Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

ill double check the sway bar tonight, i am sure its right in front of me screaming at me saying OI her is the problem!!!

ill take some photos later

cheers again!

revo523

iTrader: (8)

Anybody had problems with this popping out to much causing the clutch to stay engage because this is the problem i have with mines any help will be appreciated.

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

never had this happen before, is everything correct allighned from the manul, just go back do it all again, and make sure that everything sitts well inside snuggly - you will need to take some more photos, if possible in how you set the shoes on the flywheel

I hope we can help, this is the right place for questions!!!

razzor

Could you take some more pics and with it stripped.
The pic above isnt very clear.

royfan33

iTrader: (8)

Are those the centrifugal shoes you're using? Those are for an older style G4 clutch, and will not work properly with a UFO clutch. If you have the older style clutch thats ok, but I see the ED style bell you have. I don't know if the bells interchange between the different versions of clutch. Maybe someone whos been running the G4 since before the G4S can help...

British Menace

Unfortunately they are the old style of clutch shoes and wont work with the new G4s clutch and ED trans' system.

I haven't acually put the two different sets next to each other but if memory servs, the older style are slightly bigger.

That could be where your problem lies.

Hope this helps.

Menace

royfan33

iTrader: (8)

Wow, I got G4S post #5000 and didn't realize it.........This place is rockin

asil

guys, I'm on just edge of an important decision willing to buy crf 2007 engine.. did you use crf on G4S? ZOOM or AFM.. I'm not sure but I think you use this engine.. Can I use ufo clutch with this engine or I have to buy crf v6 clutch set or upgrade set.. Any ideas??

Asil

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

http://doylecrash.com.au/video_files/g4.avi

Right Click Save As - guys, its a video show casing what the car does with all sway bars in all droop set to 0 Front and Rear also right height set to 5mm front and rear aswell!

I have also freed up the arm on the right side, but i ask you all do just go push a rear corner of ya car and see what the outcome is!!!

Remember as you see the left side of the car is ok, only yhe right front is weird!

Another note the chasis is not tweaked!!!

Hope you can help Cheers

British Menace

Hey Frankie,
Quick question,
If you leave the sway bar mounts on, hinge pins in, shocks not attached but leave off the front braceing bar (the part which goes accross the front of the sway bar mounts and locates on to the hinge pins)

Do you still have the problem?
If you don't push the hinge pins all the way into the rear holes but keep the sway bar and the front brace bar on, do you still have the problem?

I think I had the problem you have, only I hadn't finnished building the car nor ran it when I could see there was a binding problem.

Ended up reaming bottom arms, sway bar mounts and front braceing bar and also putting small thin shims bewean the bar mounts and the baulkheads. This stopped the pin going too far back into the rear locating hole. I believe on mine these did not line up as they should have??

All seams well now after the work so, maybe.
I don't know how, but I hope this helps in some small way Frankie.

I know you've had alot of advice thrown at you on this. I am sure the family will get you over this hurdle. As Serpentd says, we are all gaining experience here from each others experiences. So thankyou for sharing yours with us.

Best of luck tonight on the problem.

Menace

dnitro

The old version of the clutch does has the tendancy to pop out if you don't have the clutch set correctly. Tighten the clutch nut a bit more and decrease the clutch gap and end play. There is an updated version of the silver ring that pushes on the clutch shoes. The updated version is suppose to be a little wider, which prevents the clutch shoes from "sticking" between the flywheel.

You cannot interchange the UFO clutch parts. The UFO clutch bell has more surface area than the old clutch.

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

Oi Menace,

i will check it out in 30mins, as going to Toy000 house to see what the thinks, ill make sure i check what you have written and get back onto you!!!

i never check this before, so it might have been there all along, LOL

Ahh the joys of little gremlins!

Keep posted as this is a great one to work out!!!

gansei

checkpoint.

1. is sus arm activity smooth? (in removing shock)

-> this is my sus relation lecture movie.
http://flvs.daum.net/flvPlayer.swf?vid=1VLjZWBODcw$
But it maden by korean language. you couln't understand.
But just see sus arm activity.

2. shock length of left and right is same?
(also check rear shock length.. this will affect front shock)

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

Hey Guys,

Well after many hours last night and today trying to solve this problem, i really should ave gone to the manual instructions and re-check the sway bar pre-loaders!!

All this time it was the sway bar pre-loaders that cause the front right to lift so much!!

Went to Toy000 house tonight and Rob dude, thanks so much buddy, your a champ and a guy with great experince!!! No wonder why i look upto you man!!!

As for the Forum CREW, what could i do with out the big G4 family, much much help to everyone on here, and i hope we can all note in our books when this probem occurs!!!

As for the rest of the day, i did some more designing on the computr at work, and made me some Sweet decals for the front headlights of the Mazda 6 shell!!!

Heres the video, of the problem fixed, and once again more pics of the car with new healights on

Enjoy
Frankie


http://doylecrash.com.au/video_files/kfactory.avi

razzor

Thats what i meant by cams on the sway bar brackets .Noticed it was almost 90deg out on the pics you posted.good you figured it out
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hmentid=210381