NitroWD

iTrader: (5)

can order from rcshopping or rc-mushroom...

keavze

do you guys find that the RS chassis is not 100% flat?

when i place my RS on a setup board, i found that the front and rear of the chassis is above the setup board and not on the board...

maybe my chassis is bent after a couple of crashes but my previous S chassis is still flat on the board even after more crashes!

so...is the RS chassis softer or my RS crashes are harder?

Sp Racer

iTrader: (12)

The RS chassis is very soft.....we need a 4mm RS chassis

Solara

iTrader: (17)

We had similar experience on our G4RS...just like electric TC, loosen up the chassis 4 (or 6) screws, flatten the chassis then tighen it again, no big deal.

But yes, 4mm would help....

keavze

relieved to hear that...

my frd's RS also havng same 'problem'

btw, how do you flatten it back with only 4 or 6 screws LOOSEN? bend it back by hand?

Rick Vessell

iTrader: (10)

Keavze,

Loosen the two roll bar screws and the two rear carbon X brace screws. The car should flatten out on it's own. If it doesn't just press it down flat on the board and then tighten up the screws again. The car def. needs a 4mm chassis or harder 3mm chassis to keep it flat. I'm working on a few things to keep the car flat, I'll post here when I finish it.

Socko

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Do what socko mentioned....that would solved the "problem"

Our chassis did not bend (so does yours)...it is like electric cars with carbon fiber chassis, it got "tweaked"....loose the screws and lay the chassis down and let the chassis flatten it by itself, then tighten the screws back to the original. That would solved the problem...

But yes, if the chassis material is stronger or thicker, the TWEAK would not happened that easily.

Socko....whatoever you are "working" on....I need one...

P.S...you have the extra kit, double up the 3mm chassis and make it 6mm....problem solved.

razzor

Great to see you guys having success with teh RS
Especially seeing you guys come from running other top brands.
Cool to see dennis Storti back running a TM

Ill stick out teh year with my G4S and look at the new RS or what ever is available then.

On the heat/RX issue mentioned, to date i have had no issues and i have been running my Spektrum reciever with out a balloon.
Cant see heat being a issue.
Would recommend you guys go the lipo rx batt route, it makes a noticeable difference especially in a long main.
Im using a 800mah lipo from a Walkera helicopter and comfortably can run 45 mins so a larger pack would have a margin of safety and consistent performance.

Sp Racer

iTrader: (12)

Maybe the G4S chassis dissipates heat better around the receiver - we have 2 G4RS's and have been absolutely plagued by radio issues since we first put the cars on the track - we have had various servos, spektrum and normal receiver combinations to no avail....even tried a Lipo receiver pack at one stage thinking that was the problem..

Using a normal 40mhz receiver, every time the glow igniter goes near the engine the steering and throttle servos go crazy - tried different radios, receivers, antenna routing, antenna posts etc etc...

Just when we think we have it sorted out, it rears it's nasty head again - last weekend before my final,(after being glitch free for 3 club days in a row) with the engine running I would pull full throttle and the servo would stay this way for up to 5 seconds after I took my finger off the trigger, lucky I still had the car on the starter box....( my son's car would do almost the same thing once the engine reached high rpm's )

I ended up switching over to 2 different spektrum receivers that had not been in these cars.
We managed to run the final glitch free, however I am confident in saying that it's almost a certainty that this will happen to us again, these will be receivers number 5 and 6, 1 thru 4 have done the very same.

It's almost like the receiver loses power when the engine hits high rpm, and then takes a moment to reset and regain control of the servos.

Another racer that uses the RS down here has fitted the spektrum mini receiver and has not had any problems - his is mounted under the transponder away from the engine.

I have ordered 2 X KO 2.4Ghz module and receivers and I will be mounting the receiver up the front where the transponder sits..

Perhaps the RS chassis needs a slot under the receiver for cooling?

razzor

Have you tried wrapping teh recievers in a foil and then mounting it ???
Sounds like at high rpm there is some kind of harmonics that is generating a electrical/magnetic field.

I do know of guys having issues with KO recievers and the Futaba FASST but no real; hassles with Spektrum.

Would be wise for TM to make a reciever box to fit in the stock location though.

razzor

Yeah the G4S is still alive and kicking
Sometimes guys just get caught up in the hype and get something else thinking it will be better when they havent spent enough time getting to know what they have.

nc racer

iTrader: (1)

heys guys,

I'm new to on-rosd nitro and was thinking about buying this chassis for sedan drag racing and some track running. i have a few questions if you would bear with my ignorance.

1. what is the largest sized engine you can put on it? and what recommendations on a good but not extremely expensive engine do you have?

2. what type of serves do i need to get.

3. is the heat problem as mentioned a couple of posts above a real issue or just an isolated incident?

4. what kind of speed is it capable of with a .12 or .15?

5. can you put a pull start enhine on it or is it starter box only?


like i said, i'm a newbie when it comes to this stuff so please kepp the flames down to a dull roar :-)

charlesd

Size of engine is really on what you want to do. If you plan to race a bit in a club later on then i would suggest that you pick up a 3 port .12 engine right away. that way your are legal at any track.
Jlr red dot goes for about 180$ and is a good engine.

I use one high torque with metal gears up front. I presently have a TS70 upfront. 130 oz of torque but it's .2 sec. some guys like faster up front. For my gas and brake i have a regular hitec.

Can't answer the heat problem as i run the g4s still.

We hit around 45-50mph at our track on the back straight-- again that depends on track and gearing.

Starter box engine only. It's tough fitting a .12 in there, i can't imagine with a pullstart!!!

nc racer

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the reply charles! looks like i may need to do some additional research and maybe get a separate car for dragging.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

so true Razzor. i have seen a few guys move to other brands and are having different problems now, and some arent as fast as they used to be. i love the TM, only a couple of issues left to sort out to make it the car to have. id rather spend my time getting this car right, than to switch and start over. too many spares to do such a change. only thing i dont have is the E4, electric doesnt appeal to me.