Originally Posted by RayJ

I just looked over his set-up on 3hobby.net, and have to say his set-up is very similar to what I ran last year. Guys it is an awesome starting set-up. He makes some comments about narrowing the front end for more steering. He is quite right. I ran mine at 195mm all last year on the front end. It is a must. Car has way more corner entry and on-power steering.

Comments:
This car seems to like one shore softer in the front end wherever I raced. Please keep this in mind!!!! Try and stick with one brand of tire!!! It makes a huge difference in your set-ups. 37 or 38 shore fronts worked almost everywhere. I almost always ran 40 shore rears. If you race on a really high bite track you might try gluing the sidewalls of the 37 or 38 shore fronts with superglue or switching to 40 shore fronts. The idea here is to run the most traction possible w/o making the car loose or making it a bear on traction rolling. If the 40 shore fronts have to much traction superglue them as well. This is a tuning tip that really works.

Rear Camber set-up. Lower inside link....upper outside link. This car LIKES rear camber. Give it to the car!! I ran 4 degrees LHS and 3.5 degrees RHS. This is with the Hudy set-up gauges. If your using the plastic thingy that goes up against the tire I don't know what those numbers for camber are.
Car track width 200mm.

Rear sway Bar. Flat is probably a good starting point, but I haven't tried the new bar yet, but I have a feeling it will be at 90 degrees.

Front toe-out: I ran 1.5 degrees toe out both sides all last year. The car has lots of turn-in and lots of on power steering using 1.5 degrees. You will have to "drive" the car more on straights because of the toe-out but corners are where races are won.

Front Camber: LHS 2 degrees. RHS 1.5 degrees. Many people set-up there car the same one side to the next. That's okay....... but most on-road courses have more HIGH speed right handers. The car therefore needs a little more LHS camber to compensate for more high speed body roll to keep the tire planted.

Shocks and pistons: I ran two holes pistons with 60wt all last year. If your running the car for the first time, stick with that. The car will be fine. You will most likely experiment with pistons and oils when traction is very very high(traction rolling probelms). Here again you want to tune with tires first.

Springs: Kit springs make the car easy to drive almost everywhere. I ended up running one spring rate higher up front vs the rear. Like Team Magic Aqua up front and Rose in the rear.

Body Selection: What a huge tool!! I ran the Mazda 6 and Status 3.1 last year. The mazda 6 feels very responsive and very responsive. It will add just a little more steering to the car, but the car will feel more twitchy and loose at the rear wheels. I really like the Startus 3.1. It really settles the car down based on the set-ups I used. With the 3.1 you give up just a tad of front end bite because you gain alot more rear traction. If you put the bodies next to each other you will see why that makes sense. The 3.1 made the car alot more predictable, and easier to drive in the mains.

Tire Bias......front to rear. I like having a split of 1.5mm to 2mm. The car has way more on power steering and corner entry. 60mm rears and 58.5mm fronts. Please keep in mind this is with stock gearing.

Ride height: 5mm up front and 5.5mm rear. Or neutral.

DIFF Oil: I think the kit oil is 10,000 wt oil. If seems light compared to Mugen, Ofna and others. I have no idea how they grade them because they don't seem to use the same scale of grading. I get three grades of oil from the SAME MFR. , and use this as a base. The kit oil should give you lots of corner entry using the above set-up tips, because the oil feels light. Light oil will sacrifice a little on exit acelleration(car will diff more). I like to tune with these thoughts in mind. If the car has lots of turn-in and is not loose at all I will likely go up in diff oil weight to gain some corner exit acceleration.

WHEW LONG winded post but I hope this stuff may help some of you.

Originally Posted by RayJ

Hey Mike nice job. Gotta remember to charge those batteries bud!!

A little suggestion try the VR12 Skyline pipe. If you try it you'll really notice a difference when you put the hammer down!!

Originally Posted by sfelish

Great Pics... lets hold the worlds in Puerta Vallarta, Mexico... love that place, blue ocean, white sand beaches.... very strong Pina Collatas.... okay back to reality here, ... desert, catus.... but for my friends back east and up north ... today was a pleasant 83 degress!!!!! Got to love it!

Originally Posted by mfavela

Hi Ray, sure, the only problem is that i only had a 10 minutes to charge my batteries between Main B and Main A, and i have no other pack of batteries, just the one that comes with the kit

Tnx for your suggestion, i'm already waiting for that pipe

Originally Posted by sfelish

I could forget my wife...but my new G4s... NEVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That sounds like a great place to go, just may try that this fall.


G4S available at winners circle or www.racedayhobbies.com ... lol...

I have built my car the last couple fo days... sometimes business gets in the way of fun! I am with everyone else this car went together easy, directions are good and each package made everything follow a pattern. Very well thought out.

The car looks great and very solid. I am going to take it out and try it as soon as my engine comes in. Thanks to everyone for the setups posted and I will post on racedayhobbies.com setup used at Ft Meyers. These excellent drivers should be able to give us a lot of great input.... Can't wait!

Sam

Originally Posted by Car Breaker

I notice that the battery pack of G4S has a plasitc parts on it to hold the battery in place.
this part mean that we cannot make our own pack unless someone sell the parts alone.
Is that anyway people can get extra pack or the parts alone?