razzor

Bud I dont change tyres according to temp or track temp but rather on amount of grip available.
At my local track everybody has this idea that soft rear tyres have more traction and even more so on the new surface we put down recently.40f with 35r is popular combo used.
I am the only guy that is using 40's or 42's all round and absolutely love the car with the harder tyres.I have much more confidence in corners with the harder tyres and as soon as i change to softer 35 or 37 shore then the back end gets all happy when on power out of corners.
In winter our average temp is around a dry 26/28 degc and in summer around a humid 34/36 degc
Track temp can be around 28/30 in winter and up to 40+ in summer.

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

that .12 JLR Red-Dot has way more power than 1.6hp.

I was keeping up with a modded .12TZ 3-port last time I was at the track, and my engine only has 6 tanks through it and isnt even tuned for performance.

ALG

This engine also looks good
http://http://www.rcmart.com/catalog...ducts_id=24250
I have reports form AFM that this engine is VERY NICE and TORKY I also think is a good deal, comes complet and is the same as the NINJA, the only problem is that WE G4 are not Mugen like

The JL is a good engine, take a look at the forum were they talk about the engine.
You may also take a look at the PICCO EVO3 engine. at www.rcmart.com

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

Uh, you can't really believe those manufacturer HP numbers. Many people consider those estimated and not actual. For comparison, many people use the Nitrodyne Systems Dyno (http://www.nitrodynesystems.com) results (the dyno used by Xtreme R/C Cars Magazine) to evaluate and compare engine performance. These are more "real world" peformance figures. Unfortunatley, all the engines don't get tested on this dyno.

In any case, for the JLR, it would probably be best to get a Murnan Modified version. A guy I race with, who is very smart engine wise (he has several years of real-size drag racing under his belt and his son is pretty much number one at our track at the moment with an original stock CRF) says that the stock JLR is good, but would be much better if it were modded. Indirectly, he indicated that it's slower than the Murnan +12-3SCT that he usually runs.

razzor

The JLR is very similar to the Mega DSII motors which is also made by Picco.
Pretty impressive motor.

dnitro

I've seen people in the track, A-main guys, who use the JLR, that they do not modify it. It is simply ballistic in stock form and doesn't need mod. Jeffrey Lin (JL) uses this motor in stock form and has many races at Rev. And he is the only one that I know who runs the Hobao GPX4 and has much success with it using the stock JLR.

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

It's fast - no doubt about that. Is it as fast as everything else? I think it depends on the driver and mechanic.

There are 3 Red Dots at our track that I know of. The one I already mentioned. Another used by another racer - and he is just a tad slower with it in his RRR than me in my Mugen with the CRF and another guy, who gave up on being able to tune it, so he sold it to the 2nd guy and went back to using his TZ.

You are talking about "The Jeffrey Lin" - certainly one of racing's finest. If all of us here were as good as he is, then I'm sure we could all get away with driving a stock Red Dot.

If Kodak is going to go buy a Red Dot, I would rather see him get a modded one - just like the one Robert Maestrey ran at the Winternats, than a stock one. For about $100 more, he can get the fastest Red Dot you can buy. What's wrong with that?

We all show up at the track with different skills and equipment. If we're still working on our skills, having the best equipment can improve our chances of doing well.

Just my opinion.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

i suggested the red dot as it is similar to the IDM evo2 which is quite quick. he has run 2 std motors one being ZX12, and the TZ. the red dot is more on the budget side i know, but still a fast engine. as you know Kodak is having probs with setup. putting a balistic motor in a car hes having troubles getting rear grip is just going to be , well you know, worse. also experience is required in tuning them for the motors to last. thats one other thing Kodak is requiring. so im sure it would be better to turn a stock red dot into a paper weight rather than a more expensive motor. thats why i suggested something faster but not so expensive. if you want a modded version, try the IDM EVO3, it is a power house.

gansei

i attacted Knack Front Solid Shock on My G4S.

But Knack Front Solid Shock need solid exclusive use Shock tower.

only MTX-4,RRR's solid exclusive use Shock tower was released.

so i remodel my G4S shock tower to low center shape.

Knack Front Solid Shock's body is very shorter than normal one.

i expect fast response in cornering.

i also see that MTX-4(Knack Solid shock embeded)'s sharp activity.


once.. i will try Knack Solid shock in my Front Diff system.

if too quick or too hard to drive.. i will change solid. and retry..

g4smalta

Hi all,

Here in Malta we have a very bumpy track. When I set up the car in the origional springs and 60w oil in certain parts of the track the car is bouncing. I have also all the extra pack of springs (8 if I remember). Can any one tell me spring rates of each - including the standard ones. Also what shock oil do you suggest with each spring?

Thanks for your help.
Ray

rcrevolution

iTrader: (1)

gansei overkill much on the carbon fiber?

razzor

Id suggest trying a 45w or 50w and also try one color softer spring from the set.
The label on the spring box has the springs listed in order and you can get there specs from the G4S thread on www.nitrokb.com thanks to rmdhawaii.

g4smalta

Thanks for your help

Ray

rmdhawaii

iTrader: (4)

I hear ya.

With regards to the rear grip issue, I'm hoping with all this good advice he is getting from everyone, he'll have that problem resolved within 1-2 meetings.

ALG

Try
purple front
pink rear

with the 60wt first and then the 50wt. Try-Try-Try, no short cut for experience.