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-   -   Mugen MTX-3 (https://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-road/7666-mugen-mtx-3-a.html)

eddiethefish 05-05-2004 12:32 PM

Re: Stabillity
 
Just like what SQUARE has done a long time ago:

http://www.rc-square.com/muge/smr15.jpg


Originally posted by Slotmachine
... try a spring from a writing pen on your brake rod...

eddiethefish 05-05-2004 12:34 PM

Re: Stabillity
 
Great advice, overall. But, I'd like to suggest doing one setting at a time, so this way you'll know what works and what does not.

Setup according to your driving style, not because it was obtained from the fast guy.

Just my big jumbo mumbo quarters!

best,


Originally posted by Slotmachine
Bandeira: You could try the teflon brake pads, they are awsome. Also try a spring from a writing pen on your brake rod , instead of fuel tubing, this will give a fade effect to the brakes. Make sure your car is ballanced from left to right, any difference between the two and the car will not brake straight. Also play around with you rear droop setings, you can make the car more or less satable with this seting, also make sure you try to brake in a straight line when possible, untill you get things figured out in your set up.Toe in in the rear will make the car more stable under braking as well as under excelleration. Good luck! Paul......................................

Bandeira 05-05-2004 01:33 PM

Re: Stabillity
 

Originally posted by Slotmachine
Bandeira: You could try the teflon brake pads, they are awsome. Also try a spring from a writing pen on your brake rod , instead of fuel tubing, this will give a fade effect to the brakes. Make sure your car is ballanced from left to right, any difference between the two and the car will not brake straight. Also play around with you rear droop setings, you can make the car more or less satable with this seting, also make sure you try to brake in a straight line when possible, untill you get things figured out in your set up.Toe in in the rear will make the car more stable under braking as well as under excelleration. Good luck! Paul......................................
I already use the teflon pads...
'bout the pen spring.. I dont like it... I dont like anything that makes the car react differently from what I input thru the radio...
I do correct my left/right differences with two pair of scales I have...

About the Toe-in... If I increase it, the car would have less steering inside the turn... I found out that it is faster to do smoother braking with less toe-in as you get more turning speed, than the opposite...

cheers... thanks for the replies guys...

eddiethefish 05-05-2004 02:18 PM

Re: Re: Stabillity
 
Gotta find out if this works as claimed.


Originally posted by Bandeira
]I found out that it is faster to do smoother braking with less toe-in as you get more turning speed, than the opposite...

fastfred 05-05-2004 05:11 PM

Two-speed issues
 
Hi Guys,

Ran my first nitro race on Sunday in Modesto. Again, I had trouble with my MTX-3's two-speed. It was shifting briefly during the first heat, then stopped shifting. I just cleaned it and ran it again today and its not shifting. Its been a challenge since I got it (the two-speed, not the car), and it was nearly impossible to tell if it was shifting to begin with.

Should I get a new one? Or is there a good aftermarket one that is more reliable?

Thanks,

m

junito yukiyu 05-05-2004 05:31 PM

i believe that there is a kawahara tranni .. check dinbals rc mart..

kreidel 05-05-2004 05:52 PM

Re: Two-speed issues
 

Originally posted by fastfred
Hi Guys,

Ran my first nitro race on Sunday in Modesto. Again, I had trouble with my MTX-3's two-speed. It was shifting briefly during the first heat, then stopped shifting. I just cleaned it and ran it again today and its not shifting. Its been a challenge since I got it (the two-speed, not the car), and it was nearly impossible to tell if it was shifting to begin with.

Should I get a new one? Or is there a good aftermarket one that is more reliable?

Thanks,

m

I seriously doubt there is a need for an aftermarket 2speed. The Mugen's 2 speed is great as long as you know how to set it properly.

challenger 05-05-2004 06:05 PM

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Gurney
 

Originally posted by Slotmachine
GAMB049 A gurney flap is a bend in the top of the wing all the way across it, it is usualy a 90deg. bend leaning forward to catch more air and apply more downforce. It was named after Dan Gurney an Indy car racer that came up with the idea, on real cars they have removeable ones made to diferent sizes.
Paul..............................

I'm interested to try this bended wing on my mtx3.......Can someone assist me on how to do it?. Regard.

fastfred 05-05-2004 07:00 PM

Yes, I've set it properly, and repeatedly.

Seems to lose its settings, or only work sporadically.

Cleaned it thoroughly, cleaned the metal cup it fits into, only to get shifts for about a minute, after that, nothing.

Anyone experience anything similar?

Junito: do you have a link? Google didn't get any hits.

m

DocSafety 05-05-2004 09:16 PM

Tire offset
 
I know this question has been asked here many times before, but I couldn't find it in previous posts, what offset tires do you use with the Mugen?
:tire: :tire: :tire:

snoopy 05-06-2004 01:38 AM

Re: Tire offset
 

Originally posted by DocSafety
I know this question has been asked here many times before, but I couldn't find it in previous posts, what offset tires do you use with the Mugen?
:tire: :tire: :tire:

you use 2 offset

VenomWorldOrder 05-06-2004 02:18 AM

2 speed issues
 
i recently went from a jps3 to a nsrs3.

my two speed settings were not changed.

the PROBLEM is that 3 times in one race day, my 2 speed clutch system got stuck in second. ie did not disengage. why is this?:weird: :confused: :flaming:

the car is 1 year old.

i noticed the small copper cylinders that go over the small two speed screw that adjusts the shift timming was stuck on the shoe on one end. ie; the action of tightening the screw pushed the copper cylinder into one of the shoes. BUT ONLY SLIGHTLY. i had to remove it with some pliers.

ANYONE HAD THESE ISSUES?

or is the motor too powerful?:lol: :cry:

also on the same day i changed motor clutch shoes and spring. i went to a grey shoe with a new spring.

IS THIS THE ISSUE?????!:confused: :confused: :confused: :rolleyes: :mad:

PLEASE PM THE ANSWER IF YOU CAN.

rjl 05-06-2004 03:16 AM

The two speed problem you have is that the gap between the two speed shoes is too small and the cam has over rotated and stripped the thread for the grub screws. You need new shoes and when you next assemble them make sure you set with .5mm gap. If the clutch bell itself is worn this gap may need to be larger.:nod:

VenomWorldOrder 05-06-2004 03:27 AM


Originally posted by rjl
The two speed problem you have is that the gap between the two speed shoes is too small and the cam has over rotated and stripped the thread for the grub screws. You need new shoes and when you next assemble them make sure you set with .5mm gap. If the clutch bell itself is worn this gap may need to be larger.:nod:
geez ok, thanks rjl. when one of the grub screws was screwed out it did come out with some plastic around the threads:rolleyes: the metal cam that the small balls come in contact with and that holds the 2 speed pin also had arounded edge to it were the small ballover rotated:mad:

do you recon i have to put thread lock on the small grub screws or will this ruin the shifting mechanism?

chookgb 05-06-2004 03:36 AM


Originally posted by VenomWorldOrder
geez ok, thanks rjl. when one of the grub screws was screwed out it did come out with some plastic around the threads:rolleyes: the metal cam that the small balls come in contact with and that holds the 2 speed pin also had arounded edge to it were the small ballover rotated:mad:

do you recon i have to put thread lock on the small grub screws or will this ruin the shifting mechanism?

the wear on the metal cam will cause the 2 speed to lock in 2nd as well as shifting problems i had the same problem,i would say it is time for new 2 speed parts and install as per manual no need for loctite


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