Serpent 705
#3766
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, in your last pictures of the mod of the rear bulkheads to make easy changing and accessing of the rear ball diff, that doesn't look like you bungled up things... Looks very neat !
Ummm, in your last pictures of the mod of the rear bulkheads to make easy changing and accessing of the rear ball diff, that doesn't look like you bungled up things... Looks very neat !
#3767
Tech Fanatic
"one way" or another
ah hmmz.. tot somebody did that in the MTX-3 thread way before you 'started' thinking of doing it or you just 'thought' of it?
I like your feedbacks on the setup I posted. What did you find lacking that was addressed in my setup?
Thats change the handling a lot!!. The front end, now really have full control of car direction especially in chicane but too fast for me.
So I put 90wt(2hole) in front/blue spring and 90wt(4hole)/red spring in back, no bar(F and R), 0 downstop(F) and 8(R), 102.5% overdrive with 2.5mm split.
Very good handling on high traction track( mine is sugar-watered regularly).
Good thing is no more "flipping" around.
As you see, above setup in using your basic setup.
We will try those setup and combining with rear solid axle on next week Futaba Cup.
#3768
ride height
How do you place your 705 to measure the ride height? I mean: do you lay it down very softly or do you just let it fall from a little height or something else?
I have some doubt since the friction on ball of rear upper suspension arms allows different static position: which is the right one I must use?
tia
I have some doubt since the friction on ball of rear upper suspension arms allows different static position: which is the right one I must use?
tia
#3769
Re: ride height
Originally posted by pelos
How do you place your 705 to measure the ride height? I mean: do you lay it down very softly or do you just let it fall from a little height or something else?
I have some doubt since the friction on ball of rear upper suspension arms allows different static position: which is the right one I must use?
tia
How do you place your 705 to measure the ride height? I mean: do you lay it down very softly or do you just let it fall from a little height or something else?
I have some doubt since the friction on ball of rear upper suspension arms allows different static position: which is the right one I must use?
tia
#3770
Re: "one way" or another
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Its just working perfectly untill we do the front upper arm mod.
Thats change the handling a lot!!. The front end, now really have full control of car direction especially in chicane but too fast for me.
Its just working perfectly untill we do the front upper arm mod.
Thats change the handling a lot!!. The front end, now really have full control of car direction especially in chicane but too fast for me.
...never TOO fast though
#3771
Re: ride height
Originally posted by pelos
How do you place your 705 to measure the ride height? I mean: do you lay it down very softly or do you just let it fall from a little height or something else?
How do you place your 705 to measure the ride height? I mean: do you lay it down very softly or do you just let it fall from a little height or something else?
Therefore, the ride height should be taken when the shocks have rebounded and settled after compressing the chassis.
Originally posted by pelos
I have some doubt since the friction on ball of rear upper suspension arms allows different static position: which is the right one I must use?
I have some doubt since the friction on ball of rear upper suspension arms allows different static position: which is the right one I must use?
The arms can be a little tight. What I do is I take them out and use a dremel equipped with a 3 mm drill bit to ream the holes in the arms where the pivot pins go through. That should only get rid of the extra plastic flashes.
Also, your shock pistons need to be smoothen out with a fine grit sandpaper. If you have a dremel, put the shock shafts with the plastic piston assembly on the tip, and turn it lightly on the fine grit sandpaper. The shock piston with the shock shaft should drop in smoothly into the piston cyclinder housing.
#3772
Re: Re: "one way" or another
Originally posted by Proficar403
I tried the front end mod also and I am very pleased with the results!
I tried the front end mod also and I am very pleased with the results!
Well, hope every one here knows that the mod came directly from the Team drivers in Holland (Rene Cornella). I hope there's no confusion that the mod is coming from me. With the way things are going, I might get my ass sued for anything I post here !
#3773
Re: "one way" or another
Originally posted by GoldFinger
So I put 90wt(2hole) in front/blue spring and 90wt(4hole)/red spring in back, no bar(F and R), 0 downstop(F) and 8(R), 102.5% overdrive with 2.5mm split.
So I put 90wt(2hole) in front/blue spring and 90wt(4hole)/red spring in back, no bar(F and R), 0 downstop(F) and 8(R), 102.5% overdrive with 2.5mm split.
Originally posted by GoldFinger
As you see, above setup in using your basic setup.
We will try those setup and combining with rear solid axle on next week Futaba Cup.
As you see, above setup in using your basic setup.
We will try those setup and combining with rear solid axle on next week Futaba Cup.
#3774
Re: Re: ride height
Originally posted by InitialD
The arms can be a little tight. What I do is I take them out and use a dremel equipped with a 3 mm drill bit to ream the holes in the arms where the pivot pins go through. That should only get rid of the extra plastic flashes.
The arms can be a little tight. What I do is I take them out and use a dremel equipped with a 3 mm drill bit to ream the holes in the arms where the pivot pins go through. That should only get rid of the extra plastic flashes.
Originally posted by InitialD
Also, your shock pistons need to be smoothen out with a fine grit sandpaper. If you have a dremel, put the shock shafts with the plastic piston assembly on the tip, and turn it lightly on the fine grit sandpaper. The shock piston with the shock shaft should drop in smoothly into the piston cyclinder housing.
Also, your shock pistons need to be smoothen out with a fine grit sandpaper. If you have a dremel, put the shock shafts with the plastic piston assembly on the tip, and turn it lightly on the fine grit sandpaper. The shock piston with the shock shaft should drop in smoothly into the piston cyclinder housing.
#3775
Re: Re: Re: "one way" or another
Originally posted by InitialD
You succeeded doing that mod? It's pretty difficult to align the holes. I did it with just the help of the dremel with a caliper and it was difficult.
You succeeded doing that mod? It's pretty difficult to align the holes. I did it with just the help of the dremel with a caliper and it was difficult.
#3776
Re: Re: Re: Re: "one way" or another
I used the calipers, also.
#3777
Tech Fanatic
Proficar403 quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
You succeeded doing that mod? It's pretty difficult to align the holes. I did it with just the help of the dremel with a caliper and it was difficult.
I guess I'm better than I thought.
Looks impossible to me if only using a caliper. I use a piece a lexan as a jig. Cut in exact size with front part of front bulkhead. Mark the point and drill the old pin hole with 3mm and 1mm for the new hole.
Then align the jig with bulkhead, make the lower horizontal line as a reference, insert the hinge pin and mark the new hole in bulkhead through 1mm hole in the jig.
You only need 1 pc of jig and flip horizontally for another marking position.
InitialD quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
So I put 90wt(2hole) in front/blue spring and 90wt(4hole)/red spring in back, no bar(F and R), 0 downstop(F) and 8(R), 102.5% overdrive with 2.5mm split.
Woow, what shock oil weight is that? Serpent's?
The trinity one.
quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
As you see, above setup in using your basic setup.
We will try those setup and combining with rear solid axle on next week Futaba Cup.
Rear solid axle?
Yeahhh Just try it last sunday.. working perfectly (high traction track). Maybe can solve your poor initial turn in.
InitialD quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
I tried the front end mod also and I am very pleased with the results!
You succeeded doing that mod? It's pretty difficult to align the holes. I did it with just the help of the dremel with a caliper and it was difficult.
Well, hope every one here knows that the mod came directly from the Team drivers in Holland (Rene Cornella). I hope there's no confusion that the mod is coming from me. With the way things are going, I might get my ass sued for anything I post here !
1st time i saw th emod. is in Per-Ole-Hard setup, but the drawing in his "talk-back" description is not clear enough.
And indeed just like he says " its like driving an electric car in the chicane"
Originally posted by InitialD
You succeeded doing that mod? It's pretty difficult to align the holes. I did it with just the help of the dremel with a caliper and it was difficult.
I guess I'm better than I thought.
Looks impossible to me if only using a caliper. I use a piece a lexan as a jig. Cut in exact size with front part of front bulkhead. Mark the point and drill the old pin hole with 3mm and 1mm for the new hole.
Then align the jig with bulkhead, make the lower horizontal line as a reference, insert the hinge pin and mark the new hole in bulkhead through 1mm hole in the jig.
You only need 1 pc of jig and flip horizontally for another marking position.
InitialD quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
So I put 90wt(2hole) in front/blue spring and 90wt(4hole)/red spring in back, no bar(F and R), 0 downstop(F) and 8(R), 102.5% overdrive with 2.5mm split.
Woow, what shock oil weight is that? Serpent's?
The trinity one.
quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
As you see, above setup in using your basic setup.
We will try those setup and combining with rear solid axle on next week Futaba Cup.
Rear solid axle?
Yeahhh Just try it last sunday.. working perfectly (high traction track). Maybe can solve your poor initial turn in.
InitialD quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
I tried the front end mod also and I am very pleased with the results!
You succeeded doing that mod? It's pretty difficult to align the holes. I did it with just the help of the dremel with a caliper and it was difficult.
Well, hope every one here knows that the mod came directly from the Team drivers in Holland (Rene Cornella). I hope there's no confusion that the mod is coming from me. With the way things are going, I might get my ass sued for anything I post here !
1st time i saw th emod. is in Per-Ole-Hard setup, but the drawing in his "talk-back" description is not clear enough.
And indeed just like he says " its like driving an electric car in the chicane"
#3778
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Looks impossible to me if only using a caliper. I use a piece a lexan as a jig. Cut in exact size with front part of front bulkhead. Mark the point and drill the old pin hole with 3mm and 1mm for the new hole. Then align the jig with bulkhead, make the lower horizontal line as a reference, insert the hinge pin and mark the new hole in bulkhead through 1mm hole in the jig. You only need 1 pc of jig and flip horizontally for another marking position.
Looks impossible to me if only using a caliper. I use a piece a lexan as a jig. Cut in exact size with front part of front bulkhead. Mark the point and drill the old pin hole with 3mm and 1mm for the new hole. Then align the jig with bulkhead, make the lower horizontal line as a reference, insert the hinge pin and mark the new hole in bulkhead through 1mm hole in the jig. You only need 1 pc of jig and flip horizontally for another marking position.
BTW, it's 3 mm inside and 2 mm upwards calculated from the centerlines of the old stock hole to the new hole position.
Originally posted by GoldFinger
The trinity one.
The trinity one.
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Yeahhh Just try it last sunday.. working perfectly (high traction track). Maybe can solve your poor initial turn in.
Yeahhh Just try it last sunday.. working perfectly (high traction track). Maybe can solve your poor initial turn in.
Originally posted by GoldFinger
1st time i saw th emod. is in Per-Ole-Hard setup, but the drawing in his "talk-back" description is not clear enough.
And indeed just like he says " its like driving an electric car in the chicane"
1st time i saw th emod. is in Per-Ole-Hard setup, but the drawing in his "talk-back" description is not clear enough.
And indeed just like he says " its like driving an electric car in the chicane"
#3779
I used the calipers like a compass, "scratching" a couple of arcs in the bulkhead to find the correct point.
...The lexan jig way would have been much easier though
...The lexan jig way would have been much easier though
#3780
Tech Fanatic
I don't think off power steering increases with a solid rear. I think it'll be worse. On power steering out of the corners yes.
But it was Rene Cornela that was the one who initiated the mod as I believe he is one of Serpent's R&D engineers in Holland.
For the front mod. .. sorry not to mention that the 1mm is only hole for marking the new hole in the bulkhead. The distance is still 3mm in + 2mm up.
Hey all..! what would the new 705 will be.. if you are the serpent R&D ?