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I am in the procss of building my Prospec and have assembled the rear end and 2 speed. I do not have wheels on it yet to to test to make sure the belts were moving smoothly i would either spin the back diff or take the middle belt and move that back and forth. when i do this however i hear a clicking noise that seems to be coming from the 2speed. When i assembled it i did not notice anything sticking out or onstruction the gears or bearings. If i move the middle belt slowly it will stop unless i give it more force.
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Yeah I had a noise similar to that at first too. It turned out to be the two speed shoes lighty rubbing one of the three screws on the inside of the 2nd gear housing. Check that they're in all the way.
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Originally posted by gonzoY5 Yeah I had a noise similar to that at first too. It turned out to be the two speed shoes lighty rubbing one of the three screws on the inside of the 2nd gear housing. Check that they're in all the way. |
Yeah man, try to get it ready for Saturday, we'll all be out there. I can help you if you need.
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Mugen X-12
Does anyone know the price of this engine? Has anyone used it yet? Any comments? I'm thinking of getting one for $260. For the same price, should I get Nova Rossi S3, instead?:confused:
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Re: Mugen X-12
Originally posted by RC Dumb Does anyone know the price of this engine? Has anyone used it yet? Any comments? I'm thinking of getting one for $260. For the same price, should I get Nova Rossi S3, instead?:confused: |
Re: Re: Mugen X-12
JP and X12? not JP FX? thought somebody else mod the X12, not JP, please verify.
Originally posted by vadn1 Look on ebay there is a JP mod X12. That is the one you should be looking to buy. |
maxy mod. does x12's for $350, or you can give him a brand new x12 + $80 and he will give u 1 already mod.
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are they still having the problem of not being able to make 5 minutes with the X12?
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ride height???
Originally posted by kt racing A block is for smooth tracks gives you less traction. B block is for semi smooth tracks gives you a little more traction. C block is for ruff tracks gives you the most traction. I usually start with the B block and go from there. keith correct me if i'm wrong.....so this rear block selection has nothing to do with ride height.... height adjustment is by adjusting the shock spring or different shock tower position..right:weird: |
Re: ride height???
Originally posted by rcabj correct me if i'm wrong.....so this rear block selection has nothing to do with ride height.... height adjustment is by adjusting the shock spring or different shock tower position..right:weird: |
I have just started running a JP FX 12 T-O3 S(tock) and although I only have one days experience with it, It made 5 minutes better than my NSR 12 S3. I had fuel still in the tank after all 3 heats last Sunday.
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different carbs, different engines, different fuel comsumptions. Results are inconclusive, since it depends on weather, temp on engine, condition of track, and how you adjust each engine accordingly.
Originally posted by theRED5 I have just started running a JP FX 12 T-O3 S(tock) and although I only have one days experience with it, It made 5 minutes better than my NSR 12 S3. I had fuel still in the tank after all 3 heats last Sunday. |
Guys,
I need to build a front diff for use at a tight track and figure I need the following parts: T0220 Diff Pulley C0228 Diff Gear W/O-Ring T0202 Diff. Cup Joint T0207 Diff. Gasket T0215 Joint Pin (2 x 9.8) C0227 Spacer I have the diff case that came with the kit. Have I forgotton anything? Thanks in advance. :D |
I think you're missing cross shafts or the retaining pins?? Not sure by the descriptions/PN's.
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