Mugen MTX-3
04-20-2005, 08:46 PM
Originally posted by dg8one
hey gentleman81 what part of VA you race?
hey gentleman81 what part of VA you race?
its off of hull st rd, turner road, and chippenham highway
have i raced u there?
04-20-2005, 11:06 PM
Originally posted by gentleman81
so am i wrong about the rear block, i though the C was the block for low traction tracks and A was the block for the high traction tracks?
thanks for the entire boards input on my ???'s
so am i wrong about the rear block, i though the C was the block for low traction tracks and A was the block for the high traction tracks?
thanks for the entire boards input on my ???'s
With the "C" block(higher RC) you get less chassis roll but you can use softer rear springs/oil than you would with the "B" or "A" blocks to get the chassis to roll more for traction. The "A" block(low RC) allows more chassis roll(thus more traction) but you would need stiffer springs/oil to prevent the chassis from rolling too much and too fast. Either way you could make all the blocks work for low traction conditions.
Our tight track gets really hot(130-140 degrees) so traction is at a minimum with our rubber tire class. I tried using the "C" block with all sorts of springs and camber link positions but I couldnt get the rear to hook up. I ended up using the "B" block and got better results.
So, to me it actually depends what type of track you run on and your driving style to determine which block works best. It's best you try all blocks to see which works best with your track and driving style
04-21-2005, 03:19 AM
If you don't change rear spring and damper oil :
Rear A block give you the most rear traction but more body roll during cornering. Suitable for sweeper / high speed corner.
Rear C block give you little bit less of rear traction but less body roll. Suitable for tecnical circuit, medium to low speed corners.
I ended up with B block too as the best of both worlds.
Rear A block give you the most rear traction but more body roll during cornering. Suitable for sweeper / high speed corner.
Rear C block give you little bit less of rear traction but less body roll. Suitable for tecnical circuit, medium to low speed corners.
I ended up with B block too as the best of both worlds.
04-21-2005, 01:43 PM
i will definately give the B block a chance then, i have a technical infield and if i cant stick it in the corners i loose alot of time.
thanks
thanks
04-21-2005, 01:50 PM
just remember, 80% of setup is tires. you may have the geometry and all the setup nailed down, but if you don't have the right tires, you're screwed and will have a hard time driving the car.
04-21-2005, 07:38 PM
Originally posted by Scott Fisher
The only time I have seen the 2 speed lock is when the the 2-speed shoes rotate on the center piece. You need to get the 2 speed assembled correctly and I tighten the center screws and those little balls down as tight as they will get without separating the two speed shoes. If they arent snug then the shoes will rotate on the center and jam the 2 speed.
The only time I have seen the 2 speed lock is when the the 2-speed shoes rotate on the center piece. You need to get the 2 speed assembled correctly and I tighten the center screws and those little balls down as tight as they will get without separating the two speed shoes. If they arent snug then the shoes will rotate on the center and jam the 2 speed.
I don't use the ball anymore for 2 speed. Instead I use longer screws (8mm) and directly tighten all the way down. The shift is awesome.... great punch. The ball setup allows you shifting much softer but sometimes the balls get jammed and ruined the clutch.
anyway u were and still into it right?how d wear and tear for the center portion?coz it is supose to get to certain rpm then d shoe engaged to d spur housing rite?can last for A runs?well actually I tried different way,maybe som of u tried b4 or currently using 1..i used a 4mm ball wic i v to drill bigger bit ofcoz d shoe to fit in..shifting part sounds like ASW said,bit hard but d shoe holder is hardly gets d scratch like d 8mm does?did u make d screw en d at d holder round shape or just leave it like that?
04-21-2005, 07:47 PM
Originally posted by evlhdlts
just remember, 80% of setup is tires. you may have the geometry and all the setup nailed down, but if you don't have the right tires, you're screwed and will have a hard time driving the car.
just remember, 80% of setup is tires. you may have the geometry and all the setup nailed down, but if you don't have the right tires, you're screwed and will have a hard time driving the car.
sound to me the tyre set up to suite up wit track and temperature changes rite?does product caters?
04-21-2005, 08:43 PM
Originally posted by gentleman81
at the track in richmond, VORRA
its off of hull st rd, turner road, and chippenham highway
have i raced u there?
at the track in richmond, VORRA
its off of hull st rd, turner road, and chippenham highway
have i raced u there?
04-21-2005, 08:48 PM
gentleman81
when they gonna have a big race over there? ... trophy race
when they gonna have a big race over there? ... trophy race
04-21-2005, 08:55 PM
they have been talking about a race because hobbytown usa is gonna open a store hear but it might be a small track in another location though. i like the size of our track.
04-22-2005, 09:11 AM
Originally posted by mavicRR
does this mean type of shore/rim from different products?
sound to me the tyre set up to suite up wit track and temperature changes rite?does product caters?
does this mean type of shore/rim from different products?
sound to me the tyre set up to suite up wit track and temperature changes rite?does product caters?
04-22-2005, 07:36 PM
Originally posted by evlhdlts
it's nice to use one brand so you get the consistency of shores. a 40 shore of x brand may be softer than the 40 shore of y brand or vice versa. but tires are very important. some people get so lost in setup and when you ask them, what tires are they using, they say 45's when they are supposed to use 37's for instance.
it's nice to use one brand so you get the consistency of shores. a 40 shore of x brand may be softer than the 40 shore of y brand or vice versa. but tires are very important. some people get so lost in setup and when you ask them, what tires are they using, they say 45's when they are supposed to use 37's for instance.
they can stil put fake shore sticker onto d rims..
thx fren,my test wit d 4mm cameout well,after 10taanks its still worth it,now i dun even nid to touch d set screw,it just d shoe 2.0 screw coz it wears up d shoe..c how it goes..
CHEERS!!
04-22-2005, 07:47 PM
can somebody advice me wat is a good set up for centax?spring/shoe/centrifugal/bell/clearance?
04-22-2005, 08:10 PM
Originally posted by mavicRR
can somebody advice me wat is a good set up for centax?spring/shoe/centrifugal/bell/clearance?
can somebody advice me wat is a good set up for centax?spring/shoe/centrifugal/bell/clearance?
Shoe: '' '' H0753 Gray
Centrifugal: H0766 Light
Bell: H0710 Stock
Spring ADJ. nut: from 0.6 to 1.0mm
Clutch bell clearance: 0.4mm
After each tank of fuel check the clearance, adjust if needed.
04-24-2005, 06:40 PM
Originally posted by ira
Spring: Mugen part# H0767 Silver
Shoe: '' '' H0753 Gray
Centrifugal: H0766 Light
Bell: H0710 Stock
Spring ADJ. nut: from 0.6 to 1.0mm
Clutch bell clearance: 0.4mm
After each tank of fuel check the clearance, adjust if needed.
Spring: Mugen part# H0767 Silver
Shoe: '' '' H0753 Gray
Centrifugal: H0766 Light
Bell: H0710 Stock
Spring ADJ. nut: from 0.6 to 1.0mm
Clutch bell clearance: 0.4mm
After each tank of fuel check the clearance, adjust if needed.
