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Old 03-06-2007, 10:00 PM   #4996
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
swaybar can be bended by strong crash.

you can unbend the bended swaybar

But if you unbend the bended swaybar and used it,

it will be bended again more easily.


so if you think that front droop setting is very easily changed,

pls change new swaybar.

ill double check the sway bar tonight, i am sure its right in front of me screaming at me saying OI her is the problem!!!

ill take some photos later

cheers again!
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Old 03-06-2007, 10:06 PM   #4997
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Anybody had problems with this popping out to much causing the clutch to stay engage because this is the problem i have with mines any help will be appreciated.
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Old 03-06-2007, 10:36 PM   #4998
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revo523
Anybody had problems with this popping out to much causing the clutch to stay engage because this is the problem i have with mines any help will be appreciated.

never had this happen before, is everything correct allighned from the manul, just go back do it all again, and make sure that everything sitts well inside snuggly - you will need to take some more photos, if possible in how you set the shoes on the flywheel

I hope we can help, this is the right place for questions!!!
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Old 03-06-2007, 11:32 PM   #4999
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revo523
Hey guys i have a new problem, for some reason my clutch is staying engaged and i try several things with no luck any help will be appreciated.

Could you take some more pics and with it stripped.
The pic above isnt very clear.
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Old 03-06-2007, 11:53 PM   #5000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revo523
Anybody had problems with this popping out to much causing the clutch to stay engage because this is the problem i have with mines any help will be appreciated.
Are those the centrifugal shoes you're using? Those are for an older style G4 clutch, and will not work properly with a UFO clutch. If you have the older style clutch thats ok, but I see the ED style bell you have. I don't know if the bells interchange between the different versions of clutch. Maybe someone whos been running the G4 since before the G4S can help...
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Old 03-07-2007, 12:20 AM   #5001
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Unfortunately they are the old style of clutch shoes and wont work with the new G4s clutch and ED trans' system.

I haven't acually put the two different sets next to each other but if memory servs, the older style are slightly bigger.

That could be where your problem lies.

Hope this helps.

Menace
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Old 03-07-2007, 12:23 AM   #5002
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Wow, I got G4S post #5000 and didn't realize it.........This place is rockin
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Old 03-07-2007, 12:37 AM   #5003
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guys, I'm on just edge of an important decision willing to buy crf 2007 engine.. did you use crf on G4S? ZOOM or AFM.. I'm not sure but I think you use this engine.. Can I use ufo clutch with this engine or I have to buy crf v6 clutch set or upgrade set.. Any ideas??

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Old 03-07-2007, 12:49 AM   #5004
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http://doylecrash.com.au/video_files/g4.avi

Right Click Save As - guys, its a video show casing what the car does with all sway bars in all droop set to 0 Front and Rear also right height set to 5mm front and rear aswell!

I have also freed up the arm on the right side, but i ask you all do just go push a rear corner of ya car and see what the outcome is!!!

Remember as you see the left side of the car is ok, only yhe right front is weird!

Another note the chasis is not tweaked!!!

Hope you can help Cheers
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Old 03-07-2007, 12:50 AM   #5005
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Hey Frankie,
Quick question,
If you leave the sway bar mounts on, hinge pins in, shocks not attached but leave off the front braceing bar (the part which goes accross the front of the sway bar mounts and locates on to the hinge pins)

Do you still have the problem?
If you don't push the hinge pins all the way into the rear holes but keep the sway bar and the front brace bar on, do you still have the problem?

I think I had the problem you have, only I hadn't finnished building the car nor ran it when I could see there was a binding problem.

Ended up reaming bottom arms, sway bar mounts and front braceing bar and also putting small thin shims bewean the bar mounts and the baulkheads. This stopped the pin going too far back into the rear locating hole. I believe on mine these did not line up as they should have??

All seams well now after the work so, maybe.
I don't know how, but I hope this helps in some small way Frankie.

I know you've had alot of advice thrown at you on this. I am sure the family will get you over this hurdle. As Serpentd says, we are all gaining experience here from each others experiences. So thankyou for sharing yours with us.

Best of luck tonight on the problem.

Menace
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Old 03-07-2007, 01:02 AM   #5006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revo523
Anybody had problems with this popping out to much causing the clutch to stay engage because this is the problem i have with mines any help will be appreciated.
The old version of the clutch does has the tendancy to pop out if you don't have the clutch set correctly. Tighten the clutch nut a bit more and decrease the clutch gap and end play. There is an updated version of the silver ring that pushes on the clutch shoes. The updated version is suppose to be a little wider, which prevents the clutch shoes from "sticking" between the flywheel.

You cannot interchange the UFO clutch parts. The UFO clutch bell has more surface area than the old clutch.
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Old 03-07-2007, 01:12 AM   #5007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace
Hey Frankie,
Quick question,
If you leave the sway bar mounts on, hinge pins in, shocks not attached but leave off the front braceing bar (the part which goes accross the front of the sway bar mounts and locates on to the hinge pins)

Do you still have the problem?
If you don't push the hinge pins all the way into the rear holes but keep the sway bar and the front brace bar on, do you still have the problem?

I think I had the problem you have, only I hadn't finnished building the car nor ran it when I could see there was a binding problem.

Ended up reaming bottom arms, sway bar mounts and front braceing bar and also putting small thin shims bewean the bar mounts and the baulkheads. This stopped the pin going too far back into the rear locating hole. I believe on mine these did not line up as they should have??

All seams well now after the work so, maybe.
I don't know how, but I hope this helps in some small way Frankie.

I know you've had alot of advice thrown at you on this. I am sure the family will get you over this hurdle. As Serpentd says, we are all gaining experience here from each others experiences. So thankyou for sharing yours with us.

Best of luck tonight on the problem.

Menace

Oi Menace,

i will check it out in 30mins, as going to Toy000 house to see what the thinks, ill make sure i check what you have written and get back onto you!!!

i never check this before, so it might have been there all along, LOL

Ahh the joys of little gremlins!

Keep posted as this is a great one to work out!!!
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Old 03-07-2007, 01:35 AM   #5008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
http://doylecrash.com.au/video_files/g4.avi

Right Click Save As - guys, its a video show casing what the car does with all sway bars in all droop set to 0 Front and Rear also right height set to 5mm front and rear aswell!

I have also freed up the arm on the right side, but i ask you all do just go push a rear corner of ya car and see what the outcome is!!!

Remember as you see the left side of the car is ok, only yhe right front is weird!

Another note the chasis is not tweaked!!!

Hope you can help Cheers
checkpoint.

1. is sus arm activity smooth? (in removing shock)

-> this is my sus relation lecture movie.
http://flvs.daum.net/flvPlayer.swf?vid=1VLjZWBODcw$
But it maden by korean language. you couln't understand.
But just see sus arm activity.

2. shock length of left and right is same?
(also check rear shock length.. this will affect front shock)
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Old 03-07-2007, 04:53 AM   #5009
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Hey Guys,

Well after many hours last night and today trying to solve this problem, i really should ave gone to the manual instructions and re-check the sway bar pre-loaders!!

All this time it was the sway bar pre-loaders that cause the front right to lift so much!!

Went to Toy000 house tonight and Rob dude, thanks so much buddy, your a champ and a guy with great experince!!! No wonder why i look upto you man!!!

As for the Forum CREW, what could i do with out the big G4 family, much much help to everyone on here, and i hope we can all note in our books when this probem occurs!!!

As for the rest of the day, i did some more designing on the computr at work, and made me some Sweet decals for the front headlights of the Mazda 6 shell!!!

Heres the video, of the problem fixed, and once again more pics of the car with new healights on

Enjoy
Frankie


http://doylecrash.com.au/video_files/kfactory.avi
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Old 03-07-2007, 05:23 AM   #5010
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Thats what i meant by cams on the sway bar brackets .Noticed it was almost 90deg out on the pics you posted.good you figured it out
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...hmentid=210381
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