I looked at that also, but you will throw the angle off.. The hinge pin will be on an angle, but the blocks are not, so I think it would bind...

On the XRay, they let those pieces rotate so you can do that..



As for my car setup, yes, its pretty much box stock, using either Mugen or HPI tires, 37 shore all the way around, 30mm in rear..

My shocks are in the center holes on both the front and rear, with the car 4.5mm in front, and 5.5mm in rear, with the "A" servo saver.. I'm running 2 deg camber in front and rear, with 0 toe in front, and 2 in rear. I'm still using the stock light blue springs all the way around.. At the moment I'm using a diff in front, but this weekends race is important, so I borrowed a spool.

The track this weekend will most likely be a tight track, but long, and medium to no grip.

My engine is a Mugen X12, and the steering servo is a Futaba 9451 digital..

Thanks for the info all..

I did it by accident and was on the pace. I think they play with it on the 8 scale cars.

I don't know if I had of went quicker had it been right. Maybe

If it is an important race you dont want experiement. Just leave the car as it is if its working.

Profoxcg is right. The driving style/technique of the diff and solid-axle is way different. You wouldn't want to figure out how to drive it on the racing day. But, if you already know how to drive it, driving a solic-axle surely give you an extra edge to the winning side.

best of luck,

rool centers
 

Originally posted by Arushmen
it is possible to combine the back parts of rool to center?
example: A with B, or B with C.
what will be the result?




If you run an (A) block at the back and a (B) in the front it will give you what is called anti-squat. This will cause the car to rotate very hard late in the corner, and give you more traction under acceleration

Re: roll centers
 

Yes, and to round off the idea....
If your car Oversteers you will need to reduce the anti-squat.
If your car Understeers you wil need to increase your anti-squat.

Now these anti-squat settings are of third order in importance to dial in a car, so you use them if nothing else works

The order of adjustment, in terms of importance, tuning a car is more or less like this:
First order:
Tweak
Tyres
Springs
Camber
Ride Height
Second Order:
Droop
Anti-roll bar
Toe
Third order:
Diffs
Shock mount
Shock oils
Caster
Anti-squat
Roll center

AFM

Re: Re: roll centers
 

correct me, but I thought the tires and the ride-height would be ranked among first.:sneaky:

Re: Re: Re: roll centers
 

Well, actually in every order rank i haven't set them in a first to last sequence, but tires and ride-height are in the first order rank.

Eddie what will be your first to last in every order rank???

AFM

Re: Re: Re: Re: roll centers
 

for the punk fish, setting the break should come FIRST !!!!

Re: Re: Re: roll centers
 

Well, there is another way of interpreting the order of adjustments, which are not meant as a first time out of the box order.

Lets say you've set the car with the basic manual set-up, and you wan't to fine tune the car, then i would use the order just as I posted it.

Example: Your car Oversteers entering a corner, I would make these changes in order, one at a time:

1.-check tweak
2.-harder front tires
3.-harder front springs
4.-reduce negative camber
5.-raise front ride height
6.-reduce rear droop
7.-stiffen front roll bar
8.-decrease toe out
9.-lay down shocks
10.-increase shock damping
11.-increase caster
12.-reduce anti-squat
13.-raise front roll center (if car allows it)

AFM

I like your order but I think diffs are very important A diff change can and will make the most dramatic change

AFM you should put out a tuning guide I know I would print it out

I agree with you, diffs will make a dramatic change in the car, but it is related to a combined traction / handling issue.
With the basic manual set up for diffs you're almost on the ball park, and then you concentrate on the issues of my list, and then depending on the track grip / tire combination, you can concentrate on diffs, because if you start with diffs, you can go way out on some important handling issues.

AFM

Thanks, actually there is a complete beginners guide I've posted in our Association's web page www.perurc.com only problem is....... it's in Spanish, and needs to be updated on to a second edition on high end tuning.
Need to find some time to do so, and then think on translating it on to English.
I did it over the past four years of compiling information from the net, and from trial and error at the track.....lot of work man.

AFM

Can i drill holes in the first and second gear housing's to make them lighter. Or is the lightened ones that you buy made out of different material.

Will it stuff them or be o.k

One for the pro's.

Thanks