actually me and some friends just looked this up. 600wt theoretically is equivalent to 48wt oil.

One is using the cps rating while many american cars (and serpent) use the WT "weight" rating.

Here is a chart

100 Cps 10 WT
150 Cps 15 WT
200 Cps 20 WT
275 Cps 25 WT
350 Cps 30 WT
425 Cps 35 WT
500 Cps 40 WT

Try here for more info

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/tip/shock.html

I think we already did. There aren't many situations in nitro RC where a heavier car is preferable over a lighter one that I can think of. I'm not an expert by any means so maybe someone else can advise you on this.

ok......thnx

Solid Axial
 

patelladragger, manticore, czotails, kevink2, tekrsq:

came up with two ways to do the solid axial :

1) modify existing gear/diff housing, then make two Al shafts which will sandwich the modified gear in the middle – this way is easier to do, but need to get a brand new diff housing to work on and will be a little heavier.

around $15 for the two shafts plus the cost of the diff housing ($9 + tax…..damn…:flaming: )

2) make spur gear out of delrin and then the two Al shafts – this way has more labor involved but it will be lighter then the first one.

around $45 for the gear and the two shafts.

also grub screw extremist manticore suggested to use grub screw :ha: :ha: to hold the out drives instead of the pins. then i need to cut flat on the out drive shaft.

i am leaning toward the first one, so what do you guys think ?

Re: Solid Axial
 

I'd rather have my car light, so I prefer the latter one. Thank you :sweat:

Re: Re: Solid Axial
 

you are not on the list, so i don't care which one you prefer. now go away :p

Re: Re: Re: Solid Axial
 

mean, mean, mean...:cry:

For some reason, I can't picture what you're talking about in the first example.

I don't know what type of maching capabilities you have, but I was thinking somethng along the lines of the front axle. A single machined piece of aluminum that the stock gear could be bolted to. Simply cut out the center section of the gear so it'll slide over the axle section. The outdrives could either be slid into the ends and secured with grub screws, or machined into the axle as one piece. I have a titanium axle for my MRX-3 made like that. It's incredibly light, very trick, and works very well.

I have the AIP solid axle "adapter". It's pretty trick, but I think someone with the right machines could make something lighter.

Re: Re: Re: Solid Axial
 

Data, it took me a while , but after heraring the way you talk, I just realized who you are. Have you run the car with a solid yet?
:D

Re: Solid Axial
 

Data: I would go for whichever has the least rotating mass. Rocket Ronbo just epoxied his diff together, so it'd be cool it is even less massive than that. If you look at the Kawahara solid for the V-One R or the one for the Yoke GT-4, that's what I would desire most. :)

yeah, those units are trick. But if you could mold the outdrives into the piece that would be even tricker....(wait is that a word?):lol:

is this car too complicated for newbies?

Pictures of my car
 

I am trying to attach a picture... :cry: but nothing.... lets try again

Pictures
 

Pic 1

Pictures
 

Pic 2