09-2022, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Windays View Post
In hindsight I really wish I had gotten the Losi 8ight buggy instead. Might have been a different experience.
I can guarantee you that your experience would've been different with the 8ight buggy and not because it's a Losi but rather because it's a standard (or proper depending on ones view) 1/8 platform. You would learn how to tune a standard carb and not that Mickey Mouse traxxas one, you could buy any standard engine down the line and drop it right in, you can used standard 1/8th clutches, pipes, bump boxes, etc, etc.

I'm not claiming you wouldn't have run into issues, you are admittedly new and don't know how to tune well (no insult intended) so you WILL run into issues but tuning a Traxxas carb may teach you bad techniques you will have to undo later.
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Old 07-09-2022, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Windays View Post
I think I'm done with this. I've spent hours trying to get this thing to just run stable going lean, going rich, starting over from factory settings. I've watched a ton of videos on tuning and 99% sure I'm, not doing anything wrong. I just can't find anything that works.

The idle screw does not change my idle speed at all, it just stays the same until I screw it in and it can't stay running. I've set it with feeler gauges to .7-1mm tried .7-.8-.9-1mm. Only way I can control my idle speed is with the LSN. The HSN is a turn and a half out from factory settings. If I start going in from that it runs hot and starts blowing glow plugs. It won't shift at WOT it just revs up and stays there, I have to slowly give it throttle through the powerband. This seemingly gets better if I start richening the HSN to a point. Checked throttle servo and 100% throttle is carb fully open and flush with the carb intake. Everything points to it running too lean, the tailpipe and the mess coming out the back say's waaaaay too rich and I'm blowing plugs which traxxas says means it's too rich but it will hit 300 F and smoke after 2-3 WOT passes if I start leaning it out. I keep trying to richen it but I don't want to just keep going and going. Conversely, leaning it out like I said blows plugs and I don't want to buy glow plugs every 2 tanks which is about what it's averaging. I make very small changes, 1/8-1/16th a turn at a time and do a couple passes.

forgot to add it seems to want to move on it's own and If I lift the truck the wheels will spin like crazy and the engine revs up pretty good. I have to richen the LSN so it doesn't do that because the idle screw does not change the idle speed at all.

Also this was a brand new truck and I did the break in process with the Traxxas factory settings which seem to be too lean but are actually supposed to be very very rich. I've also only used the Traxxas top fuel, 20% to break it in plus 5 more tanks and now I switched to 33%.
Bro is your hot shot charged check that
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Old 07-10-2022, 10:52 AM
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It all comes down to fire and fuel problem! Which I have covered everything There is nothing wrong with traxxas as long as you don't mess with the carb settings.
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