Dear HPI

You don't have to crash to break parts. Belts, bearings, connecting rods, Diff's, CVD's, gears.....

Sure crashing helps. Remember speed doesn't kill. It's the sudden stops that do...

JordanC

iTrader: (8)

Very true. If any of you guys ever drove a NEO you could attest to that. When i had one, in one race day it ate all three belts and broke bearings. Thats where the saying of the grenade car came from

TambokGT

I have a friend who drives a NEO . He is so fast.....obviously the NEO was much lighter than the other pro touring cars around.

Im2lazy

And don't forget what strong acceleration and unloaded revving can do too!

Fiream

Okay guys, I took the car out today. I got it to handle better. I figured out that I had no "Droop" in the rear cause I was using one of those spring spacers. All the car was doing was skipping acrossing the pavement. Now the backend stays down... It still kicks out but not as soon as it did before. Now it kicks out at about 1/2-3/4 throttle instead of 1/4 throttle. I 've got to take the spacers out of the front too...Now it's starting to plow... It's an improvement. I'll probably be getting a swaybar set and maybe new "Super Shocks" this week.

Rob

Im2lazy

if you get a swaybar set, you'll have to get rid of the excessive slop in it, otherwise, you'll see no true performance increase.

The super shocks don't do anything, but if you get them with threaded shock bodies, it makes preload adjustments less of a hassle and more minutely adjustable.

One other suggestion, if you don't have any other springs, get some new ones. You may have already heeded this piece of advice already.

Im2lazy

Don't install rear swaybars, bad idea. Install swaybars only in the front to take away through corner and exit steering. Also, you could make the front diff tighter to help pull the car out of the corners. This would make your car easier to drive.

popsracer

Get that ride height down to about 5mm front and back. I think the car has about 8-10mm stock.
Try HPI Yellow #6834 in the rear & HPI Red #6835 in the front for starts.
Don't worry about droop for now, we'll work on that later.

Dear HPI

Fiream, If you do one thing get the springs for $10 bucks. This will settle the car down, and get you closer to proper ride height. The only time to use swaybars is if you are going to run light oil in the shocks and light springs. Swaybars only propose is to stop the weight in your car from shifting side to side, Which will happen if you run light oil. 25wt or less.

PS: the kit uses 30wt.

popsracer

HPI swaybars are just about useless as installed. There is just too much slop at the Arms to be effective.

Shock oil starting points;

45 wt front
40 wt Rear.
With #3 pistons all around.

Im2lazy

The stock swaybars are as me and pops have been saying, are useless until you get rid of the slop. I saw a super nitro with a ride height of about 10 inches and it only kind of activated the swaybars. It doesn't matter what the weight of the shock oil is, it just depends on the amount play in the swaybar system.

The places that cause the play in the swaybar are the mounts in the arm and the swaybar mounts themselves. you have to use ca to fix this up.

The best way to skip all of these problems would be to purchase the swaybar sets available from other companies such as Megatch. It is a blade type so you don't need to change the bar to change the swaybar's resistance. It costs 18 dollars per side, but it is worth it compared to HPI's set. Since all of Megatech's stuff is GPM, you could probably get one from GPM as well.


Do you run in a low traction area? I usually use greens or blacks up front and reds or in the rear (depending on tire choice, track temp and maybe use yellows in back depending on how I'm driving that day ), with 50wt and 45 wt. in the shocks.

Fiream

Hey,
I ran the car again lastnight and it look like i have to pull the shock spacers out of the front too.... I found that pulling the rear ones out the car will now pick up the in most wheel as it's turning either left or right, and it's starting to hop on the outer wheel. I was thinking if I where to ajust chamber in the tires I would beable to use this to my advantage. Could I do this???

Rob

popsracer

Fiream;

Use the "Spring" clips to adjust your ride height. You want about 5mm all around to start with.
The "Stiffer" the shock oil, the MORE responsive the car will feel in the corners. Just keep the front and back within 5wt of each other. You should be Ok with 40-60 wt in the front and 5 wt less in the back, depending on how much overall traction there is.

Im2Lazy;

Does GPM have a Blade type swaybar for the HPI that will fit on the front? I'd like a better FSB for my Super.
I run a similar shock set-up in both of my HPI cars under similar conditions.

Fiream;

Remember, in order of importance: Tires 1st, set-up 2nd.

JordanC

iTrader: (8)

Tyre choice........ 43 - 43..... 36 Degrees Yesterday. Very nasty on the track! Never saw so many motors let go in twenty minutes before

popsracer

I'll be racing my Reflex next weekend on a smooth (sealed) asphalt parking lot track. I usually run Sorex 36R's but with the cooler weather here I am going to try some 32R's
and some Take-Off's 27CS premounteds during practice. I will post and let everyone know how each set worked and the track conditions for that day.

Fiream;
The car is UNbalanced; work on the ride height, change the springs and the shock oil. THEN we will work on the other stuff.

Camber: .0 to .5 neg in front,
.5 to 1.0 neg in the rear.
Zero toe in the front.