ok guys need some help with my new mtx3. Just got done putting it together and I noticed that the drive train is very tight, so i did what the manual said and sanded the brake pads and that helped quite a bit. But when I went to run it for the first time I noticed that I really had to nail the throttle for the wheels to turn, Id say a good half throttle to 3/4. Could this problem be in the clutch? Because this clutch is different than my ntc3 and the manual sucks so I guess I got it toghther right. If Im not mistaken I think it is the same clutch in the mtx2 prospec. So come on guys help me out.

are you comparing drivetrain to ntc3 or another belt driven car

when vehicle is off the gound do the wheels spin sooner than 3/4 throttle

does engine sound loaded when applying throttle or does it sound like clutch isnt engaging

i dont know about centax either when my car finally arrives i will also have to learn so i am no help there but i know you loosen or tighten something try loosening it and checking it again looser should engage sooner

does car roll ok it should roll some when pushed my ntc3 would roll away and my mugen will roll a couple of feet if pushed

The problem lies in your clutch. Although I don't have the mtx-3, the clutch on the mtx-2 is the same. If your having to apply 3/4th throttle than you have to shim your clutch so that there is less horizontal play on the clutch bell. You can do this by either putting small shim(s) behinf the collet where the flywheel mounts or the easier way of putting shimms of where the main screw that holds the clutch assembly together. Mugen should have including some shims but its a good idea to buy some. Also make sure the collet that tightens down on the springs is between 2-2.5 turns tight from when it just starts to thread on.

Hope this helps.

InitialD: the final ratio you mentioned can be achieved even on MTX-2.. i don't think those gears are widely ava in US though..
GPM offers a 42teeth spur

i know because Ah10 on this forum has using them for a long time.

MTX-3 can also get a final of 4.83 by using 22/42 on 2nd gear..

i do not know if this is enough for the track in Ohio, but just want to show that it is possible...:)

I think the gearing issue has been resolved?

Just cannot believe why people can drag on it over and over :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

i have been told the internal ratio was changed slightly and if you look at parts listing for mtx-3 on nitrohouse the size pinions are 15,16,17 first and 19,20,21 second they did used to make a 15 the spur sizes are also smaller so i believe the internal ratio changed and the pinion and spurs changed also to keep the overall numbers about the same as long as a couple more pinions we would be able to adjust to any kind of track layout even one as big as ohio where i have been and it was true the car was maxed out half way down straight and other cars were cruising past but now that im home i am as fast as anyone else

Loosen the nut that keeps teh spring on( I think it is called the retainer nut). Sounds like you have it on too tight. Another thing that will help is to put the clutch spring in a vise and compress it a few times so it is "broken in". It will save you the trouble of going back to adjust the nut.

I read somewhere on the SGrid that Robbie Collins used a 43 tooth gear. That should help solve the issue of the car topping out early.

On another note, hopefully I will be able to pick up a kit Monday. I am a Mugen guy now. The past 3 cars I bought were all Mugen.

Your a Mugen guy NOW? Wait, why say that if you had 3 Mugen's before??? :lol:

Well I just got the cars because I liked them. Inever gave any thought to the fact that they were all Mugens. I didn't intend to keep it in the Mugen tree after I got that first Mugen kit. Until now, I didn't realize that I have been a strictly Mugen customer for the past 1 1/2 years.

What is it with you guys and gearing? I raced the car on my local parking lot club today and found the gearing to be very suitable to the track NTs were designed to be raced on. Next weekend I will race on a 1/8th scale track and with spurs and pinions I will be able to gear correctly.
Personally I would like to see the minimum 1/8 scale track size as being the maximum length for NTs.
I want to race on tracks where setup is as important as top speed!
rjl

I have made the 1st run of my MTX3 , the car is really a speed machine to me, it is very responsive going in the corner, I'm not sure it go any faster on the top speed, but the acceleration was unbeatable, just like you've got some more horse power,

What is the anti-squat adjustment on the rear ? is this another term for something else like droop or bump or rebound :confused:

o-rings
 

Has anyone had a problem with the O-ring on the tank lid not sealing correctly:weird:

The one that came in my kit was actually 1-mm smaller in diameter than the one in my MTX-2, So i used it instead:D

Anti squat refers to the angle of the rear inner hingepin in relation to the chassis horizontally front to back. Level with the chassis means no anti squat and front higher than rear means anti squat. Anti squat reduces the chassis tendancy to squat under acceleration which also reduces weight transfer to the rear.

The MTX-3 probably has different rear hinge pin mounts/rear bulkhead caps to adjust this.