1/8 onroad setup help
#61
wow didnt mean to start a argument but makes some good reading
one thing i have learnt over the years is there are 2 things that make a car
handle how it does one is setup the other is driver input. maybe why so many
diffrent veiws on this but please keep this thread going always things to learn.
one thing i have learnt over the years is there are 2 things that make a car
handle how it does one is setup the other is driver input. maybe why so many
diffrent veiws on this but please keep this thread going always things to learn.
#62
Some F1 humor from last week regarding the subject
#63
Tech Master
Interesting discussion. Yep, we were at Timez... "The Backyard". Scott was, as usual, fast. The track is challenging: Elevation changes, off camber turns, big sweeping on camber turns - just plain exciting and very challenging. First time at the track with the VS powered Capricorn. We had very limited track time due to the large entry field and controlled practice - lots of decisions had to be made on how to get the car fast. Well, Scott qualified 3rd and we were relatively happy with that - unfortunately during the main our rear pulley came loose (Paolo M said I need to change my protein powder) and put Scott in the pit for a lifetime while I tightened the pesky setscrew. Our positive take away was Scott's 15 average fast laps (during the main) were within one tenth of Joaquin Jr and JJ's 15 average fast laps - so, the car and driver were on the mark.
Roelof and Jonathan are spot on about the solid diff and how "lifting" the inside rear tire creates the proper 1/8th scale car rotation. The "lift" doesn't have to be visible, but, it is a huge percentage of correct car setup. It's an easy concept once you see the visual explanation. These cars drift - to go fast you have to create a controlled drift. Here's a little mental cheat list in order of importance for correctly managed "slip": tire durometer, track width, sway bar, spring rate, body, then static camber. Then the Fine tuning steps: shock oil, roll center (which I always think of as camber gain), Ackerman, caster. As the setup gets really close I adjust the camber for effect along with minor toe changes. Watch this very cool video from this weekend. Titled: Controlled drift! Slow motion reveal. Action from "The BackYard"
https://www.facebook.com/pg/Empire-R...=page_internal
I'm sure others have car setup viewpoints that work for them - this just works for my feeble little mind.
Roelof and Jonathan are spot on about the solid diff and how "lifting" the inside rear tire creates the proper 1/8th scale car rotation. The "lift" doesn't have to be visible, but, it is a huge percentage of correct car setup. It's an easy concept once you see the visual explanation. These cars drift - to go fast you have to create a controlled drift. Here's a little mental cheat list in order of importance for correctly managed "slip": tire durometer, track width, sway bar, spring rate, body, then static camber. Then the Fine tuning steps: shock oil, roll center (which I always think of as camber gain), Ackerman, caster. As the setup gets really close I adjust the camber for effect along with minor toe changes. Watch this very cool video from this weekend. Titled: Controlled drift! Slow motion reveal. Action from "The BackYard"
https://www.facebook.com/pg/Empire-R...=page_internal
I'm sure others have car setup viewpoints that work for them - this just works for my feeble little mind.
Last edited by Rich Browne; 07-17-2017 at 07:45 PM.
#64
Here a pic of the fastest guy in Holland, also shot by me.
Here you can clearly see the inner wheel is still touching the ground in a very tight middle speed corner but see how much (or better said: less) it is touching the ground. I am pretty sure with Ralph this is the same because our cars are designed to do this. When running the cars it is very difficult to notice this, even when you want to see this happen you can not see it clearly.
Only on photos and slowmotion movies you can see this.
Here you can clearly see the inner wheel is still touching the ground in a very tight middle speed corner but see how much (or better said: less) it is touching the ground. I am pretty sure with Ralph this is the same because our cars are designed to do this. When running the cars it is very difficult to notice this, even when you want to see this happen you can not see it clearly.
Only on photos and slowmotion movies you can see this.
#65
Interesting discussion. Yep, we were at Timez... "The Backyard". Scott was, as usual, fast. The track is challenging: Elevation changes, off camber turns, big sweeping on camber turns - just plain exciting and very challenging. First time at the track with the VS powered Capricorn. We had very limited track time due to the large entry field and controlled practice - lots of decisions had to be made on how to get the car fast. Well, Scott qualified 3rd and we were relatively happy with that - unfortunately during the main our rear pulley came loose (Paolo M said I need to change my protein powder) and put Scott in the pit for a lifetime while I tightened the pesky setscrew. Our positive take away was Scott's 15 average fast laps (during the main) were within one tenth of Joaquin Jr and JJ's 15 average fast laps - so, the car and driver were on the mark.
Roelof and Jonathan are spot on about the solid diff and how "lifting" the inside rear tire creates the proper 1/8th scale car rotation. The "lift" doesn't have to be visible, but, it is a huge percentage of correct car setup. It's an easy concept once you see the visual explanation. These cars drift - to go fast you have to create a controlled drift. Here's a little mental cheat list in order of importance for correctly managed "slip": tire durometer, track width, sway bar, spring rate, body, then static camber. Then the Fine tuning steps: shock oil, roll center (which I always think of as camber gain), Ackerman, caster. As the setup gets really close I adjust the camber for effect along with minor toe changes. Watch this very cool video from this weekend. Titled: Controlled drift! Slow motion reveal. Action from "The BackYard"
https://www.facebook.com/pg/Empire-R...=page_internal
I'm sure others have car setup viewpoints that work for them - this just works for my feeble little mind.
Roelof and Jonathan are spot on about the solid diff and how "lifting" the inside rear tire creates the proper 1/8th scale car rotation. The "lift" doesn't have to be visible, but, it is a huge percentage of correct car setup. It's an easy concept once you see the visual explanation. These cars drift - to go fast you have to create a controlled drift. Here's a little mental cheat list in order of importance for correctly managed "slip": tire durometer, track width, sway bar, spring rate, body, then static camber. Then the Fine tuning steps: shock oil, roll center (which I always think of as camber gain), Ackerman, caster. As the setup gets really close I adjust the camber for effect along with minor toe changes. Watch this very cool video from this weekend. Titled: Controlled drift! Slow motion reveal. Action from "The BackYard"
https://www.facebook.com/pg/Empire-R...=page_internal
I'm sure others have car setup viewpoints that work for them - this just works for my feeble little mind.
#66
Tech Master
Quite a bit more static camber than normal - plus, Scott typically likes the upper pins in and down - a lot more camber gain than most people prefer. As far as the track surface - "The Backyard" used VP Track Bite and have sealed the track with a sealer that has very little "grit"(damn good seal). Tire wear was fairly low and traction was above average. Car front track is as narrow as possible with minimal scrub sets. I'll measure it this weekend when I do the tear down.
#67
you very well may be fast at your track , that how ever does not mean you are the final word on set up , as for results i have never been in the habit of saving pics of qaulys as my self worth has not been tied to that, that being said ,i am fast enough btw i think 2 post down you agree with the inside unloading?
now weather this needs to happen on every corner i cant say only that it does happen and when properly set up a car will be faster all things being equal
now weather this needs to happen on every corner i cant say only that it does happen and when properly set up a car will be faster all things being equal
#68
Quite a bit more static camber than normal - plus, Scott typically likes the upper pins in and down - a lot more camber gain than most people prefer. As far as the track surface - "The Backyard" used VP Track Bite and have sealed the track with a sealer that has very little "grit"(damn good seal). Tire wear was fairly low and traction was above average. Car front track is as narrow as possible with minimal scrub sets. I'll measure it this weekend when I do the tear down.
#69
#70
#71
#72
thanks rich you used the magic words controlled drift this is what i was trying
to achive when i started this thread been new to 1/8 onroad this is were iam at
i can control the start of the drift mainly with clutch setings but when the clutch is fully out the power starts to get to much and i have to back out of
the throttle so the car does not spin so i end up bliping the throttle and geting
understeer/oversteer any other class and my fix would be easy as going lighter
on the rear diff oil. any advice would be great
thanks rick...
to achive when i started this thread been new to 1/8 onroad this is were iam at
i can control the start of the drift mainly with clutch setings but when the clutch is fully out the power starts to get to much and i have to back out of
the throttle so the car does not spin so i end up bliping the throttle and geting
understeer/oversteer any other class and my fix would be easy as going lighter
on the rear diff oil. any advice would be great
thanks rick...
#73
forgot to ask whats tire durometer,never heard of this
#74
Tech Master
thanks rich you used the magic words controlled drift this is what i was trying
to achive when i started this thread been new to 1/8 onroad this is were iam at
i can control the start of the drift mainly with clutch setings but when the clutch is fully out the power starts to get to much and i have to back out of
the throttle so the car does not spin so i end up bliping the throttle and geting
understeer/oversteer any other class and my fix would be easy as going lighter
on the rear diff oil. any advice would be great
thanks rick...
to achive when i started this thread been new to 1/8 onroad this is were iam at
i can control the start of the drift mainly with clutch setings but when the clutch is fully out the power starts to get to much and i have to back out of
the throttle so the car does not spin so i end up bliping the throttle and geting
understeer/oversteer any other class and my fix would be easy as going lighter
on the rear diff oil. any advice would be great
thanks rick...
1/8th scale, like all classes of cars, have unique needs. The major difference in 1/8th is the monster power and how effectively you can get that power to the ground. You have to learn how to balance the power to the handling - you can't mask the application of power with an improper chassis setup. I am happy to try to help, but, a knowledgeable and willing track coach is your best bet.
#75
Tech Master