This is my rubber setting. While most ppl in singapore run on foam, i for one feel my rubber tires can last longer. Hell I run mostly at night; my sorex 28 on my 414m lasts about a year! Yokomo 139GS about 8 months. 8-10 packs a week. Oh but i'm comparing apples to oranges here anyway.... my EP tourer doesn't put out 1+ HP thank the lord! ;-)

For me, the mtx3 needs to use the other camber link option to lower the rear roll centre. Reduce it as much as you can, get the spacers off the rear hubs too. I wish i'd have more than those 2 links on the shock tower... Also, softer springs in the rear (I use Tamiya White). Stock mugen blue up front. 60wt shock oil front and rear, though the rear could probably do with say 50wt (not tested. it's a pita to change shock oil for this car - 2 screws to take out). Stock shock mounting positions.

Apart from that, 1mm droop up front, 2mm in the rear, front anti roll bar, left one is flat, right is 90 degree up. -2degree camber up front, -3 in the rear. Castor is set to your tastes, I set mine for full castor (clips all the way front). Toe on the front is about 0.5 degree toe out, rear is 2.5 toe in. Oh yeah, rear anti roll bar is off.

Finally, I am running 4WD, 10k diff oil front and rear. Some tires i've tested with this car: Sorex 36 with 037M inserts (i think). These tires generate a bit too much grip, and makes the car somewhat sluggish. I think the sidewall collapses. I have also tried the same setup with 36r/Sorex B medium inserts, 32Rs with some forgotten medium inserts. Seems to work great with them. The Sorex Bs provide the best compromise (imho) with my setup for both response and grip. My next set will probably be 36rs, with Tamiya Black inserts. I love those.

Mark Christopher, sorry if I sound impertinent (I'm very new to nitro r/c setup) - but I am having some problems accepting the roll axis of the mtx 3 and hope you can explain to me why the car is setup as such. Had it for quite awhile, but the monsoon season is only just over!! It handles very good out of the box on foam, but i have some qualms. For one, out of the box the rear roll centre is relatively higher in relation to the front.

This causes quite a bit of camber change in the corner. This brings up one point, the outer tire should be able to maintain near full contact patch, but the inner rear tire is scrubbing. This, i believe contributes to the increased tire wear I am experiencing, as well as the need to run 30mm foams in the rear for more traction (my theory). My rear 30mm 37 shore foams are quite wearing faster, whereas my fronts are still holding up.

Secondly, I am concerned about acceleration - with the high rc in the rear I am forced to run softer springs in the rear to allow more rear roll - and thus upon acceleration, the rear end dips quite a bit. This causes both rear tires to scrub due to the camber gain when accellerating in a straight line. This also means that both the rear tires will experience lesser contact patches upon acceleration - the insides will wear out quicker. I've tried the harder grey springs in the rear to compensate but the increased front roll causes the car to oversteer once i enter a corner. Argh.

I'm also having problems calculating the wheel rates as the shock mounting points are not in line with the suspension arm... and I'm not a math wiz :-( Do you have some wheel rate figures or the formula for out of line shock mounts? Also, what are the spring rates for the mtx3 springs?

Thanks for any assistance, i just love suspension setup :)

A final note, I was told to run less camber in the rear due to the higher rc wlil gain me more camber in the corner, but somehow I am unsucessful during testing when running less camber in the rear. Would appreciate any insight on this.

Regards,
Alvin

i have altered the rear roll center of my car for the rubber clas look back at my photo's and you will see i have cut 5 mm off the the hub pick up piont. the car does have a large rear camber change as you say because it is designed for foam, try the optional inboard mounts.

Hi Alvin!

Expect a lot of wear, tear (and headaches) of your rubber tyres with those land to land missiles that we call 200mm tourings. I'll see you switching to foams soon. :D

Tested too my MTX3 today (thanks to lord to give us one day to virgin run our Christmas gifts). Car is really well out the box, needed to swap the 37's for some 40's and things went better (car had too much grip with 37's and do some pretty traction roll on 180º turns, my body suffered some scratches during the first rounds, but none serious). Needed some further setup.

Tested with an RB 215 engine w/ turbo head and seemed that the second was a little short (before 75% of backstraight I was out of steam and doing some wicked sound).

Like some, I lost during one run a front dogbone (add one to the club) that I've found and reinstalled, going tomorrow for a set of front universals.

Some MRX3 guys were running at my track and carefully examined mine car, some of them had installed some yellow brake pads (they called teflon brake pads), asked what improves over stock and none seemed to give me a right answer, what are those teflon brake pads and how improves over stock? Brake is too powerful and on the first rounds I locked brakes some times.

Found some interesting things at my first runs, need a thicker oil on the diff or solid axle, there's available a solid axle for MTX3? One shop here had one for the MTX2 and seemed to not being compatible.

Gearing rules/guidelines.
 

There's any kind of guideline or rules regarding gearing?

I found that the 16/20 47/43 leaves a 2nd gear a little short and wanting to test with 42T spur.

My question is.... Is possible to mesh correctly all the gear combinations or should I keep some split numbers fixed by the number of tooths? (i.e: 16/20 47/42 or 16/21 47/44).

the teflon pad is supposed to provide smooth braking actions over the stock black/grey pad.

the solid axle for MTX2 does not work with MTX3.

Well, im back at school from break, (i know u all missed me) and have driven the car a few times. when i was at the newly paved parking lot, i noticed how much quicker and smoother the car transitioned from left to right. i also thought that the car accelerated like a bat outta hell compared to the mtx-2. i was going to put the front diff in, but i thought id give the front oneway a try, and i loved it. it was so much fun going through sweepers with this thing! unfortunately i got a little over confident, and had a little to much turn in going through a tight 180 turn and got the car goin backwards. with out front breaks, its hard to get outta trouble in a hury, and the car just kept going backwards straight into the curb. i was going pretty fast, and thought i was going to break quite a bit, but instead only broke the rear right axle. if anybody has an extra............or maybe ill just splurdge and get the universals. lastly.....with a tear in my eye, i retired my mt-12. after 2 years, it lost compression, and rather than getting a new piston and sleeve, i may just get a new engine. im thinking about the rossi pixie black, or the novarossi s3 or s5.......all thoughts are welcome on all these engines, and if anybody knows a place where i can buy these online, please tell me!

Springs
 

For your engine try here www.microtechracing.com

the yellow ones are serpant

Front
Colour Rate Coils Part #

Yellow(Short) 1.4
Purple 1.6 5 H0523
Lt. Blue 1.7 5 H0524
Grey 1.8 5 H0525
White 1.9 5 H0526
Chrome (Stock)1.9 4 J0511



Rear
Colour Rate Coils Part #

Chrome (Stock)1.4 5 J0512
Purple 1.6 6 H0527
Lt. Blue 1.7 6 H0528
Yellow(Long) 1.7
Grey 1.8 6 H0529
White 1.9 6 H0530

corse-r the difference in the teeth on the pinions must be the same as difference in teeth on the spurs

20-16=4 47-43=4

therefore to get a bigger second gear go to 16/21 and 47/42 or 17/21 and 47/43

last year i had used a 15/21 and a 49/43 at regionals that gave me good acceleration and top speed

but as motorman had pointed out to me later a bigger split would cause engine to slow more during the shift but it really felt ok to me

but my finger style 2 speed did fail during the last 5 min of 45 min worth of main after practice and qualifying when the pin that the finger engages slid out and locked in second gear alowing me to finish in third

luckily new car has better 2 speed

team associated used a 6 tooth split during sedan nats

Any news on when a solid rear axel is going to be available for this car, either Mugen or aftermarket?

take it apart and put some blue tack in it. that will lock it up!

there are no unis in aus importer only recieved 10 pair and they are all gone speedtech or microshop have them in stock,if you get stuck i will have some standard dogbones or some mtx-2 ones which will fit i will be at eastern creek on saturday,
p.s novarossi what happened to the comment why do you want to run unis they are not required:lol:

hate to tell u but only the mtx2 bones will fit not the UJ's outer bearing different

Ok. Here with this message I'll attach a file of my local track, has a HUGE (and when I say huge I refer to >200Ft long backstraight - total lenght of the track is about 875Ft long) on which you want to have good time (Barry Baker TQed this summer at 20,05 secs) you need to go balls out and WOT all the backstraight and pray for the gods of grip at the end of, because has a tricky 160º turn left (It's a question of faith, but if fails a concrete wall stops the braves :D ).

The rest of the track is very flowing, with lots of turns, the unique slow zone is on front of the rostrum (two very tight 180º hairpins).

Searching for a gearing combo for this track. I'm open to suggestions.

Track photo....
 

I missed to attach the photo.

when i said mtx-2 ones i was referring to the dogbones not the unis,the dogbones will fit and are a little longer than the mtx-3 ones