Re: Re: Re: batteries
 

ah! just checked prices on the cells, the lowest price for a decent 2 cell 1500 is about 30 plus the 30 for the charger and 20 for the regulator I think that i´ll go to a 4 cell pack made with energizer 1 amp aaa cells, total cost 10 bucks, ah less weight and higher running time at .04 sec slower servo loss, big deal and still have a spare battery pack. if properly charged it should last more

Man this battery stuff is way over my head.:confused: :)

too bad mike swauger lost the nationals due to battery failure!

Sway Bars
 

how does it help the handeling

for those who wore the one way hub like me and your lhs does not carry that part, the one way bearing is the ina hf0612, it comes on the one way bearing for pullstart of the hpi, ofna, traxxas and several other engines, just use a press and voila, I used the ones from old wore engines and got myself 3 one way bearings.

what do you like best oneway or front diff?
 

how come there is so hard to find a set-up suitable to run a front diff, all I see out there is a whole bunch of set-up sheets intended to run a front oneway, Does the MTX-3 show its better side running a oneway? I just got a used car that came with no instruction pamphlet nor set-up to go by! :cry:

thanks, O.R.

19t/16t pulley set-up...
 

Can someone please clear up the whole 19t/16t pulley/tire size issue for me. Some locals wear running this set-up and I was curious. There is a debate on what tire size front to rear you should run. Some say 4mm split other say 1.5-2mm split. I was under the impression the reason you would run this set-up was to even out tire wear, but if you are starting out with a split what is the sense. I myself never have suffered from a serious abnormal wear front to rear and always ran the stock pulley set-up, but would like to know the correct answer to this. Anyone with some info it will be appreciated.

Thanks.:tire:

Re: 19t/16t pulley set-up...
 

The conversion makes the front end drive faster than the rear (overdrive). This is effectively a tuning aid to make the car handle better. However, to get the car back to the same drive ratio between front and rear you have to cut the front tires smaller than the rears. By doing this you also get better stability in the corners which lets you run that little bit faster.

The downside we have found with the 16/19 conversion is it is too much of a step and the rear tires wear excessively as a result. We went from 2mm over a whole day to a full set in 30mins just by changing to the 16/19 conversion.

If you are happy with the stock gears and getting good wear rate then I would really just stick with it.

Palmaris,
Thanks for the info. Much appreciated.:)

I wish I could say so!

Re: what do you like best oneway or front diff?
 

Not many people are running the front diff in the Mugen. The Mugen seems to drive better with the one-way or a locked solid axle on the front.

Some of us found that a diff in the front created far too much understeer.

thank you Palmaris Europe I thought it was only me with the understeering issue! I am glad there is always someone willing to help:) :) :)

O.R.

Hi
Just got a MTX-3, after racing a NTC3 for three years I think the MTX3 just looks bulletproof. But I know there is always a weak spot in every car.
I just want to know what do you people suggest me to stock as spare parts, in other words what breaks more often in the MTX-3?
Thanks

I couldnt honestly tell you what breaks easily yet or what part would be weakest (luckily not broke anything yet) but I would definately suggest keeping 2 or 3 rear diffs handy with different weight diff oils. Thats about the only bad thing I find about any car with planetary geared diff. You just never seem to have the right lub in them for a given track condition on the day :( .

I'm using my mtx3 for 2 years now. The only thing that i replaced beside the belts, is the front upper arms and rear lower arms. Its not that its broken, it has small slop. Thats how tough mugen parts are.