PUNISHER

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like you have the grease for the ball diff and maybe for the trust bearings.........
I use Ronney "Green" Grease from Ron Paris for my ball diff and also some custom grease from a friend for my trust bearings.

Nizee should be able to tell you where to get some of that Ronney Grease for I got it from him!!

OOHH YEAH!! You will also need some one-way lube for your one-ways on the car...I use Serpents.

For Hop-ups there aren't to many of them for this car because this car has the most importants ones already!! (ie. CF side chassis stiffners, Alum. "X" brace, ect.) The only hop-ups this car needs or wants is lighten drive-trans componets....Ti or hollow 2speed shaft, Mid hollow shaft and lighten clutch bell ,ect.

PUNISHER

iTrader: (2)

YUP!!

no problems with the bumper with the Stratus 2.1 body!!

chachi

Ducati998: I was using the Trinity Stratus before the Protoform one. The Trinity body fit too tight, and therefore the bumper had to be trimmed. The Trinity body was far too weak. Since I have changed over to the Protoform body, I haven't had any problems. The Stratus 2.1 fits no problem with the original bumper.

fmolzer: Do the white dish Elligis have to be trimmed down? I tried putting some on the front, but they rubbed the suspension arms.

supra528

thanks alot, is there an online site that sells all the greases and stuff???

InitialD

Any kind of blue thread lock should do. As for grease, I am currently using the Mugen super grease (B0308) and I'm quite happy with it. Very sticky stuff. I use it on my Centax thrust bearings. Should be good on the ball diff too.

I have heard that the best lubes for the ball diff comes from Tamiya. I believe it's called something like anti-wear grease... I've heard that the AE stealth lube is also good.

For the one way lube for the front one way diff and the 2 speed gearbox, the Serpent's one is the best. Part number is 1680. You might also want the cleaning gum (1690) to clean your car. I heard that it is a wonderful stuff...

As for tools, I use the following Hudy (not necessarily) tools;

1.5mm
2.0mm
2.5mm (ball tip)
3.0mm

I believe somebody gave a lit of tools that are recommended for the 705. Yeah, you need some Phillips screw driver too...

You can get the additional Hudy glow plug wrench (107581) which you can use to take your glow plug and as well as use the other end to tighten / loosen the Centax clutch nut. You can also use the glowplug wrench to tighten the aluminum nuts that lock the pivot balls into the knuckles.

With regards to Centax, you will need a flywheel holder when you tighten the clutchnut. I believe Ofna makes one.

When you tighten the pinions on the clutchbell, you need the gear pinion wrench holder 909590. You can also use the Centax clutch housing holding tool 909592 which is needed to hold the clutchbell when you screw the pinions on it. Be warned though that this 909592 tool is made for the Centax I clutchbell so it does not fully align properly when you use it. But still, it was still a useful tool on the Centax II clutchbell.

InitialD

I have not bought any hop ups yet for the car... Just get a set of spurs and pinions. Get the 17T, 22T and the 47T pulleys if you need better acceleration. A set of red and maybe blue springs would also be good... And foams of different shores

What I have listed above are tuning aids. Just spend your money on those things and you should be able to tune your car to any track.

InitialD

I actually still have all my foams I use from day one. I use then till they are very small i.e. 58 to 60 mm rears and keep them till I get a matching front

I think if you knock on the hard objects, you will definitely break the wheels...

Anyway talking about foams, tried Jaco Nitro Shoes (40 front and 40 rear) and I have to say that they provide more traction and wear longer than the other brands I have used The rims are also very durable. The front and rear wheels clear the knuckles very good without any sort of modification to the wheel axles or any addition of spacers. In fact, I can't even find any rubbing marks in the inner side of the rims like what you will find when using Ellegi foams on the Serpent...

Just that if you want to use the Serpent wheel nuts, you need to bore out at least 12 mm diameter for the lock nut flange to secure it properly. The one that comes with the Nitro Shoes will fit lock nuts with 11mm diameter flange.

chachi

InitialD: Can you please explain to me the difference between the Jaco Nitro Shoes? Which ones do you use?

They come in 35, 40, 45, and 50 degrees, an with 0 or 2 degrees offset. What do they mean by 'degrees' and what is offset?

chachi

Just figured out degrees...for some reason towerhobbies is using 'degrees' when referring to shore.

InitialD

Difference? I think they provide better traction for the very little amount of wear...

I just set the car with 40 front and 40 rear and set the car accordingly to the track.

If you have little steering, soften front sway bar, soften the front shocks with more holes or lay down the front shocks a little or even changing to softer springs...

If you are traction rolling, stiffen front sway bars, harden the front shocks and as simply as lowering the front ride height The last method worked wonders when I was traction rolling going into hairpins. Lowering just the front ride height from 6 to 5 mm made a lot of difference... Cornering into the hairpins was very sharp, smooth and yet fast.

chachi

thanks.
what is wheel 'offset'?

InitialD

Oopphs, sorry, I forgot about this one... The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. There can be 3 types of offsets...

Zero Offset
The hub mounting surface is positioned even with the centerline of the wheel.

Positive Offset
The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. The tires would seem to be mounted closer to the chassis. When these type of tires are installed, the track width becomes narrow.

Negative Ofset
The hub mounting surface is toward the back of the wheels centerline. The tires would seem to be mounted wider and more outwards to the bodyshell. This makes the track width wider.

You only need zero offset for the Impulse / 705.

nizee

I do understand your point, assuming you are running 15T, 50T (pinion, spur) and 47T, 22T rear pulleys, 24T, 16T Front pulley, 24 and 18T middle pulleys, you get rear drive train ratio of 2.14 and 2.0 for front. By running a split of 4mm on the front, assuming brand new tires of 63mm, u true them down to 59mm on the front (WOW...what a waste!!), to get and almost even roll out of 28.
My point being, try to use the above set-up for 1 whole day of racing, 3 Qualifying heat, 1 main and practices time before every heat and main (club racing scenario in the US), how many front tires you have to use? It is not really worth the price for a small increment in performance (if any). Well, unless you are a sponsor paid driver, unlike us

-2 on the front? You are transfering to much weight on the rear on trottle, hench more traction on the rear. I tot you guys running small track back there and need more steering? I doubt that helps.

johan

Woohoo! My 705, NovaMega turbo race ms and tp05 arrived today! A beautiful sight!

nizee

I've tried so many grease which i'm doing some tried out on my delicate heli for super smooth drive train for 3D maneuver during competition, like boca, tamiya, kyosho, hpi, etc...can't remember some of it, i found that the Ronnie grease is one of the slicker and smooth grease i know.
You can get 1 at ashford hobby:
http://www.ashfordhobby.com/prod327.htm
of from ron paris website.
I'm not represent or associate to Ron Paris or Ashford Hobby or what so ever.

Just a tips. Depends on the conditions of your track, assuming u are running on packing lot track, you should always check your rear differential. If you feel like sandy when you turn the wheel, its time to re-built your diff, usually about 2~3 full race days, unless you op for the FPS diff. Its already my fifth full race day and my fps diff still running smooth.