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Old 03-23-2018, 06:39 PM
  #481  
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Originally Posted by rcdwj
yes would like to see some pics.
Pm me and I can send you some pictures
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Old 03-30-2018, 04:52 AM
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Need a favor guys. I’m thinking about using the MGt7 2 speed for a custom build. Can anyone measure the distance of the 2 speed spread? Basically the center screw to center screw on the bottom of the chassis!!!! Thank you!!!
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Old 03-30-2018, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 1966ss
Need a favor guys. I’m thinking about using the MGt7 2 speed for a custom build. Can anyone measure the distance of the 2 speed spread? Basically the center screw to center screw on the bottom of the chassis!!!! Thank you!!!
If you don't get an answer in the next 2.5 to 3hrs Brett, I'll be home by then and can get you the measurement's you need. I can't remember off the top of my head. lol.

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Old 03-30-2018, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by British Menace
If you don't get an answer in the next 2.5 to 3hrs Brett, I'll be home by then and can get you the measurement's you need. I can't remember off the top of my head. lol.

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That would be great man thank you!!!
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Old 04-06-2018, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 1966ss
Need a favor guys. I’m thinking about using the MGt7 2 speed for a custom build. Can anyone measure the distance of the 2 speed spread? Basically the center screw to center screw on the bottom of the chassis!!!! Thank you!!!
I still need this if anyone is in the lab and wants to handle there car I’d appreciate it.
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Old 04-09-2018, 07:18 PM
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4 hole bolt pattern, symmetrical. 40mm long, 24mm wide

Originally Posted by 1966ss
I still need this if anyone is in the lab and wants to handle there car I’d appreciate it.
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Old 04-12-2018, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Joel_l
4 hole bolt pattern, symmetrical. 40mm long, 24mm wide
thank you!
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:47 AM
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Hello people!
Has anyone tryed the front and rear drive trains from MBX8 on your MGT7 cars?
Any input will be appreciated.

Best regards,

Gerónimo
Last edited by gmacedo; 04-17-2018 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 04-29-2018, 05:38 PM
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I have sold my cars but still have all the spare parts .... Arms, diffs, springs, gears including the MC2 roll center complete block set. PM on what you need.
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Old 05-21-2018, 03:32 PM
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Is the front arm mod to grind the material down to create more negative camber? Does this apply to the Eco version as well? Building my new car so I’m curious, thanks!
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Old 05-21-2018, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by FatalTundra
Is the front arm mod to grind the material down to create more negative camber? Does this apply to the Eco version as well? Building my new car so I’m curious, thanks!
Not sure which grind you reference. The only one I've heard of is 'taking 2mm material off the front of the upper arm so as to shim it forward to reduce CASTER angle' 😎
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Old 05-21-2018, 07:44 PM
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Default '8' parts on '7'
Originally Posted by gmacedo
Hello people!
Has anyone tryed the front and rear drive trains from MBX8 on your MGT7 cars?
Any input will be appreciated.

Best regards,

Gerónimo
Sorry you haven't got a respnse. I saw an MGT7 at the PROTOFORM Race in Fontana, CA. I had seen your post and tried asking around to see if anyone had tried any of the '8' buggy parts. The guy that tried it showed me how smooth his drivetrain was. He made sure I was aware of how much 'tweaking' and special stuff you have to do. The gear diffs require reconfiguring bolt holes a bit. The chassis pans for 7 and 8 are not mirror images. There are several other things he 'McGyvered' because he is a seasoned 'tinkerer'.
I got within 3/4 lap of him in B Main but he moved out to 2 laps ahead and bumped to A Main where he finished #6 out of the full field of 12. His car worked well and he can drive !!
The one thing I will attempt, is getting the newer '8' arms for the front. My MGT7 ran well for me. I had changed from my Serpent 1.0+ that has been my 'backup' since I parked the Kyosho. An extra round of 'qualifying' was just the situation I needed to find that at the very end of the 2 minute warmup, then 4 minute run, my car 'quit'. Found crank bolt had broken off. I had just got engine changed in Mugen so I could use it and ended up being able to run B Main.
Hope info helps...... (1st in A Main was a Mugen MGT7 with lots of custom tweaks by inventive driver/mechanic)
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Old 05-21-2018, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by scary_jerry
Not sure which grind you reference. The only one I've heard of is 'taking 2mm material off the front of the upper arm so as to shim it forward to reduce CASTER angle' 😎
Thanks for the clarification. I was thinking the description was to grind the end down so the the pivot ball was closer to the arm.
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Old 05-22-2018, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Grenade10
I have sold my cars but still have all the spare parts .... Arms, diffs, springs, gears including the MC2 roll center complete block set. PM on what you need.
Looks like a road trip to the Texas Biggie is in the works. Room for the spare stuff from the Mugen GT. PM me if you are needing any specific items.
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Old 05-22-2018, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by FatalTundra
Is the front arm mod to grind the material down to create more negative camber? Does this apply to the Eco version as well? Building my new car so I’m curious, thanks!
hello, there are two mods you can do with the front arms. One is shave the front of the upper arms and shim forward and also shave the back of the lower arm and shim back all to reduce caster. Two is shaving the ends of the arms where the pivot balls go to narrow the front width of the car, you usually only need to do the bottom
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