modellor

I never fast charge. I always keep a fully charged spare set incase its needed. Fast charging them is bad for them and they wont last any length of time before the pack is needing replaced. That is why electrics are so expensive on batteries.

fmolzer

I normally carge my Rx pack at aboput 0.5, this seems to do the trick nicely. The pack does not heat up, nad gets a full charge. I ahve a pack in my old Pro that has been treated liker this for a good 2 race seasons and it has never complained.

ammdrew

iTrader: (25)

running 700 mah nimmhs i have been able to run a high speed and high torque digital servos for 1.5 hour regularly... i always give them a slow bump before a big main, but will qualify practise and short main.. 30 minutes.. no problem on one charge.. i have been doing this for well over two years now.. with varying different servos.. and to just save everyone money get that digital servo off of the throttle... use anolog for the throttle...

but i run a ton of drag brake.. have a 150 oz throttle servo, and the fastest digital servo i can find for my steering.. personal transponder... and easily get 1/5 hours of run time.. over and over and over.. but nimhs are dependant upon the charger you are using.. and need a few charge discharge cycles to come to full capacity... they should at best get a bit warm when charging...

oh i have a preferance to the jr servos.. but the futabas are execllent, just not cost effective.. and i like the ko 's just not much local support for them..

JABRONI

I agree Amdrew, I have never really had a problem at all with the batteries and a good charge before a big main is something that should be standard practice in most cases anyway.
Set it up for a .5 amp or 1.0 and let it go for awhile.
I also personally use JR servos as well as receiver and R-1 Radio.
I have two sets of JR servos (8411's) and have had absoluetly zero problems.
I used to have an M8 and airtronics 357's and 358's, both went to hell quicker than I would have ever imagined.
JR SPCM 330 Reciever is awesome in that you get the protection from radio hits and saves $$$$$$$.

Scott

I havent tried KO so I cant really comment on them.

DSR

I'm planning on putting my receiver in a baloon, to avoid fuel from getting in it. Do I still need double-sided tape on the receiver? If so, where, inside or outside of the baloon?

Also, when you guys install your servos, do you use the plastic pieces from the kit, or do you use some sort of rubber gromet, to prevent vibration?

modellor

If you are using a rubber balloon I would use insulating tape to attach the receiver to the holder. The double sided tape will do but the balloon could tear away and throw the receiver of the car.
But if you are using DST then put it on the outside of the balloon.

I use the plastic parts for holding the steering servo and just use small cable ties for holding the throttle servo. This stops the servo from becoming damaged from the vibrations of the engine.

ammdrew

iTrader: (25)

put the duble sided on both sides of the reciever.. put it in the ballon, and ziptie in place..

paulfitipauldi

Does anybody here,, have try to run 26mm in the rear instead the usual 30mm??

Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

I've tried the 28mm wheels and had good luck with them, but 26mm is a lil' thin for the rears on a big track. My $.02

Pit-racer

iTrader: (4)

You forgot to put in your equation the times when a car bumps or takes a hit,clip a dot, these factors are also what drains juice from a batt. I've had my battery (750 mah) last a good 45min.,but from experience I make sure I charge when I know I've been running over a 1/2 hr. of run time.

PUNISHER

iTrader: (2)

Hey Snake Heads!
Have any of all cleaned the rubber seal bearings on your 705 cars before??

If not it is so easy to pop off those little rubber seals to clean and lube the bearings!!!

Step1. Pop off the rubber seal with an exacto- knife or blade at the edge of the seal (try to be careful with the rubber seal).

Step2. Put bearing in a little cup or cap of aerosol can of cleaner (denature alcohol, motor cleaner or some kind of degreaser).

Step3. Let soak for about a minute and swirl around like a washer machine. Then spinout the lose dirt out of the bearing (this may take a few times to do so).

Step4. Dry up the cleaner out of the bearing and add your lube to your clean bearings (any quality lube will do fine…I use Mega Spin).

Step5. Finally place back the rubber seals on to the bearings (it doesn’t take much simply push down on the rubber seal with you finger nail).


These cars come with awesome parts with quality care your 705 should be in tiptop shape!!

Accord

I just bought the 705 two days ago and would like to know if I can get the quick release tire changer system from the 950 and 835 for my 705? Will it work on the 705, and if so does anyone have the part number for it?

Thanks

modellor

There is no quick release systems for these cars yet. You cant use the one from the 950 or 835 either due to the difference in the hubs. Under current EFRA/ROAR rules it is illegal anyway so you couldnt use it for racing even if you had it custom made.

Accord

Damn .

I don't see why it would be illegal in 200mm but perfectly legal in 235mm, is there any particular reason for this?

ammdrew

iTrader: (25)

200 mm was sloted as a entry level class.. at conception.. even though it has grown past that it still has some remnants of the origin... you can easily run a 1 hour race on a set of foams.. so it a none issue for race aplications, and would only add a new exspense to every car... if rules are not a iisue for you you can put the 235's axels in and run 235 rims and tires on the impulse it will be a bit wide but you will have quick realeases..

quick realeases often become a problem and many racers switch to bolt mounts for 235 and 1/8th to insure they do not loose a tire or develope a wobble...
especially qualifying..

it does have some cool factor but not much go fast factor..