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Old 10-11-2003, 07:56 PM   #3766
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, in your last pictures of the mod of the rear bulkheads to make easy changing and accessing of the rear ball diff, that doesn't look like you bungled up things... Looks very neat !
Maybe I get lucky sometimes
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Old 10-12-2003, 08:43 PM   #3767
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Default "one way" or another

Quote:
ah hmmz.. tot somebody did that in the MTX-3 thread way before you 'started' thinking of doing it or you just 'thought' of it?
Sorry to hear that.. thats just remind me to what I did when Im still driving an Impulse and right after Serpent is releasing 1 way but not making solid axle yet..


Quote:
I like your feedbacks on the setup I posted. What did you find lacking that was addressed in my setup?
Its just working perfectly untill we do the front upper arm mod.
Thats change the handling a lot!!. The front end, now really have full control of car direction especially in chicane but too fast for me.
So I put 90wt(2hole) in front/blue spring and 90wt(4hole)/red spring in back, no bar(F and R), 0 downstop(F) and 8(R), 102.5% overdrive with 2.5mm split.
Very good handling on high traction track( mine is sugar-watered regularly).
Good thing is no more "flipping" around.

As you see, above setup in using your basic setup.
We will try those setup and combining with rear solid axle on next week Futaba Cup.
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Old 10-13-2003, 01:40 AM   #3768
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Default ride height

How do you place your 705 to measure the ride height? I mean: do you lay it down very softly or do you just let it fall from a little height or something else?
I have some doubt since the friction on ball of rear upper suspension arms allows different static position: which is the right one I must use?
tia
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Old 10-13-2003, 02:04 AM   #3769
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Default Re: ride height

Quote:
Originally posted by pelos
How do you place your 705 to measure the ride height? I mean: do you lay it down very softly or do you just let it fall from a little height or something else?
I have some doubt since the friction on ball of rear upper suspension arms allows different static position: which is the right one I must use?
tia
I always just sit mine on a flat surface and tap the suspension down a couple of times, let go, and make the ride height reading from there.
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Old 10-13-2003, 02:06 AM   #3770
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Default Re: "one way" or another

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger

Its just working perfectly untill we do the front upper arm mod.
Thats change the handling a lot!!. The front end, now really have full control of car direction especially in chicane but too fast for me.
I tried the front end mod also and I am very pleased with the results!

...never TOO fast though
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Old 10-13-2003, 02:06 AM   #3771
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Default Re: ride height

Quote:
Originally posted by pelos
How do you place your 705 to measure the ride height? I mean: do you lay it down very softly or do you just let it fall from a little height or something else?
The correct ride height for the car should be when the car is on the track. This is when the car and shocks are subjected to downforce and all types of forces.

Therefore, the ride height should be taken when the shocks have rebounded and settled after compressing the chassis.

Quote:
Originally posted by pelos
I have some doubt since the friction on ball of rear upper suspension arms allows different static position: which is the right one I must use?
If there is still friction in the arm movements and if the arms are not dropping properly from the shock extension, then you need to take them off and rebuild them so that they move freely.

The arms can be a little tight. What I do is I take them out and use a dremel equipped with a 3 mm drill bit to ream the holes in the arms where the pivot pins go through. That should only get rid of the extra plastic flashes.

Also, your shock pistons need to be smoothen out with a fine grit sandpaper. If you have a dremel, put the shock shafts with the plastic piston assembly on the tip, and turn it lightly on the fine grit sandpaper. The shock piston with the shock shaft should drop in smoothly into the piston cyclinder housing.
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Old 10-13-2003, 02:10 AM   #3772
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Default Re: Re: "one way" or another

Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
I tried the front end mod also and I am very pleased with the results!
You succeeded doing that mod? It's pretty difficult to align the holes. I did it with just the help of the dremel with a caliper and it was difficult.

Well, hope every one here knows that the mod came directly from the Team drivers in Holland (Rene Cornella). I hope there's no confusion that the mod is coming from me. With the way things are going, I might get my ass sued for anything I post here !
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Old 10-13-2003, 02:13 AM   #3773
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Default Re: "one way" or another

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
So I put 90wt(2hole) in front/blue spring and 90wt(4hole)/red spring in back, no bar(F and R), 0 downstop(F) and 8(R), 102.5% overdrive with 2.5mm split.
Woow, what shock oil weight is that? Serpent's?

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
As you see, above setup in using your basic setup.
We will try those setup and combining with rear solid axle on next week Futaba Cup.
Rear solid axle?
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Old 10-13-2003, 02:46 AM   #3774
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Default Re: Re: ride height

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD

The arms can be a little tight. What I do is I take them out and use a dremel equipped with a 3 mm drill bit to ream the holes in the arms where the pivot pins go through. That should only get rid of the extra plastic flashes.
I already used the 3mm drill as you advise, the lower arm can drop under its own weight but the problem for the complete arm is on the pivot ball of the upper arm (see pict). Any advise for it?I will

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD

Also, your shock pistons need to be smoothen out with a fine grit sandpaper. If you have a dremel, put the shock shafts with the plastic piston assembly on the tip, and turn it lightly on the fine grit sandpaper. The shock piston with the shock shaft should drop in smoothly into the piston cyclinder housing.
I will try this also, thanks
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Old 10-13-2003, 09:22 AM   #3775
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Default Re: Re: Re: "one way" or another

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
You succeeded doing that mod? It's pretty difficult to align the holes. I did it with just the help of the dremel with a caliper and it was difficult.
I guess I'm better than I thought.
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Old 10-13-2003, 09:23 AM   #3776
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: "one way" or another

I used the calipers, also.
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Old 10-13-2003, 08:10 PM   #3777
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Proficar403 quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
You succeeded doing that mod? It's pretty difficult to align the holes. I did it with just the help of the dremel with a caliper and it was difficult.



I guess I'm better than I thought.

Looks impossible to me if only using a caliper. I use a piece a lexan as a jig. Cut in exact size with front part of front bulkhead. Mark the point and drill the old pin hole with 3mm and 1mm for the new hole.
Then align the jig with bulkhead, make the lower horizontal line as a reference, insert the hinge pin and mark the new hole in bulkhead through 1mm hole in the jig.
You only need 1 pc of jig and flip horizontally for another marking position.

InitialD quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
So I put 90wt(2hole) in front/blue spring and 90wt(4hole)/red spring in back, no bar(F and R), 0 downstop(F) and 8(R), 102.5% overdrive with 2.5mm split.


Woow, what shock oil weight is that? Serpent's?

The trinity one.

quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
As you see, above setup in using your basic setup.
We will try those setup and combining with rear solid axle on next week Futaba Cup.


Rear solid axle?

Yeahhh Just try it last sunday.. working perfectly (high traction track). Maybe can solve your poor initial turn in.

InitialD quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
I tried the front end mod also and I am very pleased with the results!


You succeeded doing that mod? It's pretty difficult to align the holes. I did it with just the help of the dremel with a caliper and it was difficult.

Well, hope every one here knows that the mod came directly from the Team drivers in Holland (Rene Cornella). I hope there's no confusion that the mod is coming from me. With the way things are going, I might get my ass sued for anything I post here !

1st time i saw th emod. is in Per-Ole-Hard setup, but the drawing in his "talk-back" description is not clear enough.
And indeed just like he says " its like driving an electric car in the chicane"
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Old 10-13-2003, 09:28 PM   #3778
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Looks impossible to me if only using a caliper. I use a piece a lexan as a jig. Cut in exact size with front part of front bulkhead. Mark the point and drill the old pin hole with 3mm and 1mm for the new hole. Then align the jig with bulkhead, make the lower horizontal line as a reference, insert the hinge pin and mark the new hole in bulkhead through 1mm hole in the jig. You only need 1 pc of jig and flip horizontally for another marking position.
That's an excellent idea to use a lexan as a jig to drill the holes. Thanks !

BTW, it's 3 mm inside and 2 mm upwards calculated from the centerlines of the old stock hole to the new hole position.

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
The trinity one.
Does Trinity make 90wt shocks? I guess they are somewhere the same as Serpent's 45 or 50wt shock oils.

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
Yeahhh Just try it last sunday.. working perfectly (high traction track). Maybe can solve your poor initial turn in.
I don't think off power steering increases with a solid rear. I think it'll be worse. On power steering out of the corners yes.

Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger
1st time i saw th emod. is in Per-Ole-Hard setup, but the drawing in his "talk-back" description is not clear enough.
And indeed just like he says " its like driving an electric car in the chicane"
Yes, Per-Ola was one of the guys that used the mod successfully. But it was Rene Cornela that was the one who initiated the mod as I believe he is one of Serpent's R&D engineers in Holland.
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Old 10-13-2003, 11:02 PM   #3779
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I used the calipers like a compass, "scratching" a couple of arcs in the bulkhead to find the correct point.

...The lexan jig way would have been much easier though
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Old 10-13-2003, 11:21 PM   #3780
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Quote:
I don't think off power steering increases with a solid rear. I think it'll be worse. On power steering out of the corners yes.
Add more rear droop, believe me.. it would be there, even with front blue spring like mine. (still with no bar installed and 40F/37R shore)

Quote:
But it was Rene Cornela that was the one who initiated the mod as I believe he is one of Serpent's R&D engineers in Holland.
yes, and he was the one that invented 5th shock piston hole thats working perfectly on 950

For the front mod. .. sorry not to mention that the 1mm is only hole for marking the new hole in the bulkhead. The distance is still 3mm in + 2mm up.

Hey all..! what would the new 705 will be.. if you are the serpent R&D ?
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