Originally Posted by afm

After reading some of the latest posts around here, I thought it would be a good idea to repost a compilation of tips given by Darren Johnson and Dennis Richey some time ago. Hope they help.

AFM

SETTING TIPS ON THE G4 S

Tip on shocks:

When assembling the shocks don’t use the thin O-ring (502127), its not required, and if used can sometimes twist the bladder. I superglue the aluminum and plastic shock cap parts together, otherwise the plastic can twist, then twist the bladder. If bladders keep collapsing in on themselves, glue them so they don’t fall into the shocks, also you can try putting some O-rings, or a small piece of fuel tube on the shock shaft, above the plastic shock ball cup. this will stop the piston being pushed up too far when you don’t have a spring on the shock. Don’t fill the shocks up too much, I fill mine to about 1mm below the top of the shock body. Whatever bladder you use, if the shock is too full, or the piston gets pushed too far, bladder will collapse.

Tips on Springs:

When you try softer springs, you will find that you don't need a very big steering angle. Less steering angle means higher speed. The G4 has too low CG and the kit is too light. If you use hard springs up front, you will find that the car doesn't turn good. Also rear traction is no good if you use rear hard springs. Use TM springs 1.3~1.5, it is the only choice.

tm gray 1.9mm 52.0 lb/in
tm orange 1.8mm 41.5 lb/in
tm blue 1.7mm 31.0 lb/in
tm aqua 1.6mm 26.0 lb/in
tm silver kit stock 26.0 lb/in
tm purple 1.5mm 20.0 lb/in
tm pink 1.4mm 17.0 lb/in
tm fuccia 1.3mm 13.5 lb/in
tm green 1.2mm 11.0 lb/in

Tips on Shock oil:

Depends on track conditions and weather. We use a light weight oil all round (30wt or 40wt Associated), it will make a difference (check for conversion to other makes of oil I tried 40wt Schumacher and it was too stiff ).

In more hot weather conditions upping the oil wt will probably be needed.
Increasing the piston shock hole size from stock to 1.2 or 1.3mm Dia. works well, specially at the rear of the car.
90% of the time we don't use the rear bar on the car. We have raced all over this year from low traction parking lot to high traction Toledo, and I think Revelation is the exception early in the morning and late at night.

My opinion is if you have to run a tire 42 shore or harder on the front, remove the rear bar. That’s a good reference. I take off mine the minute I have to go to 42 fronts. usually by then I have loads of front steering I'm trying to get rid off.

Tips about suspension down stop:

low grip track: Front 0 / Rear +2 (start with this)
high grip track: Front +2 / Rear +4 (when your car is too sensitive)
super high grip track: Front +4 / Rear +4 (traction roll)

Front solid axle - Use it on low grip situations, where you need to brake hard for the corners. The hard braking will give you enough weight transfer to turn the car. The front solid axle will give you better acceleration out of the corners. If you don't plan on using a lot of brakes you should not be running a front solid axle.

Front One-Way – Use it on high grip situations. Light braking and fast and coasting corners are for one-ways.

Front differential- Will give you more turn-in for the corners, but you will sacrifice acceleration out of the corners. Of course you can control some of that with heavier differential fluid.
Most of the preferences between front solid axle vs. differential is driving preferences. Easy to drive with a differential is not always faster. I just never liked what you give up on acceleration out of a corner with a differential.

More steering /rotation:
· Narrowing the front track, making the front only 196-7mm. You can take about 2mm off the off the end of the front wishbones to reduce the front track width without any problems (you may need to shorten the end of the pivot balls too, depends which ones you use), it just gives you the option of running a narrow front track width (down to about 195mm), even with 1mm you can notice a difference. Once you have cut the ends off the wishbones then just measure each hub, from a point on the chassis (to get the same width each side). Just reducing the front by 1mm is noticeable so try it before going the full hog as you may well end up with too much steering/rotation.
· Shortening the wheelbase of the car by taking material from the lower rear “A” arms (wishbones) has a positive effect on improving the cars ability to 'rotate'. The rear lowers can be filed from the front by about 2.5mm, and a 2.5 mm spacer put behind the arm on the hinge, that’s how I have always run my car and it just makes the car rotate quicker.
· Using plenty of rear camber (3 to 4 degrees) and the use of overdrive also can improve rear traction.

Originally Posted by G4S'er

Wow A great looking track there Frank. One day I will come down there and run there. The staight away looks long and that should make it fun.

You guys have a fun in your series racing. Make the G4S proud of all of you!

Originally Posted by qcrc

I found a good deal on some MTX4 pivot balls, do they work on the G4S?

Originally Posted by razzor

GTRMx I think your setup mightjust suit the track we running next weekend for the nats.


It will be interesting to try out.

Originally Posted by razzor

The track above is the track we will be running the first round of the national series on.Its in East London ,South Africa about a 8 hour drive from Durban where I live.
This is our club track in Durban ,ist called Southway Raceway and is maintained by our club DMCC ie: Durban Model Car Club.


We host the 3rd round of the national series.

Originally Posted by qcrc

gtrmx- I also use Losi shock oil and Ofna diff oils. I found this link on Team TWF8 page. Hope it can help you with your oil mixing.

http://www.gesilicones.com/gesilwiza...l?SMSESSION=NO

Originally Posted by ickvanovs

anyone using this one?