paulfitipauldi

ammdrew

iTrader: (25)

okay heres how i look at it, the fastest track i have ever raced on was cinncinnatii, and that track required more brakes than any other track i have ever run.. it has a 1/4 mile run line for the road course and lap times were in the 23-24 secnd range... i did not gear nearly as high as i would of expected from the visuales of the track, and that is were i learned the beauty of lots of brake, and drag brake.... and i learned by watching the guys i was trying to catch.... salvin, pavidas, baker, burch... etc etc.... and ever since then i have used some sort of brake for every track i have gone to.. some more than others but always it was faster to brake.. the fast line is inside on the entry to the corner and to get there as fast as possible while slowing down quickly as possible to turn as fast as possible... and if you allow the car to carve that speed by scrubbibg tires in the corner i can gaurantee you will have some one passing you inside and it wil not be because they are going faster just driving smarter...... and braking.

modellor

I understand what you are saying Ammdrew and I wont argue that that is the fastest way for you. But it is all about different driving styles. I dont use brakes at all on any type of track whether it be flowing or twisty and unless I make a mistake or back off intentionally I have yet to be passed on the inside.

If someone is in close proximity on the inside I will back off earlier and let them through on the inside but I will straightaway cut inside and block pass on the way out of the corner.

I guess its just whatever works best for each driver.

PUNISHER

iTrader: (2)

YUP!
You hit it right on the head........DRIVING STYLES!

markp27

I'm yet to develop my driving style with the 705 - it's early days yet. I'm just going from the experience I had in karting, where I would carry a lot of speed up to a corner, before braking late and hard before the turn-in.
I supose it depends upon if you are a fast-in slow-out or slow-in fast-out person.

Just from my feeling I would prefer to hit the breaks at the end of the straight leading into the first of the very tight hairpins, but this would probably be the only place I would break.

I'm not sure how comparatively large this track is, but the 1:10 lap times are about 16 seconds.
As for gearing, I'm not fully upto speed yet by any means, but already I think I need shorter gears, as I'm just say getting into second gear before I have to slow down on the quickest part of the circuit (do I simply exchange the gears on the bell housing to achieve this?) At the moment I'm just using the standard gears which came with the kit.

I'm going to have to wait for my order from rccarinternational before I can drive again my local dealer is completely out of spare wheels

Thanks for the replies. Mark.

modellor

It really depends on how your gearbox is set up. First, before changing the gears adjust your gearbox to change about 1/3rd the length of the main straight. This will be your starting point. Do a full tank run and record your lap times over the run.

Now, I would drop a tooth on the pinions. Say if you are running the stock 16/19 (I think it is on the Serpent now), then change to 15/18.

Repeat the process, adjusting your gearbox to change at 1/3rd distance if need be and record the results. But this time check whether the car is reaching top RPM before the end of the straight.

If you are still able to reach the end of the straight before the engine peaks then you will have to start working on the spurs. Replace the spurs with the next one up (if you run say 44/47 then change to 45/48), and repeat the process.

In the ideal world you want the car changing gear at approximately 1/3rd the length of the straight (including the previous turn from when you apply full throttle) and you also want the engine to peak just before you come of the throttle at the end of the straight. If, you cant obtain this with just changing the gears you will have to work on the internal gearing.

DSR

What's the best way to achieve more acceleration? Do I increase both my spur gears, and decrease both my pinion gears (clutchbell)? Which combination would I need to get the most out of this car?

I don't race or anything, I pretty much just bash with some friends in parking lots. I'm just looking to get the best gear ratio, as far as acceleration is concerned.

modellor

Yes. You increase the size of the spurs and decrease the size of the pinions

Neil Rabara

Those of you who run the NovaMega .12 RMS (non turbo), what is the normal operating temp and at idle?

DSR

So, what's a good combination?

paulfitipauldi

It's not easy to a person who takes an R/C car for a first time, manage a oneway diff in the front, here in P.R. even the pros can't manage the oneway diff. because they don't suit to his driving Styles!! So we are just guessing here about how Marks drives his car, the only thing what we can do is to tell him what things can be functional to him and what not ,, Maybe he can't manage the oneway already bcuz of his driving style, So why don't you Mark give it a try first , in that huge track the car is suppose to respond very well with the solid diff in the front, and he will be able to manage the brake more efective until he get his skills to other level....

ciao!!!

paulfitipauldi

Well my team mate have one of this engines and he try to keep his temperature between 220 -- 240 degrees, and 210 degrees at idle

paulfitipauldi

this all depends in the track youre running at,, here in P.R. we run in 4 diferent tracks for the championship,, tree of them are shorts with about 110 and 130 feet of straight way, in that tracks i use the stock combination, but i change the rear ball diff, to 47 and the brake pulley to 22, in the side belt the famous 17t pulley, but when i go to the last track , this one have 230 feet of straight way, so i go back to 46 in the rear diff and 23 at the brake pulley, 18t in the side pulley belt, with the stock gears in the clutch bell and spur gears,, so it all depends in the track you're running , this combinations functions to me but maybe not to you!!

ciao!!!

InitialD

Paul, it is far easier to change the pinions than changing the internal ratios back and forth. I suggest when you have already switched to the 17T pulley at the side and the 22T brake pulley and the 47T rear ball diff pulley, leave it as it is. When you want to run on a long straight, just change to larger pulleys.

As an example, the 16T/19T pinions and 49T/4T spurs on a stock 705 internal ratio (which is 2) will give you 6.125 and 4.737 respectively on the first and second gear final drive ratios.

When using the 17T, side pulley, 47T diff pulley and 22T brake pulley (internal ratio is 2.136), you can use 17T/20T with the 49T/45T spurs to give you about the same effect as above with 6.158 and 4.807 final drive ratios respectively.

InitialD

There are two ways to increase acceleration in the 705. First is to change to smaller first gear pinions. Secondly, you can change to a bigger internal drive ratio of the car.

The smallest pinion on the Centax is unfortunately the 15T. To increase acceleration further, you can change the internal ratio from the stock 2 to 2.136 by changing the side pulley from 18T to 17T, brake pulley from 23T to 22T and the rear diff pulley from 46T to 47T.

What I do to increase the acceleration further on the 705 is to use 22T brake pulley but in addition to that, I use a 50T rear diff pulley meant for 1/8 scale Vector and Veteq. For the side pulley, I use a 16T meant for the front pulley instead of using 17T or 18T. This gives me a internal drive ratio of about 2.273 with a very slight overdrive in the front. With a 15T pinion, I can achieve a similar acceleration effect of running a 13T pinion.

Note that there are some mods that you need to do before you can successfully fit these modifications;

1. Sand off the rear plate so that it can turn without rubbing because the 50T diff pulley has a slightly larger diameter.

2. Sand off the right rear bearing block where the shock tower is mounted so that the 50T rear diff does not rub against it.

3. Change the balls of the trust bearing in the ball diff to a large one because the 50T rear diff is thicker and will not accomodate the smaller stock balls. Can't remember the trust bearing balls size or part number but it was the same size for the FPS diff.

4. Use a 69 toothed rear belt (207 mm) instead of the stock 67 toothed one (201 mm).

The rear diff will rub slightly on the Serpent starter box mount but nothing to worry about.

I know that this may seem a lot of hassle but here it is for those interested to increase acceleration out of the 705.