Mugen MTX-3
#751
Tech Fanatic
and also the car seems to be more durable i broke 2 jaco wheels in the cold yesterday 40 degrees here and windy no damage to the car but those wheels fell into pieces
#752
Tech Adept
Brake binding
Hi Guys,
I sorted the brakes.
I glued the pads on with rubber glue + used a vice to hold them over night.
The brakes were binding/locked after above.
I sanded the pads but the brakes were still binding.
I then bent the pins VERY slightly & sanded the disc bump stop on the rear top brace untill the brakes moved freely.
This is a minor problem with the MTX3.
By the way . . . . . .
Cricket is for GIRLS
Footy is a BOYS game
If you want to play some real sport try Hurling and Gaelic Football, they are REAL mens sport!!!!!!
All the best
I sorted the brakes.
I glued the pads on with rubber glue + used a vice to hold them over night.
The brakes were binding/locked after above.
I sanded the pads but the brakes were still binding.
I then bent the pins VERY slightly & sanded the disc bump stop on the rear top brace untill the brakes moved freely.
This is a minor problem with the MTX3.
By the way . . . . . .
Cricket is for GIRLS
Footy is a BOYS game
If you want to play some real sport try Hurling and Gaelic Football, they are REAL mens sport!!!!!!
All the best
#753
Tech Fanatic
after i sanded the brakes they still bound slightly but after a minute or two of running they were not binding anymore
#754
Tech Initiate
The proper ways are:
1. cut the excess brake pads material around the holes where the holding pin pass through.
2. Widen the holes a little which cause the binding mainly.
3. Sand the disc pads
4. Sand the front edge of the roll pole to round corner that help.
1. cut the excess brake pads material around the holes where the holding pin pass through.
2. Widen the holes a little which cause the binding mainly.
3. Sand the disc pads
4. Sand the front edge of the roll pole to round corner that help.
#755
Tech Initiate
Cartaman, I did drilled the pistons of the shocks when I drove MTX-2, but I 've found that it make the car less stable so I gave it up, My MTX-3 with the stock shock pistons works really great, I am going to stick with it.
#756
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
Originally posted by chookgb
hi was just wondering where the car feels better over the mtx-2 as my car is fast and its best feature is its stability so what flaws do you see with the mtx-2 that is better on the new car
hi was just wondering where the car feels better over the mtx-2 as my car is fast and its best feature is its stability so what flaws do you see with the mtx-2 that is better on the new car
#757
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (29)
It's transition from left to right is very good, and the ass end is a lot more stable. It's literally a case of trying to set the car up to be more unstable
#758
I still out qualified you Joss.
#759
I know how to assemble the brakes properly
#760
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
Originally posted by rjl
I still out qualified you Joss.
I still out qualified you Joss.
#761
Originally posted by ME-student
i was told by myself that removing one outter brake disc and the middle one will solve this problem! hahaha
who need brakes this thick anyways... ?
i should say who break hard with a one way in front?
i barely use brakes myself.....
i was told by myself that removing one outter brake disc and the middle one will solve this problem! hahaha
who need brakes this thick anyways... ?
i should say who break hard with a one way in front?
i barely use brakes myself.....
After sanding the hell of the pads, bending the hell out of the brake stop posts, and lightly Ca'ing the discs together so there was no gap between them, the brakes still dragged slightly.
Finally I just took your approach ME-student and took the left pad off. I just need enough brakes to stop the thing in the pits anyway. Can't wait to get this thing on a track.
Another note 5 AAA rechargeables, a few deans bars, sauter and a plug = < $20 for a 650 mah pack, and mine took 800 mah after 1 cycle.
#762
Originally posted by jason102276
and also the car seems to be more durable i broke 2 jaco wheels in the cold yesterday 40 degrees here and windy no damage to the car but those wheels fell into pieces
and also the car seems to be more durable i broke 2 jaco wheels in the cold yesterday 40 degrees here and windy no damage to the car but those wheels fell into pieces
The wheels that CRC puts on their foams are VERY tough though. I've ran one pair of fronts for 5 races now.
#763
Originally posted by patelladragger
This car was an absolute pleasure to build...I worked on it a little each day for the past week but total build time was only about 5 hours. It wouldn't have been that long were it not for the friggin brakes. I want the drive-train completely free which is why I'll soon go through and replace all bearings.
After sanding the hell of the pads, bending the hell out of the brake stop posts, and lightly Ca'ing the discs together so there was no gap between them, the brakes still dragged slightly.
Finally I just took your approach ME-student and took the left pad off. I just need enough brakes to stop the thing in the pits anyway. Can't wait to get this thing on a track.
Another note 5 AAA rechargeables, a few deans bars, sauter and a plug = < $20 for a 650 mah pack, and mine took 800 mah after 1 cycle.
This car was an absolute pleasure to build...I worked on it a little each day for the past week but total build time was only about 5 hours. It wouldn't have been that long were it not for the friggin brakes. I want the drive-train completely free which is why I'll soon go through and replace all bearings.
After sanding the hell of the pads, bending the hell out of the brake stop posts, and lightly Ca'ing the discs together so there was no gap between them, the brakes still dragged slightly.
Finally I just took your approach ME-student and took the left pad off. I just need enough brakes to stop the thing in the pits anyway. Can't wait to get this thing on a track.
Another note 5 AAA rechargeables, a few deans bars, sauter and a plug = < $20 for a 650 mah pack, and mine took 800 mah after 1 cycle.
grind down the brake guide on the rear cross member, this should solve your problem.
#764
Grind down the what what?
#765
I think Robbie is talking about the plastic piece that holds down your sway bar and fits over the brake shaft. It has a plastic ridge on the bottom that spaces the left brake pad too close to the disc. By grinding down I'm guessing robbie is saying sand it some or cut it off all together? It seems to me if you cut it off all together you might as well take off the left pad.
I will say if this brake problem turns out to be the only issue on this newly designed car mugen has done an awesome job with R&D and quality control.
I will say if this brake problem turns out to be the only issue on this newly designed car mugen has done an awesome job with R&D and quality control.